Who knows about roller shutter doors?

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Flossie

Flossie

Well-Known Member
Posts
11,052
Location
Shropshire
I've got an electric rsd on my old garage that's being knocked down, hoping to remove the rsd this weekend.
I want to fit the rsd to my new garage when I've built it later this year. The new garage will have a narrower opening (so I'll need to cut the door down) but a higher opening (so I'll need to add more 'slats' .
If anyone knows about this sort of thing and can advise id be grateful.
I'll post some pics up later.
 
How much narrower?
Our door side runners are on the back of the opening so width not an issue.
How much extra height?
You would need to reset the stops in the motor part,and I am not sure the spring spools will allow too much extra height. If it rolls into a box do you have space inside?

Our door went all out off level and it was because the spring had snapped at the end, that was fun fixing that:mad:
I am sure they make the woman do it on a vid I watched to lull you into it being easy:):oops:. But then that’s another story.

J
 
Not sure on measurements yet.
Prolly 750mm off the length and 400 mm more height.
Mine fits between 2 pillers, no box, it rolled up into a brick void above. Now demolished , pic of where I'm at.
1552042575831213905223.jpg
 
Yours is of a different design to mine.
I taking a guess that you have long spring looking springs in there and they wind up, think they have 2 one for up and one for down balance, ( does that make sense?)
Mine are the clock type flat spiral type wind spring. I am pretty certain mine wouldn’t take an extra 400mm ht
As for the width shortening the actual door would not be a problem but it’s the insides that might restrict it.
But you could always fix across the back of the new opening with tracks.

Think you may have to investigate further inside.

Oh and the tool it’s for adjusting the thingy bob on the end of the do hickey, so you may need it:)

Can you get extra slats?

J
 
That little tool is to adjust the open/close limits.
Should have a hex hole to + -
Would say is a new door easier?
Ours is a large Door & it's made out the insulated slats
Opening 8ft 20ft wide fully electric & remote.
 
Extra slats, dunno,i only started thinking about it a few hours ago:oops:.
I've looked closer at the drive end and I can see the tube has been cut quite badly and the motor bit rerivited back in.
The end plates have also been welded to the rsj lintel so more work than I thought to get it down.
Once it's down I'll be able to see better what's what.
 
[QUOTE="marjon, post: 4501330, member: 14718
But you could always fix across the back of the new opening with tracks.

J[/QUOTE]
I can't fix it inside or outside the opening unfortunately without reducing the length still.
 
Well that might resolve the decision on which way you go. You could also end up with another one of them scars to talk about:eek::(

I can only access my motor when the door is down so at that point. The spring is wound up and loaded:eek:.
But I can work on the motor because of the weight of the door and a brake.

But then we have a different design, I think.

With your design (and this is I think) door up/down the springs are balanced so no weight on motor, so maybe it won’t do anything if you drill out.

This could be real interesting:eek:
Please note I am not responsible for any advice given here:)

J
 
Wot he said above - be careful with the springs, which IME are to take the weight of the door whilst it gets opened, thus relieving the strain on the "opener" - Usually me, here, but you're all posh with electrickery ... a properly balanced door should be almost no effort to open or to close....

The way I dismantle a manual one is as follows:- ( this is how I do it - YMMV, and be careful! )

Open the door, and remove the side "C" sections. ( normally bolt on )

Close the door and secure the opening chain.

The door can now be split into pieces by "springing" the side clips/runners, and sliding the slats off the remaining door...or drilling pop rivets out if necessary...

Continue until only the top slat ( or two ) remain in place...

Undo the top slat from the spring drum, and using the chain, unload the springs in the drum ( by "opening" the "door" - you could count the number of revolutions of the drum whilst the door was in place )

The door drum springs should now be in a "safe" neutral/balanced state, and it should be possible to remove the drum from the mountings without getting bitten

We've got four manual ones here, all installed by SWMBO and I. However, I've never been involved with an electric one, so I may have made it all up o_O - in which case, ignore me :)

Apart from the bit about being careful ....;)
 
Hicap phill said:
Can you film this for us @Flossie
So we can use for reference.

That little tool you found earlier points to the motor been in the tube.
You have to wind the motor up for tension before fitting the slats
So inside the tube could be a coiled spring ready to attack.

Make sure the camera is a good distance away for better results
Click to expand...

Also so the docs can work out the order in which things became detached from people ...

Please, take care and if possible cover stuff with heavy sacking or carpet to slow the take off speed of springs etc.
 
:eek:.
I assumed, probably wrongly, that it would be a motor with a splined shaft or gear meshing with something inside the tube -simple like.
It has no chains just a toggle thing hanging down near the motor that can be used to open or close the door in an electrical outage using a long cranked scissor jack handle type thing.
The slats look like they are held in with twisty toggle things.
 
Flossie said:
:eek:.
I assumed, probably wrongly, that it would be a motor with a splined shaft or gear meshing with something inside the tube -simple like.
It has no chains just a toggle thing hanging down near the motor that can be used to open or close the door in an electrical outage using a long cranked scissor jack handle type thing.
The slats look like they are held in with twisty toggle things.
Click to expand...

You might be able to un-toggle some slats to see if the motor will wind the rest off of the drive channel ... that'll just leave the dangerous bit ...
 
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