Tailgate glass recalibration nightmare.

I did see that thread and have moved the wires out of the way as they were exactly the same as the pictures in that post, just stops still in the same place.

Can you get someone to press down switch while you pushndown on the window?

thequeenscheese said:

Can you get someone to press down switch while you pushndown on the window?

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Will give that a try before I take it apart could save some time with a bit of luck.... Actually can do it when I unlock it as the window just open anyway.

Worth a try, I'd guess there a tangled cable on the motor spool, if you end upstripping the cables off, look up on how to put them back there a pain in the ass..

You have checked the heated rear screen wires arnt fowling? And are connected it won't calibrate if their undone I don't think?..

Also try loosening the bottom 2 runner nuts as they control the camber of the window maybe they are over tight?

I think your cables are stuck

Will be taking a look soon, did find a video on youtube showing how the cables go, I did have a similar fault on the drivers door with the cables so know they are a bit of a pain.

Solved

After removing the rear tailgate glass it appeared that the runner on the drivers side was actually catching the rear door itself, so I removed the spare wheel and it looks like the previous owner had reversed into something pushing the door in just enough to stop the window from going all the way down. So a strap round the spare wheel bracket then attached to my wife's car and I managed to pull the tailgate out the centimetre or so it needed to get clearance, and after fitting the window back in, it recalibrated straight away didn't even need to disconnect the battery again, so one very happy chappy here now it's all fixed.

And a big thanks guys for your help I wouldn't have stripped it down had it not been for your ideas.

Well done, another 1 keeps trundling on..

Great stuff.

So we have learnt recently that the rear window goes all the way down. If it doesn't then when you disconnect the battery it won't recalibrate.
Also there can be multiple reasons for the window not to go down, like sticking on wires, bent tailgate or the runners tight.

That is before we talk about the window not dropping at all, which seems to be electrical.

Oh the joys of owning a Land Rover Freelander.



I wouldn't have it any other way

I know tell me about it, never come across such complex systems, but what would I do with my spare time eh.........

I found that getting the window all the way down and holding it there for 5 seconds was the key, then go all the way up and hold for 5...

It should completely retract. If it doesn't you will have to strip the interior panel and find out why not.

lenny1234 said:

I found that getting the window all the way down and holding it there for 5 seconds was the key, then go all the way up and hold for 5...

It should completely retract. If it doesn't you will have to strip the interior panel and find out why not.

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on this thread the guy solved his problem by pulling the door back out.

Brack said:

on this thread the guy solved his problem by pulling the door back out.

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On another it was catching on wires to the wiper motor.

Unless you know that you have bent the door, all that pulling it out will do is damage the door unnecessarily.