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Feck. Thanks Kwakerman. The folk at Paddocks did check the chassis number with me when I ordered. Mines and MA chassis number, they said these were the right ones. Guess I'll call them tomorrow. Just measured the parts that I posted the picture of, the short one is 49mm and the long one 53mm...

Not sure if I'd get a knock, not until the polybush wears down anyway. The polybush itself is a snug fit inside the bracket, so not just the steel tube that touches the bracket.

Ok, but this seems like quite a log way to have to hammer the bracket wider. Its about 4mm difference and the bracket must be 4 to 5 mm thick steel. Old one against new one.

I did something similar when I split charged mine. I used the bigger one of these 4/6/10 WAY 1 POSITIVE BUS IN LED WARNING FUSE BOX/HOLDER 12V/24V STANDARD BLADE | eBay inside the engine bay on the passenger wheel arch inside a sealable kitchen container. I wanted it high up and as water...

I cant fit the little metal insert inside the bracket on the axle. Should I be thinking about grinding off a mm or so? If not, is there a technique I'm missing?

I say fit a new unit also, even if the bullets are fine, they usually corrode where the metal tips touch the bulb, it builds kind of a thin film over the tip but enough to stop current passing. You could try scratching the tips with a small screwdriver, just where it touches the bulb. Even if...

Simplest option would be to replace the switch on that loom with an on-on switch (that one looks like an on-off). You wire the switch common to the exciter of the relay, then one side to the high beam switch output and the other side to a fused live.

Most radios will want a permanent fused live (solid purple in a landy) to keep the internal RAM alive, and a fused IGN to tell it when it can be on without draining the battery (as Station House says, a solid white in a landy). Post a picture of your radio. I can't believe there isn't an...

I have no idea, but I demand pictures immediately. :)

If you really sourced all the parts of a defender and put it together yourself, I would say considerably more than buying a new one. I don't want to shoot your idea down in flames. But if you really want to build yourself up a project, I'd say look for a suitable donor vehicle and save for a...

It does sound like a dodge earth. I.e. the stop and tail bulbs share an earth, sounds like this is back feeding.

If you're talking about things catching fire, it wouldn't matter if it was inside the chassis or not, there will be oxygen there. Welding a chassis, I'd say you should be more worried about burning any wires running inside than waxoyl. That may smoulder and stink, but probably not the largest...

Yes. If you're welding your chassis, chances are you are just plating over holes. In which case getting back to some shiny metal that is thick enough to weld to is all you need. I'd imagine that the heat on nthe inside (if you have good enough penetration) will peel away from the chassis though...

If you need to weld it, scrap off the waxoyl with a scraper back to the paint/metal then skim with a grinder to get a shiny metal face to weld to. It's true that you wont successfully be able to weld through waxoyl. But it's really not difficult to remove from the bits that need welding...

Don't know of any tutorials, just make sure you use the right rating of fuses for each of your new circuits and make doubly sure that the cable you use at every part of the circuit can handle the max current and is in excess of your fuse ratings. I would say that if you're in doubt, once...

Defo not ****part. Got all the parts from motor parts direct (not far from me) rather than the usual internet suppliers, and went for the higher price options that they offered. Can't remember the name but definitely not ****part.

No, honestly, yes that was a pain in the arse, but I've compressed it many times to the point of almost being able to get the circlip in one tiny bit. Spring entirely inside at that point but as I've said, bent up a three way g-clamp trying to get that last couple of millimetres.

Thanks Ed, Yeah, I realised fairly early on that the new spring wouldn't compress like the old one. (put it in the vice to see). Am using the old spring and have abandoned the stupid rubber seal also (as taking off the old kit clearly didn't have one and the new one just gets in the way)...

Quick update. Beating it over an anvil worked a treat. Hit, hit, hit, still seized :mad:, then suddenly, it turns easy :eek::). Much appreciated tip, and one I'll remember for a long time to come. So, within 20 minutes this morning the track rod was back in place with two new ends. One of...

Sorry for the confusion, yes I am. Just thinking out loud really. Currently I have two new track rod ends in their boxes and a track rod that I've managed to get one out but not the other. After your post about you twisting yours, and the fact that I'm really scuffing mine in the vise...