worried about my engine

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@raywin.
I am not knowing at all but am interested (possible Nanocom purchase coming)
Could I ask how much you can do with the viewer, it seems to me that something different is happening at 9-10 sec on your logs, and because of this the scales all go screwy? Meaning you are not seeing the low values.
As in you previous logs the scales shown on the left are all low numbers.
So not sure if you shortened the log time to not include the last sec then you would see something similar as to what you had previously.
Not helping you with your problem sorry just curious :oops: to learn.

J
 
@raywin.
I am not knowing at all but am interested (possible Nanocom purchase coming)
Could I ask how much you can do with the viewer, it seems to me that something different is happening at 9-10 sec on your logs, and because of this the scales all go screwy? Meaning you are not seeing the low values.
As in you previous logs the scales shown on the left are all low numbers.
So not sure if you shortened the log time to not include the last sec then you would see something similar as to what you had previously.
Not helping you with your problem sorry just curious :oops: to learn.

J
Not 100% sure but I think you are looking at the 1 minute part of the time scale.
What happen is the engine had ticked over for 4 or 5 minutes then I made the settings to save a file in the Nanocom, i.e. give it a name ant hit the save buttion, then I put it safe on the passenger seat and fastened my seat belt, so the engine was on tick over for the first minute of the readings, then I reversed out of my drive and that is when you see the readings pick up as I drive down the road.
 
Ok mins I see now.
But still what ever happened and 9.5ish mins has screwed with the scales and stopped you be able to see the low values properly, I am just guessing here, just very interested in Nanocom abilities

J
 
Ok mins I see now.
But still what ever happened and 9.5ish mins has screwed with the scales and stopped you be able to see the low values properly, I am just guessing here, just very interested in Nanocom abilities

J
Its virtualy the opposite of the first minute, I arrive back home, pull into the drive and leave the engine ticking over while I unfasten my seat belt, and hit the save on the Nanocom so very low readings as it is ticking over.
 
Thanks.
Would be handy if a fellow member could log same data to compare.
Anyway I will get out of your hair and hope you solve the problem:)

J
 
Unfortunately i'm not familiar at all with that kind of graphs and for me they seem quite hard to understand, the excel table which shows all the readings together is more explanatory cos it's possible to see the interdependence of readings and it's important to see the TPS - RPM - MAF - MAP algorythm on the same line if you see what i mean
 
Unfortunately i'm not familiar at all with that kind of graphs and for me they seem quite hard to understand, the excel table which shows all the readings together is more explanatory cos it's possible to see the interdependence of readings and it's important to see the TPS - RPM - MAF - MAP algorythm on the same line if you see what i mean
I have added here both the old file when it was running "better" APR3
And the one I made yesterday, B040218
If you had time to look I would value any input
Had to make a zip file or it would nort accept the upload.
I have also added a graph showing the RPM, Road speed and Air flow

upload_2019-2-5_8-19-49.png
 

Attachments

  • B040218.zip
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I'll be interested to see the outcome of this if you solve it. My TD5 is a bit smoky and has been since the autumn. Aside from that, I've not noticed any problems with performance - it will still belt along if required to do so, and the smoke clears after a while as the engine warms up. It was fine for the MOT at the end of May, but I wonder how it will fare at the next one.
 
I'll be interested to see the outcome of this if you solve it. My TD5 is a bit smoky and has been since the autumn. Aside from that, I've not noticed any problems with performance - it will still belt along if required to do so, and the smoke clears after a while as the engine warms up. It was fine for the MOT at the end of May, but I wonder how it will fare at the next one.
I have always wondered about my engine, It had one of those clip on performance chips when I bought it but I quickly took it off, last MOT was a close run thing and they told me to give it a good dose of injector cleaner, then the real problem started, can’t say for sure that was the true cause but it seems to be a bit of a coincidence.

The tail pipe on my exhaust has always been very sooty and it may sound obsessive but I check other defenders to see how sooty theirs is, looked at a three year old Puma engine the other day and you could see the bare metal, unlike mine ( see picture)

I will try and share all of the story hopefully it may help someone

tailpipe.jpg
 
I have added here both the old file when it was running "better" APR3
And the one I made yesterday, B040218
If you had time to look I would value any input
Had to make a zip file or it would nort accept the upload.
I have also added a graph showing the RPM, Road speed and Air flow
All i can see from those logs is that the engine is low on power, the high values of idle speed error under load are sign of weak fuel supply or restricted air, can be the pump or a restriction somewhere, i've seen cases when the strainer under the FPR was clogged or the FPR didnt work well

make a short drive test with the air fiter removed and put a new good brand fuel filter too

btw aren't the turbo hoses delaminated?
 
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All i can see from those logs is that the engine is low on power, the high values of idle speed error under load are sign of weak fuel supply or restricted air, can be the pump or a restriction somewhere, i've seen cases when the strainer under the FPR was clogged or the FPR didnt work well

make a short drive test with the air fiter removed and put a new good brand fuel filter too

btw aren't the turbo hoses delaminated?

The turbo hoses are silicon, but they are on my check list ( when weather is better) boost gauge shows pressure but might be just a bit low, but maybe that is down to the turbo not getting full exahust gas with the lower power.
I am going to order a new fuel filter, and I already have air bleed valve from the fuel filter head unit, I also found a site selling the actual red rubber non return valve so I ordered one.
Fuel tank pump is whining when I get back from a run so I am suspect the injector washers may be leaking gas into the fuel line, I think that has to be my first port of call, I can look at the injectors check in the bores ( I have ordered a cheap Borscope) and see if there is any clue in there.
 
the correct dosage can also be very corrosive if left in the system to long regardless of the size of the tank

for example if the engine is parked up while your laying in bed of at work etc this correct dasage is still laying with in the fuel system and injectors

unless one is planning to use up all the 75 litres of fuel in a day or 2 this all depends on the current status of your fuel system

Is this also true of the Millers fuel additive?

It's sold to increase the combustion of the diesel, but also cleans the injectors somewhat, I've bought the bottle but haven't used it yet!
What have you guys found using this? I'm slightly concerned now having read this thread! Be grateful for any input!
 
Is this also true of the Millers fuel additive?

It's sold to increase the combustion of the diesel, but also cleans the injectors somewhat, I've bought the bottle but haven't used it yet!
What have you guys found using this? I'm slightly concerned now having read this thread! Be grateful for any input!

I don’t know about millers but I’ve never read a Redex label in my life I just pour the whole bottle in a tank (or half a tank if that’s what’s in it) and forget about it. I’m fairly sure they don’t do anything at all
 
I have always wondered about my engine, It had one of those clip on performance chips when I bought it but I quickly took it off, last MOT was a close run thing and they told me to give it a good dose of injector cleaner, then the real problem started, can’t say for sure that was the true cause but it seems to be a bit of a coincidence.

The tail pipe on my exhaust has always been very sooty and it may sound obsessive but I check other defenders to see how sooty theirs is, looked at a three year old Puma engine the other day and you could see the bare metal, unlike mine ( see picture)

I will try and share all of the story hopefully it may help someone

View attachment 169097

Erm mines jet black :confused::oops: inside and the tip. Yours looks spotless by comparison

Cleaner does nothing noticable i ran 4 bottles of redex (dirt cheap offer from costco) ran the same.

However i ran 3l of low ash 2 stroke oil (200ml per tank) and noticed increased MPG and less smoke.
 
Is this also true of the Millers fuel additive?

It's sold to increase the combustion of the diesel, but also cleans the injectors somewhat, I've bought the bottle but haven't used it yet!
What have you guys found using this? I'm slightly concerned now having read this thread! Be grateful for any input!
and injection cleaning process does not take long
this vid is just a rough giude
 
Erm mines jet black :confused::oops: inside and the tip. Yours looks spotless by comparison

Cleaner does nothing noticable i ran 4 bottles of redex (dirt cheap offer from costco) ran the same.

However i ran 3l of low ash 2 stroke oil (200ml per tank) and noticed increased MPG and less smoke.

the 2 stroke oil trick has been used for years ..my td5 injectors are not exactly brand new they have 330000 k on them 2 stroke oil helps to unstick and take up the tolerance

injector cleaning will not restore worn parts
 
If your thinking of changing the copper washers buy LR ..I’ve just changed mine and one of the bearmach washers leaked and blew black smoke after a difficult time starting for a few kms..you have to make sure the seating inside the head is clinically clean one spot of dirt and it’s gonna leak ..first time allow 2 hrs ..need an injector slide hammer or a 6mm long shaft Allen key - some will pop out if your turn the engine over by hand once you’ve released the injector clamp and rocker shaft ..might be wise to get the injectors tested while they are out could be a sticky injector
 
Hi I wouldn’t put 2 stroke in your tank, I did this and a couple of months later number 3 injector pooped itself, just a heads up I’m no mechanic but just use diesel or dedicated cleaner like Forte
 
I changed the injector seals about 3 years ago using the britpart ones with a G serial number.
Not certain yet what the real root cause of the problem is, but the pump whining leads me to suspect the injector seals, as I said I will get new ones and anneal them first.
Not sure how corrosive injector cleaner could be, I was under the impression it was more of a solvent or detergent, I know for sure BMW sell their own stuff so it would be a minefield to sell corrosive liquid to treat their cars, anyone remember the problems with Vauxhall cars and Texaco diesel?
I hope to borrow a garage to do the work so maybe I might make progress this week and I will update on what I do and what results I get.
I bought one injector on e bay which was sold as overhauled by Jackson's diesel centre if there is no big improvement I will swap out one injector and look at how the injector balance is affected using nanocom.
Also ordered a new air purge valve for the fuel filter head and a new non return valve.
I also wonder about the fuel pressure regulator if it could have suffered by solvent attacking the diaphragm, I need to try and check the presure in the injector gallery in the head. Will have to find the thread size of the temperature sensor in the presure regulator and try to rig up a gauge.
 
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