The Freelander clutch change is only a bit more long winded than doing a Rover 45 clutch. The box is the same and you need to drop the drive shafts on those too. You need to get the front of the car about 18 inches of the floor, giving room to slide the box out.
Basically you have to remove the IRD from it's normal position. This is so you can pull it's splines from the gearbox. The front suspension needs semi stripping to allow room for the drive shafts to be pulled out. I'd completely remove the left front suspension as it makes room to get the box out. There's no need to remove engine mounts but you will need to support the engine on the gearbox end of the sump, using a trolley jack. This allows you to adjust the hight of the engine, giving wiggle room.
Remember that the box weight is about 30Kgs so some assistance is needed. I always put some thick carpet under the box to give it a soft landing, should it get dropped.
Refitting is basically a reversal of the removal procedure. However before fitting the box you need to clear and lubricate the box input shaft and the nose slide. This helps prevent the bearing from sticking when the clutch is released. All clutch contact points points need lubrication with a Moly based grease. These are the bearing slide, the fork ends and the release shaft that often goes stiff.
In fact the lack of correct lubricant on these points is often the cause of the judder in the first place.
I've some pictures on this subject somewhere. I'll look them out later.
+ 1 as easy as a rover.
In short:
Top stuff first:
Battery and airbox/ducting off,
Remove earth cables and clutch pipe/cable from arm using waterpump pulley pliers
bellhousing bolts and starter removed ( note leave easily accessible one bolt in and tight as a failsafe)
Remove gear linkages
Loosen gearbox mount ( But dont remove bolts yet)
Loosen engine mount ( wont be removing just allows more wiggle in the thing)
Bottom stuff:
Slacken drive shaft nut if you can get to it through wheel centres if using a big breaker bar ( car in gear/brakes on)
Jack car up as high as you can get it safely with axle stands.
wheels off
shaft nut off
Bottom ball joint out and moved to one side
shafts out (catch oil with something)
If possible get a gear box shaft plug as this will reduce oil leak once shafts are out but also stop the diff from moving
Remove IRD ( with help)
remove rear engine/gearbox mount (not the top one!!)
remove lower bell hosing bolts ( the lowest one may be covered in mud etc so might need uncovering it is there I assure you)
remove flywheel cover ( 2 x 8mm nuts if its still fitted)
block off wood under the engine on a trolley jack and same under gearbox
Undo the top gearbox mount bolts
lower the gearbox side trolley jack so gearbox and engine drop
carefully on the right hand side
undo the top failsafe bellhousing bolt then wiggle the box till it comes loose on the splines then with help slide it backwards on the jack and lower to the floor in the engine bay with carpet as Nodge says
No need to completley remove the box from the engine bay as once you jack up the engine on its own without the box it allows easy access to the clutch and flywheel and the gearbox and clutch arm from the bottom to do as nodge says and grease up the arms and contact points
Just a rough guide It's been a while since I've done a K series and never took photos when I did one so will defer to Nodge if he can find his
She put a wheel into a verge while passing an oncoming car on a narrow road and went into a tank slapper and through a wooden fence. I don't care though cause she is OK and no big harm done, A friend of hers was killed last week under similar circumstances.
