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This is why I dread making brake & clutch hoses – it’s not the making (which I like), it’s working out what connector sizes…. For background, I bought the 2 metal pipes/1 rubber hose the part book lists to connect the clutch master to the slave. The third pipe I managed to bend to fit, but then...

I bought myself the 3 pipes/hose (2 metal, 1 rubber) that lead from the clutch master to the clutch slave – I could have had a go at making the metal ones, but part of the reason for the purchase was that the shape would inform me the route the pipe needs to take… (other reasons are that they...

I have just attached my gearbox back to the engine, and this has highlighted a couple of issues with the routing of the exhaust. I can get it to sneak past the gearbox mount, but it is a bit close Where the front exhaust section is joined to the middle section, a corner of the triangular...

When I dissembled my old slave cylinder there was no circlip behind the seal. There is no recess in the wall of the cylinder that I have seen on master cylinders for circlips. My cylinder seal kit included the seals and also a (mostly) C-shaped circlip. I had a go at inserting the circlip...

I know there is a pin that goes through the end of the lower shaft (in the red box). But I am wondering if there is also a pin that goes through the middle of the spacer and trunnion at the top of the clutch pedal (inside the blue boxes). My pedal is covered in paint on the outside so it’s not...

As per an earlier thread, i have got the rebuilt engine sitting on the bare chassis and running. Sounds OK. Just in the process of sorting out the cooling system at the moment. My plan is to then stick the rebuilt gearbox on the back of the engine and test it. I had a dry run of installing the...

I can’t work out where the bracket should go and/or whether I have the wrong fan belt. I was thinking that the bracket went between the top bracket of the alternator and a bolt fixed to the bolt hole just to the left of that point. But as you can see in the photos, the gap is significantly less...

Just trying to get my newly rebuilt engine running. I found that when i turned the ignition switch to position 3, the starter motor kicks in, engine starts and runs, until i release the key on the switch and it returns to position 2. Initially, I assumed this was fuel/carb related issue, but I...

i am trying replace my worn out battery and am not sure what physical size i can get. The easy bit is that it is 175mm wide (that seems pretty standard and should fit) and it could be up to 300mm long - most batteries are either far too long to fit this or are significantly less (e.g. 260mm...

I am fitting the lock wire to the bolts that keep the tappet holders in place. Its a bit fiddly. I can't find anywhere which suggests the best approach. Should i run a piece of wire across all the bolts (which will be really difficult to thread)? Should i run a piece of wire across pairs of...

I am having trouble trying to locate the distributor so that the rotor arm turns properly. From what I can tell, I have to: Insert the coupling (549611) and place that correctly with its offset teeth sitting nicely in the driver below. Insert the distributor so that the dog on the end with its...

I am inching towards having a go at starting the engine, but not there yet. The engine has been re-bored, honed, new bearings, seals, rebuilt head etc. I have installed it on the chassis, but i have not installed the gearbox yet. I connected up the starter motor, ignition switch, battery and...

I can't work out where this is supposed to go - i took it off the car but my photos don't show me where from. Can someone help. (Need to track down the banjo bolts which i have put down somewhere). Thanks

My plan was to install the newly rebuilt engine on the bare chassis, add the ancillaries, test the engine, and then sort out clutch and install the gearbox. Today I have got the engine on the chassis, sitting on the two front engine mounts. At the rear of the engine, I have the lip of the sump...

Following the Haynes instructions, I cleaned and lubricated the bushes and the camshaft and carefully installed it. I then fitted the camshaft thrust plate. The manual says i need to check the camshaft end float. I am a bit confused. At the moment, the camshaft cannot move in one longitudinal...

I saw on YouTube brittanicca restorations that he removed the metal ring oil seal cover that (on his engine) had been attached with machine screws: mine has the original rivets holding it on. do I need to remove this cover, when I can push the oil seal in from behind and leave the cover as it...

Having given up on the cork seals for the Crankshaft Cap seal, i am going to take the advice and use RTV. Brittanicca uses Loctite 5580. I would be happy to get this but it takes a few days postage. If there something on Amazon Prime that works as well that i can get in a day or so?

i know the real challenge is fitting the bearing caps in the block, but before i get to that stage, i need to fit my new cork t seals in their slots. As you can see the cork is much wider than the slot. I have soaked them overnight in oil, and also cut a very small chamfer to try and help them...

I can't work out how to install this. Obviously, there is a clip-sized cut-out on the ball in the middle of the lever, but when i push the clip into the cut-out, it makes a leap for freedom and hides under the gearbox. I have tried moving the ball up into position in the round-hole bracket with...

New chassis is now ready for installation of the rebuilt engine and the gearbox. I was thinking i would install the engine, all the ancillaries and see if i can get the engine running nicely, and then i would install the clutch / gearbox. However, i have seen on some posts, it is best to...