Won't go into gear

Good morning. Life sucks this week.
I have a Landrover 1.8 Freelander that is the Bain of my life.
This car has now basically ruined my summer as fixing it has eaten all my holiday savings.
I had another thread explaining the multiple issues with it and how I fixed them and I had a good run with no grief until last Sunday.
Drove to work fine and then about a mile into my homeward journey I found changing gear very hard then it wouldn't change at all. I could get into neutral but It wouldn't engage. I managed to get it into 3rd whilst coasting and when it started to move on power it made a grinding noise so I whacked it back into neutral. Then it would only engage gears if the engine was off.
Got recovered and did a little digging and noticed the hydraulic slave was leaking a tiny bit and the hose had wear points. The slave mount had a crack so I thought all is good I can change this and it will be done. I changed the mount and the full hydraulic system today. And guess what.... Still doesn't engage gears. Try to push the gear stick in but it won't budge.
Could this just be a clutch issue? And if so does anyone have a step by step for replacing it. Does the ird need to be drained and removed? Haynes says you need to move the exhaust I can't see how this would be needed. Does the gearbox need draining? Please help

I suspect that the new hydraulic system is either the wrong type of there is air in the hydraulic system. The air often needs to be expelled from the pipeline for the hydraulics to work efficiently.

It's a sealed unit so shouldn't need bleeding. I don't even think you can bleed them. I could be wrong

You can bleed them but as it's a sealed system, bleeding is done before fitment. The method used is to push the slave piston fully in while holding the master cylinder well above the slave. This then pushes any trapped air into the master's reservoir. Sometimes it takes some time for all the air to be expelled.

Could I not just do this by uncliping the clutch pedal and pushing the slave in?

Do I remove the top of the bottle?

Adam Gorsuch said:

Could I not just do this by uncliping the clutch pedal and pushing the slave in?

Click to expand...

I have had to pump the slave several times on occasion to get a column of pure fluid in the pipeline. Air naturally rises in fluid which is why the master needs to be above the slave.
No you don't take the top off the master reservoir.

Try hanging it up so the master is at the top did you replace or at least take a look at the metal plate that the slave fits to but when you got the grating it could be one of two things pressure plate or release bearing hope this helps

Make sure the release arm that the slave pushes against can move by hand - obviously not all the way, but isn't siezed. Drop a little oil on it where it goes through the bell housing.

Fingers crossed its just air in the system.

^^^^ as above- check for movement at the clutch operating arm !. Very unlikely to be air in the sealed replacement unit - any air in the system (unlikely) will rise when fitted - as for instructions -
Hope this helps


Best of luck mate

(or - were you asking for instructions on replacing the complete clutch ??)
If so, go by Haines or Rave - check lever arm first !!!!
Also - check if clutch plate is stuck to flywheel - put it into gear - press hte clutch (IF the arm moves - and try starting - it may be enough to break the seal - the friction plate can heat bond to the cover plate (and your old hydraulic system may well have not been freeing the unit properly causing a bonding - if it wont release - then it is gearbox out and new clutch.
Let us know if the arm is moving first !
Joe

Ok guys, the arm moves, the piston is moving. I've tried to start it in gear but all it does is jump forwards as if I'm trying to start it without the clutch down and in gear and it does move if I put my foot down on the accelerator. But without the clutch as soon as you brake it stalls. It's as if the clutch is stuck on. Managed to get it back on the drive and it out of gear as it got stuck in gear from being engaged at starting.

So new hydraulic system is working and it also had a new mounting plate. Still won't engage gears if engine is running. Pedal has a ribbed grating feel under foot which was there after it broke before the replacement hydraulics were fitted.

Hello Adam, it certainly sounds as if there is an internal issue now in your clutch - try starting it with the clutch down and foot brake applied - only occasional hits on the starter as you don't want to burn it the starter out - see if it frees it (it usually goes with quite a bang and is then free - BUT !!! do not over do it - if no joy, then I would say it is a gearbox out and clutch change - not fun !.- it could be broken fingers on the cover plate (which would possibly give a ribbed grating feeling as you describe it as the release bearing tries to run over the fingers - could also be release bearing issues or bent actuator arm - but i- still - n my experience it is likely to be thermal bonding. of friction plate to pressure plate. bit of a bugger really.
If you need the official service manual check my Signature. - PM me and give me the year of the vehicle and I can let you DL the RAVE service manual (official).
Anything else you need just ask and the guys here will help.
Again, best of luck mate.
Joe

Is this with it in gear?

Yup, first or second gear, clutch down, foot brake applied - hit the starter but do not hold the starter on - let it 'knock' a few times and see if it disengages if a thermal bond - again - do not overdo it - just a few knocks of the starter - maybe 8 or 10 - then call it a day.
Let the starter cool as well - it is very hard to describe - it is something you just know be experience - AND = it may not be the cause at the end of the day- but that is what I would do. - sort of click (small knock at the same time) a bit like a hammer on the clutch with the starter.

It is sounding like the release bearing has failed, however you need to eliminate the actuator mechanism first.
Can you get a helper to press the clutch pedal down while you watch the release lever. It should move as the pedal is pressed down. Also how much free play is there at the pedal before the lever starts to move?

Tried that. Nothing. It just rocks forward making a horrid noise. No Big Bang. Gets stuck in gear and then I have to tune the ignition to get it out of gear.

Sorry Adam Mate, next logical step is clutch replacement,
Not the end of the world ! - but not a walk in the park either.

Joe

I'm gonna need the guide then... :-(
It can't be worse than the HG!

PM Me - tell me the year as well !
I can sort you out with the info.
Best wishes mate
Joe

Adam Gorsuch said:

I'm gonna need the guide then... :-(
It can't be worse than the HG!

Click to expand...

Sorry mate, it is.
I changed the clutch in my K series and it was a big job. If you have plenty of time to do it then it isn't too bad though. Here is the thread I started and there should be plenty of useful info in it.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/k-series-clutch-replacement.296104/
Good luck