Spotlight wiring

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Ush

Active Member
Posts
101
Location
Bristol, UK
Quick question..

Bought a light bar for my pre-facelift TD5 today, Don't have any front fog lights on at the moment, but I've noticed that behind the blank switch (where the front fog light switch would be), there is a plug..

Also there are sockets around where the fog lights would be fitted, question is, can I buy a fog light switch (which I understand is momentary action), connect the spots to the plugs under the car and be good to go?

Any help appreciated.. Thanks
 
Quick question..

Bought a light bar for my pre-facelift TD5 today, Don't have any front fog lights on at the moment, but I've noticed that behind the blank switch (where the front fog light switch would be), there is a plug..

Also there are sockets around where the fog lights would be fitted, question is, can I buy a fog light switch (which I understand is momentary action), connect the spots to the plugs under the car and be good to go?

Any help appreciated.. Thanks


Not too difficult to do, but not that straight forward either.

All Discovery II's are fitted with rear fog lights, not all left the factory with front fog lights, but they do usually have the wiring in place for them.

Without front fog lights, the rear fog lamp switch is fitted at the top of the left-hand side of the instrument binnacle.

When front fog lights are fitted, the switch for them is fitted in this top position and the switch for rear fog lights moves down a position.

Because the switch at the top of the row is shaped differently to the other binnacle switches, when you fit a front fog lamp switch, you also have to fit a different shaped rear fog lamp switch in the position below it.

You also need to make sure that the front fog lights relay and fuse are fitted in the engine compartment fuse box, F3 (15A) and R12 in this diagram -

DIIEngineCompartmentFuseBox.jpg




The front fog lights are controlled by the Body Control Unit (BCU) and can be operated ONLY when the starter switch is at position ’II’ and the side or
headlights are also switched on. The fog lights extinguish automatically when the side lights or the starter switch is turned off.

The front fog lights must be enabled in the BCU, using a suitable diagnostics tool plugged in to the OBDII Port.

There are three options for front fog lights in the BCU -
None - The vehicle is not fitted with front fog lamps

No Main - The front fog lamps will operate if the headlamps are on main beam

Main - The front fog lamps will not operate if the headlamps are on main beam

The above 'Non-CLASS' settings are from the Technical Manual in RAVE, but the descriptions for 'Main' and 'No Main' seem to be the wrong way round to me :confused:


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I connected the switch to the 12v to the beam on my headlights, it is a 300 but all I used was a Haynes wiring diagram. I much prefer them on when main beams on. And saves you fumbling around to turn them off if a cars coming the other way.
Personal preference I suppose.
 
I connected the switch to the 12v to the beam on my headlights, it is a 300 but all I used was a Haynes wiring diagram. I much prefer them on when main beams on. And saves you fumbling around to turn them off if a cars coming the other way.
Personal preference I suppose.


The wiring on a DII is totally different to a D1.

On a DII, most of the actual switching is done by the BCU and then, only if certain pre-programmed conditions are true.

Most of the switches switch a signal wire to earth and a lot of them, like the front and rear fog lamp switches, don't latch - they're described as a 'push-push' switch - you push them once to switch on and push them again to switch off.

The D1 is very traditional in most of it's wiring, in that most of the switches actually switch a live to an accessory or function and, therefore, functions can be easily modified in the way you describe.

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Thanks for that fellas..

Was sort of what I was afraid of. ie. having to pay a main stealer to push a button on a laptop.

Might look at doing it the old fashioned way, as in, run the wires myself from a switched live and fit a switch in the dash.. just a shame there isn't an oem latchable switch.

Cheers
 
Thanks for that fellas..

Was sort of what I was afraid of. ie. having to pay a main stealer to push a button on a laptop.

Might look at doing it the old fashioned way, as in, run the wires myself from a switched live and fit a switch in the dash.. just a shame there isn't an oem latchable switch.

Cheers


Aaah, but there is ;)

You can use a DII cruise control switch and change the switch cap for a fog lamp, auxiliary lamp or blank (modified) switch cap.

Unfortunately, the DII cruise control switch costs just over £30 new and also fetches good money 2nd hand.

Urban Panzer gives details on using a modified cruise control switch, here -

www.discovery2.co.uk** Driving / Spot Lamps


and here -

www.discovery2.co.uk / Roof Rack Lights


You can also use modified switches from - DII '6-pack', Defender 2002 ->, Freelander 1.

A cheaper alternative is the Defender Puma heated seat switch - YUF500150LNF, which can have it's switch cap swapped in the same way as the DII cruise control switch.

You would have to modify the keyways on the switch connector and the switch body - pare them off with a sharp knife.

I posted some info on this, here -

Land Rover Owner • View topic - Cruise Control Switches


here -

Land Rover Owner • View topic - Name that switch...


and here -


Wiring for Spotlight switch on TD5 Defender - Australian Land Rover Owners


.
 
Brilliant.. along those lines then,

The serengeti doesn't have a heated front windscreen, meaning I have a blank in the "6 pack", Hazard warning switches are only about £7 (YUG102372) got to be latchable.. realise it won't have the "on-led", but would slide straight in?
 
Brilliant.. along those lines then,

The serengeti doesn't have a heated front windscreen, meaning I have a blank in the "6 pack", Hazard warning switches are only about £7 (YUG102372) got to be latchable.. realise it won't have the "on-led", but would slide straight in?


The Hazard Warning switch is no good for switching accessories, it earths a signal wire from the BCU - on a DII, there's no 'Flasher' unit, the BCU flashes the indicators and the Hazards.


The cheapest switch option is the Puma Defender Heated Seat switch YUF500150LNF -

Land Rover - Switch Assy - Genuine at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

£3.75 ex VAT (£4.50 inc VAT)

YUF500150LNF.jpg




YUF500150LNF is wired as follows -


Pin 1 - Live in from fused supply

Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination (to illuminate Green LED)

Pin 3 - Not used (but is internally connected to Pin 5 - Earth)

Pin 4 - Switched live out to accessory relay - Pin 86

Pin 5 - Earth


The Orange 'tell-tale' LED is connected to the output on Pin 4, so lights-up automatically when the switch is 'on'



The Black connector for this switch is available on eBay -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/landrover-connectors/m.html

$%28KGrHqR,!n8E63WLof76BPDKJkl%292g~~60_12.JPG




If you don't want to mix'n'match different switch bodies and modify switch caps, then the Defender (TD5, 2002 onwards and Puma, 2007 onwards) Auxiliary Front Lamps switch YUG000540LNF is reasonably cheap, has a Lamp symbol on it and it also uses the Black connector available on eBay -

Front Fog Lamp Switch - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

£6.83 ex VAT (£8.20 inc VAT)

YUG000540LNF.jpg




YUG000540LNF latches, but is an earth switch, so has to be wired slightly differently to a normal live switch -


Pin 1 - From Relay Earth - Pin 85

Pin 2 - Live from Dash Illumination (to illuminate Green LED)

Pin 3 - Not Used (but internally connected to Pin 4)

Pin 4 - To Earth

Pin 5 - Live in from Relay output - Pin 87 (to illuminate Orange 'tell-tale' LED)


In the diagram below, the relay's trigger feed (Pin 86) is shown from the Main Beam (to suit Driving or Spot Lamps), but would be taken from the Sidelights or Dipped Beam circuit for Fog Lamps.


YUG000540LNFCircuit.jpg



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hi there i am new to this land rover job, i have bought some driving lamps to fit on ym bull bar, and this came with a wiring kit, relay, fuse etc. i am just wondering if there is a way to get a positive power source under the bonnet as the wire provided will not reach under the passenger seat. many thanks.
 
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