Looking at possibly purchasing a freelander 2 can you guys who own one give me some adivce?

Hi there

I'm new to this so sorry if I haven't posted this in the right section! I currently have a 2010 VW Scirocco with 121000 miles on it. Have owned if for 3 years and honestly hasn't gave me much trouble at all but have gotten sick of the size & comfort on bad roads (I live in rural Northern Ireland so most roads I drive on are rough enough with pot holes etc). Obviously the Scirocco is a small sports car only two seats in the back and a rather small boot none of which is a huge issue just very annoying when not even much stuff takes up the whole back of the car!
Some people have suggested just getting a bigger car - can't find any that I like within my price range and like the idea of getting a jeep.
The two jeeps I have taken to like is the freelander 2 and the VW Tiguan.
A local dealer here has a 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS and has given me a trade in price on my own car of £3500 leaving me to only put £400 towards it. The only thing is it has 150,000 miles on it so quite high! I am waiting to hear back from him about the service history.
Can you guys give some advice based on your own experience with the freelander 2?

Would be much appreciated!

First off, we know in NI everything 4X4 is a Jeep. Some folks are sensitive to such things however, so it's best to call it a Freelander 2 (FL2 here) as it's LAND ROVER and a Tiguan is a VW.

As for buying a Freelander 2 (which is miles better to drive than a Tiguan), then it pays to check everything very carefully, and I'd also say avoid lower spec models, as they'll be less sort after and less valuable later on. I'd stick to the SE and HSE, as they get sat nav (it's no TomTom, but nice to have) they also get electric heated seats, heated windscreen, decent audio system, and loads of other extras like power fold mirrors with puddle lights and a host of other bits n pieces.

Miles isn't really an issue, but complete maintenance carried out by someone competent is extremely important, or components fail, with potentially expensive repair costs.
For example, my rear diff seized up while I was driving, which had me skidding sideways down the road, needing a lorry ride home.
The reason my rear diff seized, was because there was no oil in it. Now this could be lack of maintenance or complete incompetence, but it's now down to me to sort out.

So before you lay down any cash on a FL2, be aware that things can go wrong, and when they do, they can be seriously expensive to sort, especially if you can't DIY the repairs.

As for what to check:
Externally the body should be presentable, with nothing more than general wear and tear damage. Look for rust, particularly around the rear wheel arches and rear door apertures.
Check underneath for corrosion too, as salt on roads makes them rust, as does submerging in salt water.
Check the interior trim for wear and damage, as trim is often difficult to find, or expensive or both.
Make sure any equipment fitted works, as anything that doesn't is again expensive to replace, often requiring the new component to be electronically configured to the vehicle.

The way the engine starts is a good indication of condition. It should start promptly from cold, without much smoke, and run smoothly straight away. If revved gently from cold, it should do so without stuttering or hesitation, or any smoke.
Be aware that after 2009, a DPF could be optionally fitted, which can suffer from short journeys, which is why I looked for a late 2008 model.

The FL2 AWD system does have some issues, namely the rear diff, and PTU at the front.

The rear diff has a particularly short life, so can be changed several times in the vehicle's life. Having looked at the design, I believe it's been designed badly, and then assembled badly too, which doesn't produce a long lived unit.
The Haldex is generally reliable, but only if it's serviced at intervals much shorter than 150k miles LR suggest.

The PTU can suffer spline failure, which results in a clicking sound or jolting drive when turning at full lock.

The manual gearbox should select all gears smoothly, just like any moder car, and the clutch should be light and mid way up the pedal travel.

The steering should be silent when turned lock to lock, be light and positive, and the vehicle shouldn't wonder about on the road.

The FL2 is extremely quiet when being driven on the road, so noises from the rear diff and wheel bearings and gearbox are obvious.

The suspension shouldn't thump or clunk over bumps.

There's loads more to check, but basically check everything.

Hi matt:
What a very beautiful area do you live in!!!
I have had Freelander 2 TD4 year 2007 manual. Like everything, it has its good and bad points.
Good: very good size, excellent finishes and comfort, smooth handling, powerful, reasonable fuel consumption, it is a joy to drive on the road ... and off road. Simple maintenance (but it must be done even if LR does not support it, such as oil and haldex filter !!!) For an SUV, it has a very good 4x4 terrain response traction system
It is a LR.
Bad: Delicate rear differential, door locks fail, if it has an electronic fault it can be a labyrinth, sometimes the engine goes into safe mode for different reasons (turbo hoses, throttle box, fuel pressure, egr ...) nothing cannot be repaired. Haldex pump fatigue produces reduced traction failure.
It is a LR.
The important thing is that it has been well cared for and maintained, the km or miles it has are not excessive.
It is a joy to drive.
sure I leave things that someone will expand.
Very good car.

Sorry to Nodge. I was writing this brick while he posted.