Knocking noise even after parts replacement

Freelander 1 2004 td4

Hi Guys,

I have a knocking noise which I was hoping someone may know what it is.
The noise is noticeable in low gear when pulling away due to the strain on the engine. You can make the noise happen when holding your foot on the brake and rocking the car in first and reverse.
I have pinpointed the noise and have mistakenly replaced a wrong part which was the driveshaft. So the driveshaft now being new, the noise is coming from the oposite end to the wheel directly from the engine side. It is the drivers front side.
My mechanics experience really only goes to the replacing g of the driveshaft,there on in gets a bit daunting but I would love to hear some ideas what it could be so I can choose to do the work or not.

Many Thanks

check the engine tie bar ! these can make that sort of noise !

Thanks Hoss,

I think I've already replaced that as well, the part your talking about, does it look like a boomerang shape and fits right under the driveshaft? If so that's the part I've also replaced

lsains said:

Thanks Hoss,

I think I've already replaced that as well, the part your talking about, does it look like a boomerang shape and fits right under the driveshaft? If so that's the part I've also replaced

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Did you replace the whole drive shaft or just the dodgy end? Did you torque everything up correctly?
With your car on it's wheels check the drop link and everything around the suspension then if nothing loose jack it up and rock the wheel, it could be a bearing, track rod end or ball joint.

Alibro said:

Did you replace the whole drive shaft or just the dodgy end? Did you torque everything up correctly?
With your car on it's wheels check the drop link and everything around the suspension then if nothing loose jack it up and rock the wheel, it could be a bearing, track rod end or ball joint.

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Thanks Alibro

Yes I replaced the whole driveshaft. The reason I replaced it is that I had it on the ramps and found exactly where the knock was, it was right where the driveshaft fits into the transmission.
The noise still persists and still coming from the same area, but what could cause a noise from in there?

Like I said, if it is loose enough to be knocking then you should be able to feel it by pushing with your hand.
Oh and the lower tie bar mentioned earlier is one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2213...=1007285&device=c&campaignid=856327663&crdt=0

Alibro said:

Like I said, if it is loose enough to be knocking then you should be able to feel it by pushing with your hand.
Oh and the lower tie bar mentioned earlier is one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2213...=1007285&device=c&campaignid=856327663&crdt=0

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Yes that's the part I've also replaced,yet the noise still seems to be coming from the gearbox end. Looks like a trip to the garage is in order

It is likely to be one of the engine/ gearbox mounts. There have been some cases where the gearbox mount has failed, resulting in a knock under load. Also get the garage to check for any pipes that are hitting the bulkhead as the engine moves under load.

If its the driver side (and its a RHD car), then the driveshaft slots directly into the IRD. The support bearing in the IRD for this driveshaft is known to wear - often I believe because the driveshaft was faulty and/or a poor quality replacement. I'm not exactly sure how you would diagnose it - but I presume if you were to wiggle the driveshaft there would be some play.

Hopefully others can expand on this because if this is the case it is a serious problem.

It can result in gears slipping/jamming and cracking the IRD case. This being the case it is an expensive fix because you need a replacement IRD and won't have an exchange value in a cracked IRD. The actual bearing is cheap, but its quite a labour intensive fix as the IRD needs to be removed and broken down (I believe).

Having said this, what replacement driveshaft did you use? If its a LR Genuine one, it should be good. However, aftermarket ones are often worse than the faulty one being replaced. This could be your problem - and as I say, if you drive it like this it will take out your IRD by demolishing its support bearing.

I'm pretty sure what I've said is correct, as I say, it would be good to get a 2nd opinion.

I'd check output bearing on IRD. and never use aftermarket drive shafts. they are no good. have a pair of new ones that produced a lot of vibration when installed so took them out again and services my old ones as they were still good. if you ned another pair go for used or origionals but they are expensive at least locally (Malta) (600 euro each side)

Charlot said:

I'd check output bearing on IRD. and never use aftermarket drive shafts. they are no good. have a pair of new ones that produced a lot of vibration when installed so took them out again and services my old ones as they were still good. if you ned another pair go for used or origionals but they are expensive at least locally (Malta) (600 euro each side)

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Did you recon the drive shafts yourself?

Not exactly reconed. Just replaced boots with new ones as previous ones were leaking and while they were off the vehicle cleaned all the old grease. Took off the tripod bearing and cleaned. All was still good apart from the usual slight signs of wear. Then re. greased with apropriate cv grease. Packed the boot and fastened back with 2 jubilee clips connected together (just to be balanced) as the usual cheap metal bands where not sealing propperly and grease kept leaking from between the boot and inner cv causing the knock.
Mine has a 50mm lift on so boot has more stress due to the angle. And that's also why aftermarket are not good due to lack of articulation. As pointed out on another thread while trying to trace the knock and vibration.
Now I have found a used set in good condition I keep in the garage just in case I need to replace mine in the future.

Charlot said:

Not exactly reconed. Just replaced boots with new ones as previous ones were leaking and while they were off the vehicle cleaned all the old grease. Took off the tripod bearing and cleaned. All was still good apart from the usual slight signs of wear. Then re. greased with apropriate cv grease. Packed the boot and fastened back with 2 jubilee clips connected together (just to be balanced) as the usual cheap metal bands where not sealing propperly and grease kept leaking from between the boot and inner cv causing the knock.
Mine has a 50mm lift on so boot has more stress due to the angle. And that's also why aftermarket are not good due to lack of articulation. As pointed out on another thread while trying to trace the knock and vibration.
Now I have found a used set in good condition I keep in the garage just in case I need to replace mine in the future.

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I had the same issue with aftermarket drive shafts on a 50mm lift kit. They are no good at all.

@lsains join the facebook group freelanderss owners club and freelander owners club (sales page) there are some brakers who brake freelanders and may help you with sourcing parts although shipping will still be slightly expensive to ship certain parts.
Also I'd try getting hold of a pair of used driveshafts or service your old ones and try putting them back in. And see how it goes.
Mine used to do the knocking when pulling away, and when accelerating.
What I noticed was:
When pulling away the front suspention extends slightly and that's when the knocking occured. When going at constant speed it was fine.
When going over bumpes with foot on accelerator pedal it was fine untill you reached the top of the bump. When suspension extended again when going over it it mad the knocking again.
Also when turning and one side extended and vice versa. This was with my origional shafts. With the aftermarket knocking stopped and vibration began. Went bach to old ones after servicing as above and was fine again without the previous knocking.
You could also check that the Anti Roll Bar is centered and not touching the shocks. If its touching, then check the clamps. The bar should have some kind of plastic stoppers (like fat rings) on inner side of each clamp holding it. They could have moved or perished. In that case center the ARB back in place and put a stainless steel jubilee clip in their place together with a washer on the clamp side and see how it goes. Did same on mine and others too.

Many thanks for all your replies, sorry for the late reply I had no notifications on any other emails.

So the knocking has been fixed and it WAS a mounting. Even with me thinking I had located the knock, it was just vibration from a different area. Such a pain but just goes to show you have to check everywhere!

I would also suggest to buy genuine driveshafts, the aftermarket one I've put in vibrates in 2nd gear on hard acceleration, though not noticeable in any other gear and in normal driving conditions.

lsains said:

Many thanks for all your replies, sorry for the late reply I had no notifications on any other emails.

So the knocking has been fixed and it WAS a mounting. Even with me thinking I had located the knock, it was just vibration from a different area. Such a pain but just goes to show you have to check everywhere!

I would also suggest to buy genuine driveshafts, the aftermarket one I've put in vibrates in 2nd gear on hard acceleration, though not noticeable in any other gear and in normal driving conditions.

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You can get reconditioned GKN drive shafts from Eurocarparts/Carparts4less for a lot less than new. They seem to be pretty good, much better than aftermarket as I found out to my cost.