BennehBoy's D2 adventure

Erm, Nope, I've already got half of td5 engine in the shed when I don't own a td5

Plenty of lube on that hone Benneh and don't go mad with it. Just enough to get rid of any glaze on the bores.

I once did a Honda Sooperdreem with not enough lube and ended up from well within tolerance to just short of re-bore territory. Oops!

Did my FJ1200 a few years back properly and after the hone it was still within factory tolerance for new engines and that was after 80,000 miles.

How many miles has the engine done?

120000 but no idea how tough it's life had been prior to me buying it at 87K It's had quality oil and filter changes every 6 months to 5000 miles since with me, and I'll be increasing the frequency to every 3 months from now on.

The receipts I got with the car showed the purchase of a head gasket, fitting set and dowels on Jan 12 2010. There's then receipts for a new gasket and a remanufactured head for 25 Jan (from Bridge cylinder heads who I know are a good bunch), so I figure he fitted a new gasket and had the same issue, removed the head and bought the recon unit.

Receipts from the 25th include plastic dowels referenced separately but no sign of head bolts, so wonder if he reused them from the first swap - can't see why he would have bought two HG's if he didn't actually refit the head the first time.

There's a receipt for glow plugs 9 months later, something I'd have swapped with the head - but who knows, cash coulda been tight.

To be fair, I've added a fair amount of performance mods, so the HG failure is probably down to me.

That is not a high mileage, mine is nearly 80,000

Not much done today, had a tool tidy up - they were all over the place - need to get a wheeled cabinet to go under my tool box, just got too much crap these days.

Also gunked the engine bay, bell housing, and ancillaries then jet washed them - looks a lot cleaner but it's hardly going to win any detailing competitions.

Later today should be getting cracked on cleaning the valves and seats, lapping them in, and replacing the stem seals.

Seats cleaned, there don't appear to be any problems with them...


Valves cleaned, stuck them in a hand drill and got scotchbrited them (padded the collet ends so the jaws wouldn't mark them):


Think if I knew somewhere that could cut them back in well I'd do that rather than lap them, but I don't so they'll just get a very light lapping to avoid turning them concave.

Nearest is probably these in Cas Vegas -> http://www.vintage-engine.net/services.html

Even if you got the seats re-cut and used new valves, it's still best practice to lap them in with a dab of fine paste. Just a minute or so per valve would do it.

Bennehboy said:

Seats cleaned, there don't appear to be any problems with them...

Valves cleaned, stuck them in a hand drill and got scotchbrited them (padded the collet ends so the jaws wouldn't mark them):

Think if I knew somewhere that could cut them back in well I'd do that rather than lap them, but I don't so they'll just get a very light lapping to avoid turning them concave.

Nearest is probably these in Cas Vegas -> Vintage Engines In Elstow Bedfordshire - T & L Engineering

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those valves def need lapping in,they are glazed etc,wont take long and you will then know the valves will have good clean seals.

Just when I thought there couldn't be any more tedious jobs..... along came valve lapping!

Do these look OK or do I need to go at it longer? The contact area on no 1 exhaust was very small when I started out, so gave it some what for to match it with the rest.

1 & 2:


3 & 4:


5:

rub valve in clean and dry and if good youll have a thin unbroken shiney line on seat and valve ,valves and seats are usually cut a degree different ie 44 and 45 , modern seat cutters like a serdi need no lapping, depends how yours were done

10 is easy, last rebuild I did was 24

ok,to test each valve.put a TINY drop of clean oil on each valve seat,place it in the head and turn it on revolution backwards then forwards,you should get a complete black line on the valve,if yes then the seat is good,if not re lap it.each to their own though.way i was taught in college.

jamesmartin said:

rub valve in clean and dry and if good youll have a thin unbroken shiney line on seat and valve ,valves and seats are usually cut a degree different ie 44 and 45 , modern seat cutters like a serdi need no lapping, depends how yours were done

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Umm what's clean and dry fella? Google turns up some womens VAG wash lol http://makeupandbeauty.com/clean-dry-intimate-wash-review-2/

I read about different angle cuts, apparently they do this to hammer the faces to the same on first run!!!

mji said:

10 is easy, last rebuild i did was 24

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gah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

gemsdad said:

ok,to test each valve.put a TINY drop of clean oil on each valve seat,place it in the head and turn it on revolution backwards then forwards,you should get a complete black line on the valve,if yes then the seat is good,if not re lap it.each to their own though.way i was taught in college.

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Ta will try...

But...

Why a black line?

Bennehboy said:

Umm what's clean and dry fella? Google turns up some womens face wash lol - I read about different angle cuts, apparently they do this to hammer the faces to the same on first run!!!

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seats wiped with solvent ie petrol on a rag

Bennehboy said:

Ta will try...

But...

Why a black line?

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that shows it is a complete seal,if not a complete line then seal no good.

jamesmartin said:

seats wiped with solvent ie petrol on a rag

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Ah lol - sorry!

Bennehboy said:

Ta will try...

But...

Why a black line?

Click to expand...

paste washed out by oil