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Before it goes on eBay and I have to pay fees how about £650?

It is what the title says. A brand new chassis never used other than the two brand new damper hangers were fitted (and can go with the chassis). It has no ID, you'll need to assign it a chassis ID which I assume is from your old one if destroyed. It's for the TD5 type, 110 Defender and is...

110 Station Wagon, with BMW (E35?) straight 6 engine and LPG. Was running until removed front wings (and so coil and ECU) to start work on bulkhead. No longer need Landy as it was to move cars form home to barn (farmer passed away so no longer have use of barn). Located in Norfolk. Rear of...

Well I finally admitted the project is getting nowhere in the barn, the floor has quite a slope on it so jacking things up is a no-no. I don't want to leave too mnay tools there in case they are stolen, it's a pain getting covered in grease and dirt then having to get in a relatively clean car...

Cleaned, removed rust and painted a few more bits that sit at chassis height, ready fro the cut, replace and bolt it all back together.

Nobody posted the joke that ends in the farmer's wife saying, no they're in the Landy bibbing the horn! I thought was the most appropriate one / most inappropriate. I know they're not as civilsed as Discos, Rangies Freelanders and the likes, but I still like the Defender / pre-Defenders best.

Agree completely on first two, just be wary of the third point, if it's rusted in such a way as to be dangerous to people (pedestrians etc) by leaving a jagged edge or something they can fail it, but it would have to be a hell of a rust hole for that.

Technically nothing on my landy, but a bit for my Landy. The side frames of my 110 estate (it's not technically a CSW) had rotted very badly so I looked at repairing them ages ago, it's hard to weld to nothing, so iot would have meant fabricating most of the rear of the frame. I went to the...

While it's still in place, get a small drill bit (2mm or whatever fits the bleed nipple, hold it with a pair of mole grips and clean the rust out of the main hole, chances are that's where it's blocked.

The trouble with that is insurers have something like 5 days to update the records, so it might be a week before it's available to tax online, some insurers are really bad at it and don't seem to get it done ever unless you chase them.

If you're looking for Hammerite satin finish you might as well just go to a local automotive paint supplier (Such as Apec) and get satin finish synthetic paint, it'll be just as good and a lot cheaper than a branded retail type.

Your master cylinder shouldn't have air in it, if you can hear air escaping it is probably from the servo, but the servo works by moving air, so not all air movement is bad. If your fluid went low (and not just by the amount that is caused by shoes and pads moving when operated) then either your...

Pedal creep is normally a faulty cylinder / calliper (seals etc). The reason you don't notice the creep when the engine is off is the servo assists your foot by making the force on the master cylinder greater than just the foot alone, so the creep is worse with the servo working (if you don't...

The plate will still have to comply with certain regs even if it's older than 2001 such as distance between characters size of characters etc, so you could easily make a mistake when putting the stickers on. This bit of info from the govt is really sh*t because it's layed out in a confusing...

Air will go to the upper most point it can and stay there, so no it will stay at the top of that corner's braking system. If you have lots of time you can remove the braking system and lower it so that the inlet union is near the top of the calliper. The air will move in that direction. If you...

The re-test only applies in certain circumstances (normally minor items), if it's a more major item and left the premises they are required to complete a full test but can for marketing purposes charge a reduced fee (could be free if they want).

Por15 is supposed to be good.

Sorry, should have made it clear I was responding to Gareth's post about putting them on front for FWD.

The reason for putting new tyres on the back of a front wheel drive is, despite them doing the most work, if either axle looses grip, the rear is the worst with the car doing a 360 quite easily, but the front generally just means under-steer. That's from an old guy I know who's been running his...

And? She's right isn't she? Google "NFN Norfolk" Andy Nofolk'n'good