Tailgate glass recalibration nightmare.

Hi Guys,
I have today changed the battery on my 2003 TD4 and found I have the popular tailgate calibration issue, I have a couple of questions I hope someone can help with. I have tried the various fixes through reading other posts but all have failed! when lifting the window on the switch it gets to the top beeps 4 times and just go's back to the bottom! sometimes I have to turn of the ignition as the switch will not operate the window back up until I have done this.

Should the rear window go all the way down into the tailgate? as mine has always been 3 or so inches above when fully down? And I am led to believe that the calibration wont work unless the window can go all the way down. as per what I have read the wiper is not working could this be the issue? I have not used it and it is sitting in the parked position, I have the rear door panel of atm what should I be looking for? Any recommendations would be appreciated as im kinda lost on what to do.

Thanks in advance.

Make sure battery terminals are really tight and u need the door shut to calibrate it, there was a thread not to long ago on here with a how to in none of the post one of which was mine...

Not sure about the calibration process but when lowered, my glass is in line with the rubber strip.

It is a new battery and I have checked the terminals are tight, just wonder if this was a problem before and now it needs calibrating it has raised its ugly head! Any idea on how to get my window to drop level? Is it worth taking out the motor? I cant see anything obstructing the window but at the same time I'm not really sure.

thequeenscheese said:

Make sure battery terminals are really tight and u need the door shut to calibrate it, there was a thread not to long ago on here with a how to in none of the post one of which was mine...

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I did see your reply and a few more that I tried. I like a challenge but this seems like a frustrating one.......

Its an over complex design tbh

Hmmm seems so, I'm gonna take it all apart tomorrow and see what I can find, Just not sure I want to take it all out clean it up and put it back to still have the same issue! Are there any fuses or relays that are worth checking or is it unlikely?

Not sure but maybe the heated rear screen particulars, I think if I remember the Haynes manual method worked for me but I've not got it to hand right now, and mine was L series..

I'd start again take the battery off for 5mims (forget correct time prob 30 secs) reconnect window should drop/or is already down, then I think I held the button (down position) until it beeped then just up and down and that was it calibrated .. But I can't remember exactly tbh

Window is up atm only because I used the key in the lock, as soon as I unlock it go's straight down, and only go's up once locked and using the key in the boot. I'm gonna go look at the fuses and relays while I still have a little light.

my wife's freelander back window played up once and it was one of the ends on the cable had gave way a little and was not going fully down. both of ours go nearly into the door

I have attached an image of how far my window go's down, seems it should go more but I'm not sure.

Should go all the way down, I'm guessing you can't send it further on the switch?

No that's as far as it will go on the switch, and when I unlock it and it go's down, the runners seem to go about another 2-3 inches below the window when its down.

Is it the same when disconnect battery/reconnect?

If it worked fine b4 the battery then its a big coincidence its failed now, unless I've never used it all the way down b4 or for a long time maybe by dropping its broken some thing.
Checkmits not catching on the loom or another obstruction,and wd4 up the runners and cables, you could call a stealer and get the correct recal procedure..

Yes it's the same when the battery is disconnected to, but it has always only ever gone down that far since I had the car, I thought that was normal but it seems not. would be a massive coincidence going wrong at the same time the battery is changed, I'm wondering if it was faulty before and now it needs calibrating it cant do the cycle as the window for some reason wont go all the way down so it can set the open/close limits.....

Sounds that way, tbh its easy enough to take out and look over
Take the glass out, bolted in each side,
Remove the sliders x2 bolts/nuts each side
Remove motor x3 bolts and twist (unplug stuff first )
Then remove the whole assembly
Give it a check grease it up and replace in reverse order getting the glass back exactly might take a few attempts, I'd say mark it but then that might be your issue that its not central...

Sounds easy enough, job for tomorrow then I shall look forward to trying to find out what's going on, I will post my findings perhaps with some pictures.

Might be a similar problem to Popsi's thread where the wires were stopping the glass coming right down..see the pic on post 32

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/ca...dow-after-new-battery-connected-265743-4.html

Brack said:

Might be a similar problem to Popsi's thread where the wires were stopping the glass coming right down..see the pic on post 32

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/ca...dow-after-new-battery-connected-265743-4.html

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That's what I was thinking

thequeenscheese said:

That's what I was thinking

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Sorry bud, didn't realise you'd already said about sticking on the wires

teddywood too