Series 2 Series 2a (a suffix) clutch bleeding issue.

Evening all.

I’ve come to bleed the clutch up on my series 2a, 1962 2.25 petrol. It’s the early type slave cylinder, and the reservoir is shared with the brakes. All new components, including hoses. Excluding the reservoir and push rod out of the slave cylinder.

I’ve bled it conventionally, opening the nipple and pressing the pedal and then closing before releasing. I’m getting clear fluid with no bubbles what so ever. With the return spring removed from the arm which the slave cylinder acts upon it takes 1 pump before getting resistance, and the arm being pushed far enough to act upon the clutch. I’ve bled it over and over and I’m getting nothing but good clear fluid.

Is the push rod too short? It looks bodged about on the cylinder end and the clevis is adjusted right out.

I’m sure there is no air getting in. I can’t see any leaks.

What is going on?

Cheers guys

was it working before

jamesmartin said:

was it working before

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Before I stripped the land rover yes. The “original” bracket for the clutch slave cylinder had been cut and welded a few times for some reason. I bought a replacement, original bracket. And I believe I have bought all the correct parts to put it back to how it should be.....

joe_m said:

Before I stripped the land rover yes. The “original” bracket for the clutch slave cylinder had been cut and welded a few times for some reason. I bought a replacement, original bracket. And I believe I have bought all the correct parts to put it back to how it should be.....

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any work on the gear box?was the bracket cut to get round this issue.position of the release fork shaft is vital a is condition on the tube joining it to the slave cylinder linkage

The gearbox is a factory reconditioned unit. By the serial numbers on the plate I am lead to believe it is a 2a housing built with fully synchronised series 3 innards. The work on the bracket was very poor.

How can I check I am getting correct movement on the release shaft?

Is the rod fixed or adjustable?

rob1miles said:

Is the rod fixed or adjustable?

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adjustable via a clevis that connects to arm on shaft out of the bell housing. This is adjusted all the way out although the cylinder end looks tampered with. If it was too short I guess it could be giving this problem? Maybe I order a new rod.

Have you left the return spring off, general consensus is it causes problems.
Push rod length from a series 2 club post quote:- I believe the standard length is 4½".
Another post has fitted cylinder below bracket to get over the issue.
Quote:-
"On closer inspection, it seemed the pedal was too light to be doing much and although all of the linkage was turning, the very last rod into the release housing was not turning.
As suspected, the pushrod, even at maximum extension, was not long enough to engage with the clutch. The pushrod is the correct one, exactly the same length as Gene has fitted. The parts manual only appears to show one pushrod length, so it must be right.
In order to fix it, I removed the slave cylinder and once again mounted it beneath the bracket as it was before. With the rebuilt pedal box, it is much nicer to use. It took seconds to adjust and get the correct free play at the pedal, bled easily and now functions well.
Perhaps beneath the bracket is the right way for it to be mounted anyway. Although the parts book drawings appear to show it above the bracket, I do have to wonder if this is right?

joe_m said:

The gearbox is a factory reconditioned unit. By the serial numbers on the plate I am lead to believe it is a 2a housing built with fully synchronised series 3 innards. The work on the bracket was very poor.

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the last 2as had full synchro but the later slave attached to bell housing,so if your is full synchro its been adapted.
if the shaft which is splined to the release fork isnt fitted in the correct orientation for the pin,you wont have the correct travel,be either too much or too little as you have,hence perhaps why your other bracket has been altered,maybe making or lengthening the slave push rod might help
the fork should be just about touching the release bearing when slave is at rest so you have the slaves full travel to release the clutch

jamesmartin said:

the last 2as had full synchro but the later slave attached to bell housing,so if your is full synchro its been adapted.
if the shaft which is splined to the release fork isnt fitted in the correct orientation for the pin,you wont have the correct travel,be either too much or too little as you have,hence perhaps why your other bracket has been altered,maybe making or lengthening the slave push rod might help
the fork should be just about touching the release bearing when slave is at rest so you have the slaves full travel to release the clutch

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I went out this morning and did exactly that. I added 7/8” to it, so it has a little free play before acting on the clutch. And it’s perfect! Cheers guys