wont start.....the sequel...

Just got in the hippo (2001 td4) and yet again it won't start, just spins over on the starter.

This time the car is cold and has been left overnight.

Ggggggrrrrrrr

check fuel delivery now
check leak back now

Both pumps appear to be working. Making a noise at least....

last time it wouldn't start, fuel was coming upto front pump, green flag man got covered when he took the pipe off. So fuel appears to get that far.

I can take of the leak back pipe I guess and ser if there anything coming out there...

Right heres something new.

Theres a fabric covered tube goes from the injector in the gearbox end, to the next injector, into a little T peice...to the next injector..an so on.

On the left hand injector, this goes down the from on the engine, next to a wiring harness.

I believed that this was the fuel return pipe.

I took the tub off the last injector, and attatcher the plasic tube from my new oil extration pump, the other end into a empty wine bottle wedged behind the nudge bar.

1. There was no fuel came out from the injector side.
2. The tube that goes down the front in the engine spewed fuel everywhere.

Is this the return pipe?
If so, why is fuel coming out of here and not coming from the injectors?

Is there a return on the high pressure pump that plumbing in to the same return back to the tank? Is this this where the fuel spillage came from?

A rather unconventional way of checking leak back but if you got no fuel at all from any of the injectors thats ok.

The pipe that disappears down the front of the engine is the return and yes other areas of the system return fuel into it. Normally this pipe is clamped during a leak back test.

There is a fuel pressure regulator (which cuts off the Hp fuel at ignition off) in the back of the injector pump. Perhaps there is a wiring issue there or the reg itself is faulty/sticking.
Failing that maybe the crank sensor?

?? You could crack open an injector pipe union on the rail to see if you can judge if you have decent pressure there but beware of high pressure fuel.

Chaser said:

A rather unconventional way of checking leak back but if you got no fuel at all from any of the injectors thats ok.

The pipe that disappears down the front of the engine is the return and yes other areas of the system return fuel into it. Normally this pipe is clamped during a leak back test.

Click to expand...

ooopsss, my bad.

Just working with the limited resources that i have.

Update :

Removing the air box top and filter and spraying easy start in gets it running.

Its failed twice to day and i started it that way.

Once its running it runs fine.

The guys at DCV did ay that it might be the HP fuel pump failling, when i picked it up. They recommended trying easy start when it fails. Its starting to look right they were correct.

Vertuas said:

Just working with the limited resources that i have.

Click to expand...

And nothings wrong with that.....

As faults develop they get easier to trace. Starting with easy start at least rules out a sensor issue and suggests fuel pressure at cranking as being the problem.

It this stage I wouldn't agree totally with a failing HP pump but would recommend removal of the pressure regulator to examine the seal on the end.

Ut appear that it won't start at all now, without the easy start.

It failed about 50% of the time yesterday and 100% of the time today.

if the seal that i'm referring to has gone it allows fuel to pass into the return line.

That makes sense, there was lots of fuel came the wrong way out of that return tube.

Is the seal difficult to get to?

Thanks

Remove the regulator from the back of the pump......the part with the electrical connection, 2 bolts........ IIRC hidden by coolant hose so requires starter removal.

On way to dcv, damn thing cut out.

It will start wil easy start, but if revs drop below about 1200, it just stops.

Waiting for green flag recovery truck.....

It's odd that there's no MIL.

Not sure if you checked the Hp sensor wiring without looking back on your other threads...

I just heard from DCV

The pump is producing less than 10% of the pressure that it should be when starting up.

they quoted some numbers at me, but i don't know where they are from (autologic i assume)

The pressure should be around 15,000 but is actually around 1,200 (I think he said Kilo Pascals). 15,000 kPa is just over 2000 PSi. thats alot!!!!

I have a issue with top end power for some time, couple of years at least, i wonder if that has been cause by a worn HP pump.

Will see what difference £600+ vat makes....for hippos there's Mastercard

Chaser said:

It's odd that there's no MIL.

Click to expand...

Nope its not been on. There were no code on the ECU either, last time it was in.

I though that something orange flashed on the other day and went of again, but i though that it was the traction control. It nothing that stayed tho.

Mine was giving a low pressure reading when one of the injectors went totally fubar, I'd check they've done a propper leak back test before they change the pump.

It's up to you but I wouldn't change the pump without first checking that seal. If the seal on the pressure reg has gone the pumps output is being lost into the return line so the pump could be fine.

Beware of them changing expensive bits first, this is a 'favourite' with Rover dealers when working on the M47 in the Rover 75. More than one R75 owner has had a none working vehicle returned to them with a bill for a couple of 1,000 pounds!!!

As the others have suggested, make sure the injectors are checked, along with the seal, before paying out for the HP pump, even the LP pump is worth a check if oyu've not already been there.