TD5 Strikes Again

Evening all,

New to the forum and so far absolutely loving my Td5 disco despite a wanted post will be put up soon for a chassis in preparation for the inevitable.

On a more unfortunate note, my sister has recently part exchanged her freelander for a td5 almost identical to mine and it’s giving all the traditional headaches. In order of appearance here is the fault and what we have tried so far;

Sometimes the car starts after not even 1 revolution of the engine but on other occasions it simply will not go. This has no correlation with temperature or anything like that and the fault is very irregular, so far we have done the following;

New Injector wiring loom
New Injector seals
New Crank position sensor
New Air bleed valve in fuel filter housing
Fuel pump swapped with the one from my disco
Full service
Ecu plugs cleaned
Egr is already deleted

We have found fault codes in the ecu for the maf being down, unplugging it makes no difference to this fault. Noisy crank signal and some faults we believe to be a common irrelevance for air con and a can fault.

Sorry to ask the most common question on earth but running out of ideas and local specialists are equally stumped, any help is much appreciated

Check the connections to the battery, known weak point when the get over tightened.
As a temp solution open the gap with the blade of a screwdriver and then refit and tighten

They have been off a few times so should be making a good clean contact but I’ll bear it in mind thanks

What is the little red led on the dash doing when it will not start?

Cheers

Haven’t been watching it to be honest, if we have another look tomorrow I’ll watch it.

I have noticed with the live data read out on my diagnostics machine that when it is spinning over and not starting there is no engine rpm registered but as soon as there is, it starts. Not sure if this is a fault or the rpm is only sensed once it’s running and all a coincidence but then again we towed the car in gear and got an rpm reading without it running so it’s all very contradictory

So I take it is cranking but not starting then?


Cheers

Yes that’s the one

The Td5 engine ECU is quite voltage sensitive. It requires greater than 10.5 volts while the engine is cranking to work effectively. Anything below that and there's a fairly good chance that it won't start.

Starter motor is arching,fit a new one.(The arching is corrupting the signal from the crankshaft position sensor)

@eightinavee has a good point ... if it's manual you can rule this out by trying to bump start it without cranking it ....if it starts that way the observation from above is spot on, if still doesnt start the problem is something else

Also you could try jump leads or even a cheap jump pack, as mentioned above you may just need a little more voltage while cranking

New starter motor fitted yesterday morning and the car has been absolutely flawless ever since, thanks again everyone!

Next question, any td5 chassis for sale for mine (not scared of welding) or a whole car for spares I can split up to use

Where do I send the invoice ?

eightinavee said:

Where do I send the invoice ?

Click to expand...

The same place I’m sending mine for the time I’ve spent on it

Buy a solinoid repair kit and repair your old starter and keep it as a spare

Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252316462452

Here you go its a tenner fix plus postage it takes longer to get it out tha to fix it

Iancorky said:

Check the connections to the battery, known weak point when the get over tightened.
As a temp solution open the gap with the blade of a screwdriver and then refit and tighten

Click to expand...

I had this issue - poor battery connection after I put in a new battery - problem was most certainly caused by over-tightening in the past. Disco just went dead out on the road at a stop sign - battery post clamps had poor and intermittent contact! Re-shaped clamps with pliers and also used lead shims - all good now.