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The orange wire with approx. 3mm bared is the aerial for your fob. When you trip the alarm do the hazards flash but no horn, or doesnt anything work at all. What electrical repairs did you do. Put 'is my td5 immobiliser working?' into the search at the top and you'll find my post of how to put...

Are you using washer fluid. that 'should' prevent the fluid freezing in the first place.

to put alarm into force mode( to allow you to check its functionality) do the following 1; open bonnet 2; wind drivers window down 3; place keys in ignition but dont turn it on 4; hold down bonnet switch for at least 5 secs 5; release bonnet switch & straight away turn ignition on 6...

Jimbo is correct. If it's got abs then it's got tc. maybe someone else can back me up when I say that you can bring it in by pressing the brake pedal 5 times.

if you still have the old harness couldn't you match the wires on the new harness to the spade colours on the old one

are the connector covers different colours. if so, if you were looking directly at the spades at the back of the switch. the white cover goes on at the 2 o'clock position, black to the 5 o'clock, red to the 7 o'clock pos., and the green to the 10 o'clock pos. hope that helps

place your hand on the red relay(wiper),when you flick the intermittent on then off, you should feel the relay click after 4 or 5 seconds.

it's just typical LR. They kept bringing in mods that just knackered up other parts of the vehicle. All that's in there is storage space that's not accessable. If you'd really like to use it you'll have to lower the seats. Slacken the bolts into the seat a couple of turns(DON'T remove them or...

A place thats always worth checking is where the main harness passes down the left side of the engine/gearbox it can sometimes chaff on one of the tunnel screws. You'll have to get underneath to check.

The problem is that these wiper motors have been used for different vehicles ( I think the old Mini's had them as well), plus defenders have had them moved on various occasions thus resulting in slight mods to the length of sweep of the rod. sorry I can't help any more than that.

the reason they wouldn't fit is cos they're the wrong ones. Check the discription. defender ones are slimmer (to fit 1/4" hole) with a wider head. If you ever want to fit one again these are the ones you need. http://www.britrest.com/2009_parts/IMG_1102.JPG The only problems with nuts n...

The tailgate CDL is powered via the roof harness & the rears via the toe-panel harness which is connected to the main harness under the drivers seat (white 3-wired connector mounted under the fusebox, the middle wire being purple & blue, methinks). The fact that front passenger CDL is working...

They're all like that (pumas). Looks sh1t though I must admit

It sounds like you've got an intermitant fault in the earth that supplies the left hand wing electrics. The headlamps/indicators are trying to source another earth feed, and on defenders it's usually through the wiper motor. trying to think about it logically I'm wondering if you were to...

After removing the retaining screw just apply a little pressure to the door lining next to the lock piece your removing and slide it rearwards slightly first, as there is little hook on the back of it that is preventing you from lifting it out.

I suggest you splash out on a new battery for one of the fobs to remove any doubt whether that might be the problem. After fitting new battery, pressing the "lock" button 8 times with the ignition on should relearn it. It sounds like the immobiliser is staying on whilst you're trying to start it...

You've got to check that you've got the main feed to the relay. with the ignition on, but not trying to turn engine over, there should be a live feed at the relay. The fact that the relay is clicking shows that you've got the live from the ignition switch and that the earth feed is also present...

it's called a torsion bar

sorry. the scuttle is the baulkhead. same thing, different name. so to summarise. secure top bolt. s/driver thru bottom plate hole into bottom baulkhead hole & lever down, fit midd. bolt(if you lever down mid bolt hole you're in your other hands way!)

you're only placing the driver through the plate & into the scuttle by about 15mm, NOT all the way through into bracket