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Hi My newly aquired 1996 Discovery 300TFi ES is fitted with a radio/cassette player that is badged Land Rover. The originally fitted CD multichanger is hidden under the driver's seat, according to the PO, has not worked since a disc failed to eject. I don't know if the PO managed top get the...

Hi, Try removing hose clamp from brake hose. Don't laugh, it took me a long time to work out why I couldn't get my drums back on. Slacken bleed nipple, then retighten, If that solves the problem, buy a new flexible hose. If it doesn't solve problem, wind adjuster right off, then on again...

Hi, No need to pull half-shaft all way out to remove diff, so no need to split hydraulic system. Difficult bit is driving to the welder with dangly half-shafts. Best not to try this. 602

Hi, I'm hoping that you have a SWB? If so, you can use the diff from almost any SWB Series REAR AXLE, and maybe from an early LWB Series 2. You can also use the FRONT diff from almost any Series SWB or LWB. IE .... thats any diff that can be pulled out of the axle as a complete package. But...

Hi, My advice would be to run it on straight unleaded, no additives, and not LRP. Put the money you save into a jam-jar, and save it up until your valves fail, them buy a lead-free head. I have never met anybody who has HAD to fit a lead-free head. THIS DOES NOT APPLY if you regrind the...

Hi, I thought this was a Land Rover forum, so why the picture of a "pair of Rolls Royce Merlins"?;) Slacken rear most fasteners, remove all other fasteners. Lift front high enough to slide a plank right the way across the tub, sticking out at both sides. Reason? The hardtop can spead and...

Hi, It doesn't matter what you do, air will always be trapped above bleed nipple height in at least one cylinder. I tried to work out ------ if you ran a flexible hose to each cylinder, and fitted bleed nipple in each cylinder too ........ but my brain started to hurt. 602

Hi, 11" front brakes? You can minimise the airpockets in the wheel cylinders by winding the adjusters right OFF, before bleeding. Some people even remove the drum and clamp the pistons in. Don't forget to re-adjust. Early 109s had adjustable shoe steady pins .... to be adjusted every time...

Hi, Please confirm that we are talking about 10" brakes? Thats single leading shoes on front, same as rear. With 11" brakes (twin leading shoes on front) it is necessary to back off the adjusters, let pistons back into the cylinders, to minimise the ait trapped above the bled/outlet port...

Hi, You need to be able to answer YES to one of the following questions. Is the price attractive, taking condition into account? Does it have a long MOT? That way, you get plenty of thinking time. Remember it is TAX EXEMPT. 602

Hi, OK, it can be done ..... if you can weld. As I said, the Salisbury axle is heavy ...... just look at the size of the diff in that photo. The propshaft is 2" (I think) shorter for the heavy duty diff, which means it has to "bend" more, particularly on a SWB. Not a good idea if you...

Hi, Same as a SWB, same as S2. But brakes may be different size, wheel studs may be smaller on early S2, all interchangable. Unless of course, you want the HEAVY DUTY Salisbury axle (can't remove diff as a unit). VERY HEAVY, and not too common, but brakes are much wider ..... possibly 3"...

Hi, Twin leading shoes are impossible to bleed. :) There is a pocket of air trapped above the bleed nipple (or outlet pipe). The trick is to wind the adjusters right off, which allows the pistons to retract fully into the slave cylinders. This reduces the size of the air pockets. Then bleed...

Hi, The problem is said to be that the clutch pedal does not return of it own accord. It should be forced back by the pressure plate springs .... but OK, a fluid leak can stop that happening ..... then there is a secondary means of return - the spring under the dash board. It loks line both...

Hi, Your 11" front brakes have four pistons, same as the 10". Don't be fooled by counting the cylinders. 11" pistons are smaller, so your pedal should feel better. Fitting big cylinders on the rear will make your pedal travel further, and cause them to lock up earlier. Neither is good, so...

Hi, If you can lift the pedal, my first move would be to see if the pedal is stiff on its fulcrum pin. Yes, there should be a spring under the dash, but sometimes the stiffness beats the spring. Obvious answer is a squirt of WD40 ..... but its never worked for me. Remove the pedal box...

Hi, If you examine the front wheel cylinders. you will see that the bleed nipple is on the centre line. This means that there will be a pocket of air above the bleed nipple that you cannot get rid of. Solution is to wind the adjusters right OFF, which allows the pistons to fully retract...

Hi, What you describe is typical of an over adjusted master cylinder push-rod ...... but if you didn't touch it ..... ??? Swollen hose? Yes, but I would expect it to take full effect after the first pump. Sticky pedal? IE - pedal does not dangle loosely. Can't get my mind what effect...

Hi Farrier, If you want to use nails, buy yourself a fibre-glass car. 602

Hi, Er ..... every Sries One that I have owned didn't have a clutch master cylinder, cos they were rod-operated. For Series Two/Three cylinders, go to www.paddockspares.com Or contact the Hillman Imp club (looks same, fits, but smaller bore). 602