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StuRox

Well-Known Member
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Nr Bath
After getting the mot retest done at lunch time.....drove home from work and ABS light comes on.

Switched off and back on but the light stays on....stamp on the middle peddle and wheels lock up, so its right...no ABS.

Now to try and dig out the codes and use a paper clip to see what is 'now' wrong :rolleyes:
 
Look at it this way - she held on to it just long enough for you to get a fresh ticket before admitting there was a problem -thats got to be worth a wash and a new air freshener, right?! :D
 
Look at it this way - she held on to it just long enough for you to get a fresh ticket before admitting there was a problem -thats got to be worth a wash and a new air freshener, right?! :D

:D

But wouldn't be nice to at least have a few months with no problems to enable you to actual do fun stuff with them instead.....
 
Hehe but you can - is skidding uncontrollably not fun?? :D

She's a Landy after all, be reasonable ... ;)

If it makes you feel better mine failed the MOT and will need its first welding when I come back from easter holiday, so by taking the p*ss Im really just trying to cheer myself up!
 
I took the ABS bulb out 2 MOT's ago (just passed again end of Feb) don't really see where the problem lies here.

I don't think I've ever taken a disco to the mot station with an abs bulb in.

There wouldn't be any abs models left on the road if it were not for testers not familiar with the way they stay on until you move over 5mph.
 
What is this paperclip test you speak of?

here you go:-

Mine's the same, took mine to an ABS specialist who told me that all I had to do was hammer the sensor withe a blunt instrument back into place! Did not try it myself, but did watch him do what he said. I have however, found some info on the web that gives you the info on which component is causing the problem. Easy to do but not had time myself to try it. Here is the info, also covers Range Rover, if after you have read this and your still unsure, please, please, please do not try it, get some expert advice.

ABS Diagnostics

But there's an easy DIY way to read and reset these diagnostic codes. And you don't need a testbook computer - all you need is a bit of wire, or a paperclip!

There is nothing new in this document. All I have done is gathered together various other Internet documents, and added some notes on where the various connectors are on my Discovery. Many of the internet document relate to US-spec vehicles, where the components are located elsewhere.

My Disco is a UK-spec 1995 300 TDi XS.

The ABS ECU itself is a standard Bosch/Wabco part. If you do some googling, you'll find that the same techniques and codes apply to many other vehicles that use this unit.

First of all, we need to find the ABS warning light relay. On mine, it's in the passenger footwell, under the glove compartment. Lever out the 3 press-in studs, and the trim panel can drop. There are half a dozen relays in there. The one we're looking for is (on mine!) nearest to you, but in the second row, "behind" some others. Difficult to explain, but obvious when you get in there. The relay bases slide onto brackets, push them about an inch "away from the wires" and they'll come free.

The one we're looking for has a green base, and has 2 black wires, 1 black/green wire and 1 brown/red wire.

Disconnect this relay - pull it out of the socket.

Now we need to find the ABS diagnostic connector. This is where I struggled. All of the internet info says it's a blue connector under a seat, but that's just on US-spec vehicles. Rave says it's a 5-pin connector near the fuse box. But I couldn’t find that either. I believe that earlier (pre-95) models used this, but later ones moved it to the main diagnostic connector. This is a 16-pin socket, located under the steering wheel, just above the clutch. You don't need to remove any trim panels to get to it - although you may want to pop out the panel it's mounted on - it's not immediately clear how the pins are numbered, so look at the colours of the wires.

The 2 pins we're interested in are pin4 (black) - ground, and pin15 (red/green) which goes to the ABS unit. If the internet sources are to be believed, the abs diagnostic wire may be black/pink on some models, and on the 5-pin connector we're interested in pins 2 and 5. But this has not been verified.

You need some way of bridging the 2 pins. A paper clip or a piece of solid-core wire is ideal.

Now, we're ready to go.

Make sure the relay is disconnected. Turn on the ignition. The ABS warning light should come on, as usual.

Bridge the 2 pins on the diagnostic connector.

After 5 seconds, the ABS warning light should go out. It will then flash a pattern. From this, we can obtain the 2-digit fault code.

first of all there will be 2 slow flashes - one longer than the other, with a gap of about 2 seconds.

Then the interesting bit. The lamp will then flash, at about one flash per second. Count these flashes - that's your first digit.

Then a pause

Then it will flash out the second digit.

This sequence will then repeat indefinitely (start, digit 1, digit 2).

If you disconnect the link when the lights are flashing, it will clear the fault. Reconnecting it will show the next stored fault. If you have patience, you can read out and clear the entire contents of the ABS memory.

In my case, all of the stored fault codes were the same - 2 flashes, then 12 flashes. So you look up 2-12 in the table below, and find "air gap, right hand front wheel speed sensor." This ties in with my own experience - I know that re-seating that sensor will temporarily cure my fault!

Hope that someone finds this information useful.

Bruce.


The following table was obtained from

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=landrover_abs_ecu_fault_code_identification
 
Well just done the ABS blink test, and fault code of 1-2 came up - cannot find any info on this - tried to clear the memory but wouldn't shift it either.

So removed front ABS sensors, as thinking they may have come out slightly when I have been bashing it to hell recently to change the Track Rod Ends, so cleaned them up, back in, and still no ABS with the light on.....any ideas anyone?
 
Wonder if I can put a kill switch on the wiring, as ABS is a pain when off roading??

Years ago I had a rover 827 with abs, useless in the snow etc. I just pulled the abs fuse out, put a lucar connector through a fuse holder and switch, this allowed me to switch the abs on and off whenever I wanted. It did not store any faults and the abs operated as normal when the switch was on.
Hope this helps
 
Its looking like I am going to pull the bulb out as I can't seem to find out what is wrong.

On the plus side this removes the need for a kill switch!
 
Done a bit more searching and have found this...

blink test codes

So going from that its the "Sensor B (L1) Sensor speed jump"

Any ideas what that means and how to cure it?
 
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