neilly
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Lights out in the Snow....
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the 6mm gstuart mentioned.
neilly
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OK,
Yeah, I just went thru it and calculated it out. What you have there is correct.
Not sure why the boomslang uses a 40A fuse, what size fuse does the Landy use for each bulb?
I did not wire the sidelights into the loom I made as I think they are a waste of time, They come on only because I am turning on the driving lights, if that makes sense.
Cheers
Yeah, I just went thru it and calculated it out. What you have there is correct.
Not sure why the boomslang uses a 40A fuse, what size fuse does the Landy use for each bulb?
I did not wire the sidelights into the loom I made as I think they are a waste of time, They come on only because I am turning on the driving lights, if that makes sense.
Cheers
neilly
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Found an example in the rave for the 50th anni model.
Cheers
Cheers
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TBH I haven't looked to see if the boomslang harness incorporates the side lights, but as you say they're not that important in the scheme of things.
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7.5A each. With 15A in that calculator that wire is still well within specification. 
neilly
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7.5A each. With 15A in that calculator that wire is still well within specification.
Looking at my schematic, I used 15A for the fuse going to the relays and then 7,5A for the fuse for the relay to the individual sides of the bulb.
My theory was that when you "flash" the lights both parts of the bulb light up so the amps required will be higher.
Cheers
neilly
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Hence the 40A fuses then.
Even so, for the sake of argument, say high and low beam both pull 5A each. That's a max of 20A if you flash the lights. gives a drop of 3.83% which is just within spec for those infrequent and brief moments.
Yes, you have the basic principles correct but need to use about 13.5/14v as that is what the system will be at with the engine running (it will actually reduce the current flowing through the wire). Cant say I've studied the boosting system but you also need to consider the worst case scenario which is running on dip beam and then holding the headlight flash on. In this case you will have 2 x 55w AND 2 x 60w on at the same time, a total load of 230w which equates to about 17Amps. Another thing to bear in mind is the voltage drop over the cable, they will have chosen a larger gauge cable to reduce these losses, as a consequence of that they will have increased the fuse rating, generally fuses are there to protect wiring and not the end device (the bulbs in this case). If they have to include a fuse they may as well increase the size to save nuisance tripping if someone is running (illegal) 100w mains.
neilly
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neilly
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I agree, which is why I tend to use 12V as it is a worse case scenario with regard to the amps.
Cheers
In reality the difference would be minimal, however it saves you adding the additional wire and getting it to the battery box. The less wire and connections you have the less chance of something going wrong (cable chaffing etc)
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yu can always change the fuse to a 20A or 25A. It wont do any harm, unless it blows often, which it shouldnt.
dont forget - some peeps wire in auxillary lights from the headlight circuit!
firstly wished to apologise as i thought it just said connect to the battery
was just looking at this chart and it comes up 8awg
wondering if it may be better to install this cable, maybe abit of an overkill but then at least it’s an extra bit of protection
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/63-amp-single-core-thin-wall-auto-cable.html
confused, i am now, lol
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not as simple as that. It depends on insulation materiel. Thick wall or thin wall, but a good starting point.
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I think the previous 50A 6mm sq wire you were looking at will be fine. I'm no auto sparky, but picking useful info up from Kwakerman and neilly. If that 50A wire wasn't up to the job they would have said 'don't use that', I'm sure.
Kwakerman's calcs would indicate the 50A wire is ok, even on that 10 foot run. That'll do for me.
cheers, always good to double and triple check , seeing we want things installed and done on our landies 100% , especially when it comes to wiring
there should also be the wiring spec on the boomslang loom
Personally I wouldn't use thinwall unless I had to, it's designed to reduce weight and cable loom thickness as the insulation is thinner than usual (hence the name) and is a lot less robust when it comes to surviving chaffing damage etc. With regards to actual wire gauge, as long as your cable gauge/current rating is on par with (or slightly larger) than the boomslang loom then you shouldn't have any issues.
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