Freelander 1 Front Wheel Banging when braking ABS? SOLVED

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andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member
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Gradually debugging the G4 !
Front LHS wheel makes a rhythmic dull banging when braking.
It's had new discs, pads, poly bushes etc.
Checked and double checked everything is correct and tight.

Today it did it and I noticed the pedal pulse under my foot. The ABS wasn't needed but when I tried the HDC and decelerate it is the same noise, so looks like the ABS is operating when not needed.

No fault codes, any ideas or anyone had this?

If it is a sticky solenoid in the ABS then maybe using PScan to activate a brake bleed cycle may clear it?
 
@pscan.eu is there a piece of data on pscan that indicates that ABS is activating on a wheel? Then I can plot wheel speed on all 4 wheels against activation signal and see what is happening. Thanks.
 
So have eliminated the ABS. Was overthinking it. Just pulled the ABS fuse and it still does it !!

Back to lying underneath I guess. Could be air in the caliper making it jumpy to act?
 
andyfreelandy said:
So have eliminated the ABS. Was overthinking it. Just pulled the ABS fuse and it still does it !!

Back to lying underneath I guess. Could be air in the caliper making it jumpy to act?
Click to expand...
Check none of the brake slide pins are getting stuck. That caused all sorts of weird noises to come from mine including groaning, creaking and clunking some how. The guide pins should move freely, if they are sticky it’ll cause problems.
 
I had to replace my pad carriers with new trw ones to cure it, they came with all new guide pins and boots etc. Been fine since.
 
Check run-out on the rotor. There should be very little measurable run-out. If you can see run-out, then there's too much. The cause can be a warped rotor, but it's more likely to be corrosion behind the bell, jacking the rotor off the hub.
The Wife's Audi A5 has developed a vibration on the nearside after a few seconds of braking, so looks like I've also got to sort out a run-out issue.
 
Hi John, they are new rotors and run true.
Strangely there is no vibration, just a road speed changing dull banging as the wheel rotates but only while braking.
Absolutely nothing loose or moving.
Did feel a sensation under the pedal so that's why I went the ABS route. It could be air or sticking guides as above or sticking piston I suppose.
Didn't do it before I put new rotors and pads in !!
 
Air in the caliper won't cause noise.
A stuck piston or guide pin will cause the brakes to overheat, this will cause noise and juddering, but a hot brake would be very obvious and not something you could overlook
 
andyfreelandy said:
Hi John, they are new rotors and run true.
Strangely there is no vibration, just a road speed changing dull banging as the wheel rotates but only while braking.
Absolutely nothing loose or moving.
Did feel a sensation under the pedal so that's why I went the ABS route. It could be air or sticking guides as above or sticking piston I suppose.
Didn't do it before I put new rotors and pads in !!
Click to expand...
If it's all new and perfect, then it's likely elsewhere.
Has the brake system been empty of fluid? If so it could be air trapped in the shuttle valves or other galleries in the modulator.
 
So, decided to pursue this noise to the death!

Many trips round the block later......
Removed and checked for tight or free play in the slides. All good.
Checked everything tight. All good.

Used PScan to run a front brake bleed sequence. This involves following on screen instructions to press pedal and also makes the ABS pump operate. Several cycles and much buzzing and groaning from the pump and when completed tightend bleed valve.

No noise !! It's gone. So air trapped as above?? Air lock in piston? Who knows but one of the weirdest faults ever.

So sorted the brakes.

Back to the misfire thread as P0170 keeps coming back. Fuel trim. I'm suspecting the first O2 sensor is playing me up. Might explain the low power on hills.

I hate removing those things, might take the manifold off and do it that way. Anyway, thanks for all the support. Back to the misfire thread !!
 
Last edited:
andyfreelandy said:
So, decided to pursue this noise to the death!

Many trips round the block later......
Removed and checked for tight or free play in the slides. All good.
Checked everything tight. All good.

Used PScan to run a front brake bleed sequence. This involves following on screen instructions to press pedal and also makes the ABS pump operate. Several cycles and much buzzing and groaning from the pump and when completed tighted bleed valve.

No noise !! It's gone. So air trapped as above?? Air lock in piston? Who knows but one of the weirdest faults ever.

So sorted the brakes.

Back to the misfire thread as P0170 keeps coming back. Fuel trim. I'm suspecting the first O2 sensor is playing me up. Might explain the low power on hills.

I hate removing those things, might take the manifold off and do it that way. Anyway, thanks for all the support. Back to the misfire thread !!
Click to expand...
Glad you got it sorted 👍 yeah you never know what it might turn out to be with modern cars.
 
andyfreelandy said:
So, decided to pursue this noise to the death!

Many trips round the block later......
Removed and checked for tight or free play in the slides. All good.
Checked everything tight. All good.

Used PScan to run a front brake bleed sequence. This involves following on screen instructions to press pedal and also makes the ABS pump operate. Several cycles and much buzzing and groaning from the pump and when completed tightend bleed valve.

No noise !! It's gone. So air trapped as above?? Air lock in piston? Who knows but one of the weirdest faults ever.

So sorted the brakes.

Back to the misfire thread as P0170 keeps coming back. Fuel trim. I'm suspecting the first O2 sensor is playing me up. Might explain the low power on hills.

I hate removing those things, might take the manifold off and do it that way. Anyway, thanks for all the support. Back to the misfire thread !!
Click to expand...
Sounds like it was air in the modulator then. I've had a similar issue myself in the past on my MG ZS.
Glad that one is sorted.


On the misfiring engine, can you get the long and short term fuel trims to display on your diagnostic? Ideally the long term trim needs to be as close to zero as possible, large + or - values would indicate a fueling issue, or a fuel feedback issue.
 
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