Binding Brake on NSF

I'm getting a binding brake, (NSF), and the alloy wheel is often hotter than the OSF. It can often be accompanied by a smell of hot brake pads, and a squeak as you drive. It can pull left under braking, and the brake dust is much heavier on the NSF alloy wheel.

When I come to rest at traffic lights the vehicle is very definately stationary unless I'm on an incline! (no roll or creep)

Now very recently when this situation has resulted in a VERY hot wheel, I have noticed a couple of the HDC lights on the dash actually light up....the handbook says this can happen if the " HDC is running too hot....and should be disengaged and re-engaged."

Now, remember, this is under normal driving/road conditions.

So, should I have the disc's and brake pads changed on the front end, and get the problem resolved that way, or change just the pads?

Any advice gratefully received. Mike

Changing discs and/or pads won't fix the underlying problem which sounds like a seized piston. Or a stone stuck in the calliper.

Needs to be investigated asap.

Only then will you know if new discs or pads are needed.

If your getting the wheel that hot the next stage is brake fade - or worse - fluid boils and no brakes at all.

well said it must be investigated I had brake fade out on a steep hill many years ago with a big van Full and it is not to be recomended

Does indeed sound like a siezed piston or siezed caliper slider.

Had this problem on both front wheels. On checking slides were fine, dust seals on pistons were fine and pistons seemed to withdraw just enough. lubed everything anyway.
Problem persisted. Removed and stripped calipers to find pistons were rusting (not visible as dust seals in perfect order). Replaced pistons £10 each and all seals £25 set. Compare to price of replacement caliper (as recommended by 'mechanic') of £130 each.
No repeat of sticking now.

I think i have this - freelander td4 - auto.
get a slight binding just at the moment i stop, and again just as i pull away, a slight biting clunk each time. I changed pads and discs as they were a bit warped - problem still persists. Its worth noting that if i come to a halt in neutral the brakes dont do it, only when fighting the autobox. On the flat when i place into drive i do pull away slowly without any accelerator, this is my first auto and i am assuming this is normal to assist in hill starts
is it worth attempting to lube the pistons or should i just go straight for a new set?

NavyReg1970 said:

I think i have this - freelander td4 - auto.
get a slight binding just at the moment i stop, and again just as i pull away, a slight biting clunk each time. I changed pads and discs as they were a bit warped - problem still persists. Its worth noting that if i come to a halt in neutral the brakes dont do it, only when fighting the autobox. On the flat when i place into drive i do pull away slowly without any accelerator, this is my first auto and i am assuming this is normal to assist in hill starts
is it worth attempting to lube the pistons or should i just go straight for a new set?

Click to expand...

Chances are you will damage the dust seal and piston seal when removing the piston to clean it - just as well to replace the seals while it is stripped down

Hi NavyReg,

I cannot advise you on your brake question - but I can confirm that your gearbox should pull away on the flat as soon as you take your foot off the brake pedal. All auto-boxes do this.

Okay, got the ES back today.

It needed a brake pipe hose replacing, which was been held in place by nylon cable clips! So, new pipe and the proper retaining clips, went on.

However, consequential damage due to the heat over the period of time, meant I had to have new Disc's due to a slight warp of the NSF one (both sides as common sense dictates), new pads (again, both sides), replaced brake fluid completely.

During this repair it was found I had a damaged anti-roll bar link too on the nearside, so that was replaced too.

If I could just get my hands on the ejit who worked on this vehicle for the previous owner......grrrrr!

Total cost £308.

Happy Xmas ?!?!?

jacko4034 said:

Had this problem on both front wheels. On checking slides were fine, dust seals on pistons were fine and pistons seemed to withdraw just enough. lubed everything anyway.
Problem persisted. Removed and stripped calipers to find pistons were rusting (not visible as dust seals in perfect order). Replaced pistons £10 each and all seals £25 set. Compare to price of replacement caliper (as recommended by 'mechanic') of £130 each.
No repeat of sticking now.

Click to expand...

Where did you get your parts from. I'm assuming not dealer as the pistons are a reasonable price.



Also CB40 a lot of that price will be labour which is why it's worth tackling simpler repairs yourself. Granted though the hydraulic hose collapsing is not always an easy diagnose for us diy-ers but the actual job of what was replaced isn't too difficult.

chromiumuk said:

Where did you get your parts from. I'm assuming not dealer as the pistons are a reasonable price.



Also CB40 a lot of that price will be labour which is why it's worth tackling simpler repairs yourself. Granted though the hydraulic hose collapsing is not always an easy diagnose for us diy-ers but the actual job of what was replaced isn't too difficult.

Click to expand...

an easy way to check if it is the hose or the caliper is to open the bleed nipple,open the bleed nipple if the wheel can be turned freely again its the hose,if it still cant be turned its the caliper

Also CB40 a lot of that price will be labour which is why it's worth tackling simpler repairs yourself.

Click to expand...

Health issues do not allow me to do anything more than check oil, water and tyre pressures I'm afraid..............

at least doing a bit of investigation would hopefully give you some idea and maybe save you a few quid.Doing the brakes is not that complicated

chromiumuk said:

Where did you get your parts from. I'm assuming not dealer as the pistons are a reasonable price.



Also CB40 a lot of that price will be labour which is why it's worth tackling simpler repairs yourself. Granted though the hydraulic hose collapsing is not always an easy diagnose for us diy-ers but the actual job of what was replaced isn't too difficult.

Click to expand...

From me local independant, Landranger Services. Can't fault them, apart from the mechanic......

Burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrp!!!!!!!! :5bcheers2:


excusse me!!!!!!!!!!

Just an update. The aforementioned work only cured the problem for a short while, with the symptoms returning after about a week.

On this occasion, the mechanic was able to establish that the piston was not reseating correctly (fully) into the caliper. This caliper has now been replaced, and hopefully this will be the end of the problem. I'll let you know if there are any further issues.


BTW: Thanks Jedi for your valuable input.