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See if you can get a nanocom/hawkeye plugged in and see if there are any faults. Post up if there are any.... To see tach, air conditioning, and ABS faults are normal (if you don't have any of those). Check the red plug to the ECU (under the drivers seat), for oil. If there's oil in it...

You won't need wide arches with 265/75. I have those on my 110, and they fit well under the stock arches.

Check safety devices, out of the UK. They have exploded views of their cages. Sorry can't help with measurements.

If my wife thought the same, I would have saved a lot of money.....

It is only the bellhousing, but every little bit helps.

Ordering from the US.... I've only had the best service from lrdirect.com and lrseries.com. both have excellent service and choice for parts, as when you look 'em up, they will list a "+&$%"part or an oem, and a genuine. Lrdirect, will always get my search traffic... All the parts searched...

I've used "peel-n-seal" from Amazon, throughout the 110. It's helped considerably. Similar to dynamat, but a fraction of the cost. I also used the following: http://www.lobucrod.com/ it's closed cell foam, with reflective material on both sides. Great pricing too. The above with this...

Check out Mulgo seat rails. I'm 6'2" and the Mulgo rails move the seat back, but don't raise it... Absolutely brilliant. Also, the red booster is a great piece of kit. While I don't have one, I used to have a Series, that I added a booster to the clutch and brakes. It was a night and day...

Is your speedo working? I know the fuel gauge is tied to the sender via the speedo. My fuel gauge started working again, once I changed my speedo (mileage increased, but wouldn't show speed). Possibly a wire break somewhere? Does the chassis harness, go through the chassis? Or was it...

but the retrim kits are a fraction of the newer seats!

For the breather, you could fit a Provent 200. That will filter the oil out. There's plenty on the interwebs regarding td5s and the Provent... I'm in the process of fitting one in the next few weeks.

Could be coming from the breather, as well.

Check your drive flanges. Also check the slip-joint on the driveshaft. Can you identify if the sound is coming from the front or back?

For the cost, the egr removal is a must.... Mine felt a bit more alive doing that, with a default fuel map. With respect to the MAF.... When you disconnect it, the ecu uses default values for that sensor's input. It won't revert to a default map. Those are two different things. I'm just...

Just recently have been working on this. The window is held to the winding mechanism via two clips at the bottom of the window. If you wind the window up and down with the panel off; you'll see the two white-ish clips. The manual says to wedge the window in place (half rolled down) so that...

Could be from the rocker cover (highly likely); or even the FPR. The gaskets occasionally need replacing on both and could give you a wet clutch.

You'd be safe to remove the wade plugs. Either the two square-head or the one in the bottom right of the above picture (on the bell housing, believe it's a 13 or 14mm). If oil pours out of either of them, you'll need a new rear crank seal. Or if you have an inspection camera, poke it in the...

Thanks for posting this; gives me the motivation to do mine! About how long do you think it took per side? Does anyone know if you can reverse the seal so the filler strip goes on the inside of the window?

I bought one from him. Had a failed fuel pump and speedo, right off the boat. He sent me the parts and I replaced them. It also had a slow leak in one of the tires. Overall, it was in great shape and he was a good guy to deal with. There were some minor issues here and there, but it's an old...

They are spendy... I'm not a fan, but they are pretty cool use of space otherwise empty. Another option... Have you guys seen the "saddle bags" for the gear tunnel? It provides a couple pockets on each side. You could easily make something.