which engine oil is best?

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Ah, right, no probs - cheers charlesy.

Will look into this TUO gear :D
Checked my oil today at 6,000 miles run, and 82,000 miles on the clock,

It is CLEAN, CLEAR (can see the writing on the stick through it) and a nice golden colour.

Might change is next month.

Might not.
 
Im having zero problems after a few changes on Halfords classic, next I'll look into this sonic (it's cheaper anyway) and I'll also look at TracUniv because maybe then I can plonk it in the mota, the transfer and the axles.

I'd been using enhanced mineral oil, but just received a load of sonic I ordered recently. just done oil changes today in both off roader and road RRC, so will report back if anything untoward happens!
 
Checked my oil today at 6,000 miles run, and 82,000 miles on the clock,

It is CLEAN, CLEAR (can see the writing on the stick through it) and a nice golden colour.

Might change is next month.

Might not.

yeah mine too CharlesY ...the dipstick on my lpg 3.9 after 9000 mls, as you say - might change it...but probably not.
i got to thinking about engine oils and filters so did some research then downloaded a great paper written by a Mr Jim Fitch, one of the worlds greatest tribologists - it is brilliant.
will carry on reading it and let you know what gems i find
 

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yeah mine too CharlesY ...the dipstick on my lpg 3.9 after 9000 mls, as you say - might change it...but probably not.
i got to thinking about engine oils and filters so did some research then downloaded a great paper written by a Mr Jim Fitch, one of the worlds greatest tribologists - it is brilliant.
will carry on reading it and let you know what gems i find


Clean combustion!

When I change my oil in the Disco TD5, I drain it into a clean container, then tip it stright into the fuel tank.

7 litres @ £1.30 = £9.10 saved.

Bet your gas-machine can't do that!
 
yeah mine too CharlesY ...the dipstick on my lpg 3.9 after 9000 mls, as you say - might change it...but probably not.
i got to thinking about engine oils and filters so did some research then downloaded a great paper written by a Mr Jim Fitch, one of the worlds greatest tribologists - it is brilliant.
will carry on reading it and let you know what gems i find
Just because oil is not dirty does not mean that it does not need to be changed. That is the problem with LPG engines, the oil looks clean so people do not change it.
 
Do you think if I pour the used oil into my v8 disco tank I will get any benefit or jug end up smoky and smelly?

I NEED to find a solution for cheaper running! :D (not LPG btw!)
 
Do you think if I pour the used oil into my v8 disco tank I will get any benefit or jug end up smoky and smelly?


smoky and smelly I am sorry to say, and then it will stop due to oiled spark plugs.

I NEED to find a solution for cheaper running! :D (not LPG btw!)


DIESEL engine, and run it on used oils.

ANY sort of oil will be fine as long as (a) it is properly FILTERED, and (b) it isn't too THICK.
 
Yeah thought so charlesy, I really don't want a diesel though!

I'll manage on the spirit for now :)

I can buy today, 1,000 litres of methanol in a pallet-crate for £350 or so, that's 35 pence a litre.

If I had a spark ignition engine (especially a fuel injection one, I would try a 50-50 mix first thus £1.30 + 35p = £1.65 for TWO litres, = 82½p a litre.

If that worked nicely, then I would increase the proportion of methanol to 75%, three parts of that to one part of petrol.

Bio-fuel ... Probably legal.
 
Are there not side effects of methanol though? Apart from the watery eyes and headache, I thought top fuel dragsters run meth when petrol will no longer provide.

Is it something to do with flame time?

Either way, would my land rover not dislike the methanol in there?

Again, I'll do some research.

There are no doubt lots of threads about people wanting to run meth for performance, so there must be info on requirements etc.

Hmmm :)

Cheers!
 
Make the mixture RICHER, and advance the timing to suit.

Where's the problem?

Half-in-half with petrol might be just fine.

If you run a engine very hard on methanol the exhaust side gets hot, but in normal driving, not so as you would notice.
 
As far as I can see, meth requires about 9:1 air fuel whereas petrol is 14:1, and meth requires a lot more advance, about 20 odd degrees, as it burns much slower so needs more advance for good power.

Thus, you need to rejet the carbs and adjust the dizzy.

You can also start on petrol from a small tank and then change to meth when warm. Would run very rich on petrol but would suffice.

Doesn't look like you can mix meth and petrol because the amount of water in the meth prevents them from mixing nicely.

No real reason why you couldnt run on pure meth once you sussed it.

The over-rich Efi system might run it outa the box!

Cherrs
 
what about my 72 on twin SU'S- would that run on methanol?


What is a 72?

I know a bit about SU carbs. What type are yours? HS2? HS4?

SU carbs are ideal for methanol-petrol mix fuels because the jet needles are so easy to get and to change.

You would want a THINNER needle to make the mixture richer.

I wonder if I can find my old SU needle charts?
 
its a 1972 RRC , I am not sure what SU's they are , how would I tell? look on the tags? I am sure I wrote that down somewhere :doh: if not I could have a look at the weekend.

so will it run on methanol with nothing more than an needle change needed? whats it like for power better or worse?

will it disolve anything in my system?
 
apparently it can attack rubbercomponents, and is not too clever on galv i think...?

much higher fuel rate required i believe.

most engines will run 10% etahnol straight out.

not sure what it would take t run more meth/eth

experimenting required.

good alcohol engines are high compression.

hmm :(
 
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