Recent content by Wesley Pegden
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I did big time, couldn't reach feck all after I fitted 'em in my old hybrid. Sat there almost held captive in my own motor.
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Trouser area would seem to contradict this !!!!!
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Yes mate, that's it in a nutshell.
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In the back of my old series 2, I fabbed some up from 80mm x 80mm RSA with a drilled plate (8mm) that spanned the tub corners at 45 degrees. You can see them in my pic.......
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I once had a distributor pinch bolt clamp that had stretched just enough to bugger my timing after reset as it wouldn't quite tighten fully on the clamp (as the faces had met) but it had tightened on the nut and bolt fully.
Worth considering perhaps.
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Good sound advice which just about sums it all up for competent DIY.
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The clarke 150te is adequate and trusty, my mig is a ERP 150 turbo (re-badged sealey) and it does the job for me although I use my arc welder if the steel is thick enough without burning through. As for a mask, true fusion will do a reasonable one (variable shade with spare lenses for about...
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All I can suggest is to measure the hole centres for the spring mounts then check the dimensions are correct against a chassis diagram, as jamesmartin points out, it could be an incorrectly placed mount from previous work.
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Weber is probably sucking air in on the spindle, my old series 2 weber did this and that was fine with a little choke too.
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I agree, rear mounted would be better with the engine, gearbox and the rest of the Landy in counter balance.
Perhaps an "A" frame jib fabbed up from maybe 80 x 40 shs, pivotting on at the least m24 high tensile bolts from lugs on the rear cross member with "dog leg" stops resting up against the...
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If you can, remove the arm from the steering relay located in the front cross member of the chassis, this may give you some degree of movement on the wheels and there's a good chance that the seizure may be in the relay.
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