neilly
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Lights out in the Snow....
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with the plastic surround that goes onto the back of the headlight , i need to plug in the boomslang loom bulb connector , so will have to slot the cover in order to get the bulb connector onto the back of the bulb
as the original headlight loom goes through a grommet on that back cover the boomslang loom with its large bulb connector ive got to get it through that plastic cover
if that makes sense ,
neilly
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Not really,
the boomslang connector replaces the std loom connector.
you unplug the std connector plug that into the boomslang loom , connect the boomslang connector to the rear of the bulb, which sticks through the rubber cover in the ctr.
I do not see a need to cut the rubber cover on the back of the headlight.
Cheers
the boomslang connector replaces the std loom connector.
you unplug the std connector plug that into the boomslang loom , connect the boomslang connector to the rear of the bulb, which sticks through the rubber cover in the ctr.
I do not see a need to cut the rubber cover on the back of the headlight.
Cheers
neilly
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thks, picture below is the cover that is fitted , u can see the very small existing hole that the original loom goes through
the pic ur showing would indeed make life considerably easier
neilly
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hi
yes, also thought about maybe cutting the boomslang headlight connector off and then soldering onto the original headlight connector, saving me having to slot that plastic cover and also ensure it remains watertight , as that’s what also concerned me with a slot in the back it won’t be protected from water ingress
when i was going to fit the boomslang i found the wires that go to the battery far too short , have already fitted a fuse box in the battery compartment and got to check what size wire and fusing i need for the boomslang for when i extend the wires , either to the fuse box or directly to the battery if the fuse box isn’t capable of the amperage from the boomslang
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How are they getting away with selling them if they are too short?
neilly
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How are they getting away with selling them if they are too short?
the positive wire from the loom just about reaches the heater matrix under the bonnet, seeing it’s got to under the seat i think about 10 foot would be req by the time it goes through the bulkhead, then down under the carpet and under the seat box
it is indeed the same connector, it’s really the only thing i can think of is having to cut the boomslang headlight connectors off, in order to preserve the integrity of the plastic covers and prevent water ingress
think this is what i need to extend the wire to the battery , 50 amps, but got to double check what the loom rating is first
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/50-amp-single-core-thin-wall-auto-cable.html
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/50-amp-single-core-thin-wall-auto-cable.html
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How much shorter than 10 foot is it?
the boomslang positive wire is around 10 x foot short of reaching the battery under the seat box
neilly
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many thks, funny enough i couldn’t get the old connectors off, as i thought that would be ideal to pull the connectors off but have the small spring clip on the terminals inside the H4 connector
so does indeed look like i will indeed have to cut the H4 connectors off the boomslang , cut the wires as they come through the headlight bowl and solder back onto the boomslang with some heat sleeving , think actually it will be better to use some crimps , as if u wish to remove the headlight u can with using crimps , lol
did look to see if there was a special tool to remove the H4 connector ,
see the fuse rating is 40 amps for the boomslang so will get 50 amp wire
neilly
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don’t worry i don’t understand myself either, lol
instead of soldering i think it would be easier to use crimps so if the complete headlight wants to be removed it can
found that link u sent very helpful, thks again
neilly
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don’t worry i don’t understand myself either, lol
instead of soldering i think it would be easier to use crimps so if the complete headlight wants to be removed it can
found that link u sent very helpful, thks again
Not sure why , but mine does not have that plastic bowl, ( maybe it is just mine) as I pull the h4 connector off and the headlight is removed from the front complete. I assume you mean having the crimps means you can remove the plastic cover as well if ever needed.
Cheers
i don’t either, indeed having the crimps i think is going to be easier , will use some heatshrink as well for the crimp connections
shame the boomslang doesn’t specify in the notes that the positive lead may be short with fenders and series landies , still never mind it is what it is and can easily extend that cable as req
the joys of working on land rovers, lol
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