That's going to be a lot of wires

I've got a new dash to fit in my 90

I've also got a mud console and carling switches to put in it

The list of equipment I have fitted or ready to fit but not wired up is

Spotlights
Led bumper lights
Heated seats
Heated mirrors
Heated windscreen
Stereo
CB radio
Clock
USB port

Are there any tutorials where I can pick up some tips as I don't want it to look like a monkey did it or it to burst into flames when I flick the switch

You'll be fitting electric windows next. It's a tratter ffs.

The seats came with heated elements in them that I didn't know were in there, I got the mirrors free with the console , the windscreen rubber wants changing anyway so I looked for a heated screen and won one on eBay for £41, the led lights were in the bumper when I bought it , I did put the spotlights on but according to www.tratteraccessorypolice.co.uk they're ok, I need a radio to drown out the straight through exhaust and the CB so I can make some new friends after my wife kicks me out for buying all this **** and dicking about with that landrover as she likes to put it

Funny thing is if I'm painting the house that's not dicking about but painting wheels is

wack61 said:

I've got a new dash to fit in my 90

I've also got a mud console and carling switches to put in it

The list of equipment I have fitted or ready to fit but not wired up is

Spotlights
Led bumper lights
Heated seats
Heated mirrors
Heated windscreen
Stereo
CB radio
Clock
USB port

Are there any tutorials where I can pick up some tips as I don't want it to look like a monkey did it or it to burst into flames when I flick the switch

Click to expand...

Don't know of any tutorials, just make sure you use the right rating of fuses for each of your new circuits and make doubly sure that the cable you use at every part of the circuit can handle the max current and is in excess of your fuse ratings.

I would say that if you're in doubt, once you've designed your new circuits and where you'll be attaching them to, post the details/circuit diagrams on here to be checked.

I'll be watching this closely.

Have the screen and mirror run off the same switch to save space. And get a Blue Sea fuse box

Put a new fuse box in, I added relays to most as it stops the switch being used for the power. Cutting the console is easy, using a dremmel type tool (mines a B & Q special) with the age old saying measure twice cut once, as for wire I found some on ebay, ended up phoning the fella selling it, he was more than helpful to advise which wire I needed for the correct amps/volts for the lights, and other circuits.
If your bored one day I'm happy to help you fit it, then you can blame some one else if er in doors goes mental, that's what I do!!!!

Here is my dash panel and my fuse box.
I ran a muliti core cable from panel to fuse box. These wires were only for the switching. Ie making and braking the relays.
The relays then powers the circuit ie lights winch electric fan etc etc.
Hope this gives you the idea.





I will mount this fuse box in the rear tub behind my seats. It's not finished yet I'm still putting wires in.

Just remember with a 12 v circuit the current rises so more amps are being pulled.

50 watt lamp at 12 v is 4.16 amps

Were as 50 watts on a 240v circuit is 0.20 amps.

Power = volts x amps
Volts = power divided amps
Amps = power divided volts

Hope any of this helps.
Sorry if you knew all this already.

Here is a picky of it going in. Please ignore the mess it work in progress.

Here is a wired example of the circuit I allowed for above.
50watt lamp fed via main beam control from original loom on vechicle. This circuit allows you to switch lamp off and on depending if you want to have it on when using main beam or not.
Please tell me if anyone doesn't agree with it.
This is how I have done most of my circuits from the switches in my control panel on dash to the grey box full off fuses and relays

If you turn lamp off via the dash switch you install it won't have any effect on the vehicles normal main beam. Should have said that. Sorry.

That looks very well done, and complicated

Good luck mate!! Seems my mrs is the same as yours, if your near the defender your dicking about, if your sat on your arse listening to them talk **** all day your spending time with the family >.< !!

Ive got 2 front lamps to install so not as big a job as yours mate but i think I'm gonna run with that nice diagram MRTs has provided, minus the switch, so when i full beam my lamps are on with full beam.

If you want to wire in a few Acc that only come on with ignition you can tee in to a live from the ignition switch and use this to operate a relay that then switches a live to an aux fuse block with 6,12,20 fuses etc. You can then run all your acc from these fuses.
Remember, the relay needs to be man enough to run enough power to the fusebox, as does thte cable and i'd also put an in line fuse in this feed as well.

IamRobbie said:

Good luck mate!! Seems my mrs is the same as yours, if your near the defender your dicking about, if your sat on your arse listening to them talk **** all day your spending time with the family >.< !!

Click to expand...

Hmm. I seem to have the same problem

Ive got 2 front lamps to install so not as big a job as yours mate but i think I'm gonna run with that nice diagram MRTs has provided, minus the switch, so when i full beam my lamps are on with full beam.

Click to expand...

The switch may come in handy for MOT's. I'm not sure how favourably they would view massive spot lights coming on with the main beam - maybe you can get away with it! Still, as long as you fit a fuse to the new circuit, you can always pull it prior to the test.

This is the reason that I did not connect my rear worklights to the reversing switch as their light output exceeds that permitted for a reversing light.

My tutorial will explain a lot of the things you want to add. I've got most of them plus central locking, dual batteries, TD5 dash, electric windows and a total closure alarm system

If you have questions about any of them that are not covered just ask.

Yeah I was told that MOTs could be a issue! All my lights are isolated through switches. Even if you was just flashing someone out at a junction you would blind them! Lol.
Didn't reply fast tonight been traveling to London for work!!! Just got to the hoilday inn!

MRTs300 said:

Yeah I was told that MOTs could be a issue! All my lights are isolated through switches. Even if you was just flashing someone out at a junction you would blind them! Lol.
Didn't reply fast tonight been traveling to London for work!!! Just got to the hoilday inn!

Click to expand...

Spots should be switched from the high beam live and fogs should be switched from full beam. If you take the switch live wire to the relay from the high beam live through a switch then you can leave the switch on and the act of selecting high beam (or flashing) lights the spots. This is correct for the MOT. Flicking the switch to off reverts the lights to normal.

EDIT: Just noticed your diagram and thats exactly what you've done

cowasaki said:

My tutorial will explain a lot of the things you want to add. I've got most of them plus central locking, dual batteries, TD5 dash, electric windows and a total closure alarm system

If you have questions about any of them that are not covered just ask.

Click to expand...

You shouldn't have posted that, you're too near, you'll wake up and there'll be a 90 and a crate of beer on your front garden

wack61 said:

You shouldn't have posted that, you're too near, you'll wake up and there'll be a 90 and a crate of beer on your front garden

Click to expand...

If you want someone to wire it all up I can do

I've even got the SWR meter for the CB