Exhaust welding and accelerator linkage

I think I've got all the bits for my Weber DMTL conversion lined up. Last things to do will be to fit the defender down pipe and rig up the linkage to the bell crank.

I think I've got a plan for the bell-crank but not sure about the down pipe.

My plan was to fit new exaust manifold and leave both old and new pipe in place then mark both where to cut then overlap them for about 1" and weld the outer to the inner on the bench...

Will that work? Am I better off trying to butt weld them somehow. Will the step in the exhaust cause crap performance. Am I best doing the join close to or far away from engine?

Any advice or experience would be really appreciated

Hope it all works or its a bloody long walk back!

D

Butt welding is easy with a Tig, not so easy or neat with a Mig, depends on your level of skill. If you can get one inside the other, it's a little easier, but keep the amps really low.
Another option maybe is the flexible exhaust pipe, I have it on mine, it works a treat

Thanks, I might go for bits of flexi when I widen the rest of the pipe. For now I'll try and sleeve them.

I never got that far last night. Spent a couple of hours polishing bits of manifold mating surfaces and then trying to figure out how to reverse the throttle bell crank so that it pushes up instead of pulls down...buggered if I can work out how to do it without cutting....got hungry and put the old manifolds and carb back as I didn't fancy an eight mile walk...

Well my welding's not that crap after all! The actual pipes were the same diameter so I've had to butt join them. It was just the fixing collar that was different. I just mated the ends up best I could clamped em and kept welding until there were no more holes, flap-disced it flat and rechecked. Seems to have worked. I could have just cut the collar off and welded that back up but it was half a dozen of one/six of the other.

Accelerator linkage I gave up on and robbed the throttle cable from my rotting TR7 and bodged up a bracket and bolt with a hole in it through the passenger side of the linkage mechanism and chucked the bell-crank and linkage.

Just been for a test drive and it goes like **** off a stick! A load of grease on the parabolics has made it handle nicer too!

Well pleased, even though the cable throttle feels odd. I will either have to learn to behave myself or win the lotto to pay for the extra fuel.

Just a few problems with exhaust manifold and middle pipe leaks to sort, with new rockers it sounds great but quite angy breathing through a foam filter instead of the oil bath. I'll put the oil bath back but will need to make a different top-hat for the carb.

This is the best thing about landys, there's always something that needs fixing and more things that you'd like to do but for each outlay of effort there is usually a worthwhile return!

If anyone is interested in doing this swap let me know and I'll take some piccies

the geometry can be altered on accelerator rods levers ,if a lever 90 degrees it moves the next more ,60 degrees less if you know what i mean

aye, i'd got that after drawing a load of sketces. With it starting 90 degrees on it gives about 1.6" of pull and the carb needs 1.25. so, 1/4" of slack before it starts and a bit over for stretch seems about spot on.

The feel thing is more that you need a bit more weight on the pedal to move this carb which means I was tending to ride it a bit hard. Is definitely better going over bumps as it was easy to kangaroo before...

Ta

D

Very good, it's great when a plan comes together isn't it..
I was gonna suggest a cable for the throttle, but didn't think you'd have a problem figuring that one.....