Which v8 camshaft?

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Automania

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Apologies if there's been a previous thread on this, I've tried the search button but it's not great when using tapatalk.
I'm soon changing the engine in my 90, I'm putting a recon 4.0 p38 engine in it and using an early serpentine front end to run a dizzy. So I'll need to replace the camshaft for one with a dizzy drive on it, question is do I go with a slighty more torquey cam or just stick with a standard. The rest of the engine will be standard, at least for the time being with possibly the exception of a Holley/webber carb and manifold.
Also any opinions on lightened/balanced flywheels? I'm sure I read that a lightened flywheel is only good for "power" for a quicker response, whereas the heavier normal flywheel helps when offroad?? Can't remember if I read it correct though?
Any opinions much appreciated. Cheers mike
 
I only fit piper cams in all my engines and would properly recommend the piper 270i for a carb or injection engine give 30ish bhp.
On the flywheel front unless rest of the engine has been balanced and lightened just doing the flywheel will not give that much of a gain
 
there are a few cams that are a basicially a straight swap (preload shimming checked)


these are all pretty much the same spec

Real Steel's Hurricane, JE Engineering's JE101, Progress Engineering's RC87, RPI's RP4.

these cams keep the power band in a much better range for off road, the 270 that Vogue suggests will give more power but at the expense of low down grunt and because the 270 is a higher lift cam you'd be advised to get about0.1inch removed from the top of the valve guide and usedouble springs to avoid coil bind, bounce and resonance.
 
POAH said:
there are a few cams that are a basicially a straight swap (preload shimming checked)


these are all pretty much the same spec

Real Steel's Hurricane, JE Engineering's JE101, Progress Engineering's RC87, RPI's RP4.

these cams keep the power band in a much better range for off road, the 270 that Vogue suggests will give more power but at the expense of low down grunt and because the 270 is a higher lift cam you'd be advised to get about0.1inch removed from the top of the valve guide and usedouble springs to avoid coil bind, bounce and resonance.
Click to expand...

very interesting piper has this as a advised straight swop apart from the preload check never noticed a loss of grunt though most of the engines i do also have the mid valve and porting work done before fitting.

though on the last 2 engines i did i only did the preload without any issues
 
Automania said:
Apologies if there's been a previous thread on this, I've tried the search button but it's not great when using tapatalk.
I'm soon changing the engine in my 90, I'm putting a recon 4.0 p38 engine in it and using an early serpentine front end to run a dizzy. So I'll need to replace the camshaft for one with a dizzy drive on it, question is do I go with a slighty more torquey cam or just stick with a standard. The rest of the engine will be standard, at least for the time being with possibly the exception of a Holley/webber carb and manifold.
Also any opinions on lightened/balanced flywheels? I'm sure I read that a lightened flywheel is only good for "power" for a quicker response, whereas the heavier normal flywheel helps when offroad?? Can't remember if I read it correct though?
Any opinions much appreciated. Cheers mike
Click to expand...

I have a stealth cam variant from V8 Developments - which is just awesome

...Give ray or shaun a call really helpful nice guys......

V8Developments Ltd.


More Balance = good! If your doing your fly wheel, don't forget clutch and mass damper.....

..I did everything on mine crank pistons, conrods and had everything dynamically ballaned... Results are great, but cost v's benefit is dubious (I originally planned engine to go into a sports car so wanted revs with power but had a change of plan at last minute which ment it went into a LR)

My point is with ballance you could chuck a lot of money at it for little benefit - I would spend cash on head work to go with your cam!

Lightened fly wheels can be a massive pain in the rear as they make engine revquicker, but make it easier to stall. Good for sports cars, not so good LR's.
 
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Does Anybodyhave experiences with the With following RPI cam products:

1. RP4 - said to be only for EFI, is it not possible to use this with carbs?
2. RP85 - have very high value lift of 0.450" does it require any modifications if bolted on
3. Found this on e-bay (Rover 3.5 V8 Piper Camshaft Morgan Engine Timing Vernier Cobra SD1 Dax TVR MG | eBay) any experience or advise?

I have 110 3.5 V8 with carbs which I'm about to get overhauled and thought it would be good to get little more power, hence what is best sulotion in regards to power vs reliability.

All comments welcome :)
 
get a set of Peter burgess econotune heads. will give you around 30hp. more expensive than a cam but better power gains.
 
Why dont you start with a bigger engine? If your going to the trouble of doing that work to a 4.0 (really a 3.9 with a 4 bolt main) it would be as easy to start with a 4.6 and get 225bhp to start with and build from that? I guess maybe you have the engine already?
 
I've got a Kent H180 for my 4.6. I'm planning to install tonight, so I can't tell you anything about the result, but it was the one I chose. I'm told it is a straight swap - fingers crossed - and should improve power by about 20bhp and fuel economy at the same time. I'm also assured it ticks over happily and delivers an improvement in torque lower down the range.... For me it is the low rev performance that is more important than something that has naff all at low revs and delivers a massive power slug above 4-5,000 - my boy racer days are long gone.

Fett - I gave £250 (ish) for mine. I know cheaper ones are available, but I was seduced by the supposed improvement in fuel economy.... I was getting 12mpg from it before I laid it up for the current work...!
 
Thanks Poah & V8hotrodboy - I'm not really looking at increasing engine capacity but rather sticking with my 3.5 trying to get little extra kick out of it, I'm not looking for lots of power just want to be able to follow traffic on the Kenya mountain roads :)

Also thought of the weber 500 carbs - expensive but nice - maybe with the econotune heads. Just too exspensive......looking for most cost efficient way of getting extra power but maintaining reliability
 
V8Safari said:
Thanks Poah & V8hotrodboy - I'm not really looking at increasing engine capacity but rather sticking with my 3.5 trying to get little extra kick out of it, I'm not looking for lots of power just want to be able to follow traffic on the Kenya mountain roads :)

Also thought of the weber 500 carbs - expensive but nice - maybe with the econotune heads. Just too exspensive......looking for most cost efficient way of getting extra power but maintaining reliability
Click to expand...


with your carb 3.5 you might want to consider the Oselli RV8255 cam
 
fett said:
each? vat or no vat?

how much power they give?
Click to expand...


Stage 1 Cylinder Heads - V8 Tuner £600 including VAT a pair


peter burgess econotune heads are £734 including VAT a pair

both are approx the same spec

blended valve throats, standard ports, 3 angle valve seats


approx 30hp increase on a 3.5

if you go further with the head work you'll increase mid to top end but loose a bit of low end due to the bigger valves


I'd not recomend anything major head wise with the 3.5 on a landrover though.

could see 210-220hp with a stage 1 head, cam and 390cfm carb that still has the low down torque. You could go for more but you'd loose the low down torque and idle that would make a landie undrivable lol
 
using a 3,5 efi as a base my plan is to fit it with a 3.9 cam , prst and polish it my self and mybe fit 10.5:1 p6 pistons- depending on whay I decide its final use is.

I know the 3.5 efi heads are way better then the carb ones and been told they are the same as 3.9 heads

Just gonna keep it cheap using second hadn bits
 
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