What did you do with your Range Rover today

I would not tick the box - it's the car they don't like unless you've had lots of claims ?

Always best to use comparison sites first. Then call existing provider to see if they can beat best few quotes. If not pick one that does provide a quote on comparison site.

pwood999 said:

I would not tick the box - it's the car they don't like unless you've had lots of claims ?

Always best to use comparison sites first. Then call existing provider to see if they can beat best few quotes. If not pick one that does provide a quote on comparison site.

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+1^ I've done that for years

kermit_rr said:

first insurance quote declined.. i wonder how many others with refuse to cover me this time?

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The wife went on that Meerkat one in the end and it came down just under £300. Still a big increase but a third less than the renewal.

Sounds better. I generall use the money supermarket one, but often find different price morning, afternoon & evening for the same criteria. They reckon 20-26 days before renewal, but I often find those aren't any better. Then 3-5 days before it gets better. My guess is some get more competitive towards renewal.

Also many include European driving, which if you don't do it adds cost, so remove it (I never drive to Europe anymore). If we travel, it's planes & taxis, so we can have a good drink !! Recovery is another one, because you can usually get better deals elsewhere, and the insurance breakdown is normally only to local garage & no get the car home option.

My wife never drives the P38's (because the "uppy downness" scares her !!), but I always add her because it makes the cover cheaper.

pwood999 said:

Sounds better. I generall use the money supermarket one, but often find different price morning, afternoon & evening for the same criteria. They reckon 20-26 days before renewal, but I often find those aren't any better. Then 3-5 days before it gets better. My guess is some get more competitive towards renewal.

Also many include European driving, which if you don't do it adds cost, so remove it (I never drive to Europe anymore). If we travel, it's planes & taxis, so we can have a good drink !! Recovery is another one, because you can usually get better deals elsewhere, and the insurance breakdown is normally only to local garage & no get the car home option.

My wife never drives the P38's (because the "uppy downness" scares her !!), but I always add her because it makes the cover cheaper.

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Lock the suspension at motorway height, no more "uppy downness"

Datatek said:

Lock the suspension at motorway height, no more "uppy downness"

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Doesn't work on either of my P38. I did try it several times, but next startup, both always revert to normal height. Maybe the ECU is different on yours ?

Boingy things will sort the uppy downess but your insurance won’t like it

…get me coat

pwood999 said:

Doesn't work on either of my P38. I did try it several times, but next startup, both always revert to normal height. Maybe the ECU is different on yours ?

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Does the lock button light up? Is it still lit up after an ignition cycle?

pwood999 said:

Doesn't work on either of my P38. I did try it several times, but next startup, both always revert to normal height. Maybe the ECU is different on yours ?

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Here's a question, do your two 38's settle down suspension wise, when the ignition is off?

kermit_rr said:

Does the lock button light up? Is it still lit up after an ignitio

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Yes, and it reads correctly in Nanocom.

Mark Piercy said:

Here's a question, do your two 38's settle down suspension wise, when the ignition is off?

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Seems to depend a bit on the temperature. In winter they tend to settle an inch or two. In warmer weather they rise at the back !

Tried the hold button today. Started at home, hold button engaged & selected motorway height. Then drove to Sainsbury & switched off. Hold button on all the time.

Back to the car & started up while hod button still on. Car rose to standard height !!

Then drove up the A31, and it stayed at normal height even >>50mph. Release the button & it dropped to motorway height.

pwood999 said:

Yes, and it reads correctly in Nanocom.


Seems to depend a bit on the temperature. In winter they tend to settle an inch or two. In warmer weather they rise at the back !

Tried the hold button today. Started at home, hold button engaged & selected motorway height. Then drove to Sainsbury & switched off. Hold button on all the time.

Back to the car & started up while hod button still on. Car rose to standard height !!

Then drove up the A31, and it stayed at normal height even >>50mph. Release the button & it dropped to motorway height.

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What years are they?
Both mine and my son's being a my1999 and my2000 will stay on the lock at whatever height we choose.
The reason I ask is if the suspension relay on the fuse box is modified to cut the power to the suspension system completely on ignition shutdown this will override the suspension lock button on start up.

But.. If done that way the suspension won't make any adjustments at all without the engine running or live feed to the relay. I. E the system is completely shut down with key off!!

Both are 1998. Yes one of them has an extra ignition switched relay to remove power to the EAS timer relay & ECU with ignition off. did it to block self-leveling.

Will try the hold button on the other when I get a min or three.

pwood999 said:

Both are 1998. Yes one of them has an extra ignition switched relay to remove power to the EAS timer relay & ECU with ignition off. did it to block self-leveling.

Will try the hold button on the other when I get a min or three.

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I have an early 1999 and a late 2000, both I run locked at motorway height at all times. No change on start up.

So, did two thing: temp auto joke (or wjatever those temp senstive thing on Zenith carbs are called) to see if I replaced bith or just one last year. I only did one, which could explain the ignition issues under load. Tried to start her, didn't work. Carbs are taopped off wizh oil, it turns over nicely, but the fuel pump runs empty despite a full tank. Hope there are no residues in the tank, she stood a while. So, I did not book a new MOT / TÜV appointment just yet...

She never did this, regardless of how long she stood...

kermit_rr said:

Am i now supposed to tick the box on other quotes to say I've had insurance refused?

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Hi just wanted to share my experience. When you Admiral renewal went from £400 to £800 per year I went straight back to basics and filled in the “meerkats” comparison site. That way you’re going to get whatever is out there. The result for me was a new supplier 1st Central at £400 per year. Interestingly, my son got his best offer from the same company on a Mercedes but my daughters best offer was Admiral for a Corsa. For me the comparison sites always deliver the choices I seek. Keep looking.
Cheers Tricky

Well its been a busy time the range rovers been in full use as has the trailer,
As normal its started and worked everyday behaving itself as it always does,
Just clocked 153k today,
An impulse buy 5 days ago, a 2001 Mercedes S500L on 90k miles has led me on lastest brilliant idea for my drift car
I want the 5.0v8 in my e46 so ordered an adaptor and flywheel to run a bmw manual gearbox and started on my misson of stripping the Mercedes,
Without being able to get solid pinputs of everything without hours of reading diagrams I decided to just jump in and unplug things and see if it still ran and reved and cut back bit by bit never ending wires,
10 hours of labour and I had the seats out the dash out and the engine running independently of the Mercedes using only the infrared key module engine ecu and shifter on their own canbus loop and got the cluster working,
Had to do a lot of unplugging modules and cutting loom back bit by bit but iv managed to gut 400 wires down to about 10 interior side, and a small fuse box,
Engine loom stays as it is,
Iv now got the engine in a state it will run with jumpleads and 2 modules required and a simple canbus system on a pallet on the floor awaiting my adaptor plates,
Having never touched Mercedes electronics in my life i have to say
I wouldn't ever complain about range rover electronics they are bloody bloody easy with tons of avaliable info in comparison,

Tricky of York said:

Hi just wanted to share my experience. When you Admiral renewal went from £400 to £800 per year I went straight back to basics and filled in the “meerkats” comparison site. That way you’re going to get whatever is out there. The result for me was a new supplier 1st Central at £400 per year. Interestingly, my son got his best offer from the same company on a Mercedes but my daughters best offer was Admiral for a Corsa. For me the comparison sites always deliver the choices I seek. Keep looking.
Cheers Tricky

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It can even be worthwhile comparing more than one comparison site !! Don't forget they also get commission on the policy selected !!

Drove it for 900klm 11hrs from home to Greece waiting at ferry port tonight for a ferry in the morning to corfu.
It threw a restricted performance plugged in gap without turning off in case it wouldn’t and we were stranded.
2 codes but it cleared the restricted performance without clearing them
P040D-00(2f) but said unknown
Other body control
C1D21-05(2f)
Both at the same time it cleared itself and not seen since so have not poked around. Will have a closer look when we get to villa tomorrow
But of cos I don’t have any of my files with me to check myself.
So anybody who can check would be great
Thanks

Apart from that it was a great drive and we are now sitting by the med waiting on grub and a few beers cos I am fresh as and ready for a beer.

J

The P040D-00 is the NS exhaust manifold temp sensor circuit high (NS in this case being UK nearside). Hopefully just poor pin-grip or vibration causing transitional resistance - try a high-dielectric strength grease (Nyogel 760G or similar) in the contact sockets first, otherwise, it's sensor replacement after wiring checks.

Graculus said:

The P040D-00 is the NS exhaust manifold temp sensor circuit high (NS in this case being UK nearside). Hopefully just poor pin-grip or vibration causing transitional resistance - try a high-dielectric strength grease (Nyogel 760G or similar) in the contact sockets first, otherwise, it's sensor replacement after wiring checks.

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Ok thanks.
Where exactly is it? From the top or bottom?
It cleared itself and even though it gave the code it seems a bit suspect. Normally it gives code then brief description we got “unknown “

But by heck it was a POS when in that limp.

J