which alternator and does it need changing?

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T

The DJ

New Member
Posts
82
Location
yorkshire uk
Hi there

I have a 2.0L TD4 53 2003 3 door kalihari auto with AC blar blar blar

one of the bigest mistakes yet was to get this to replace my old 2000 2L DI but ..
this weeks problems are:
(and I have seen similar to this all ready)

Driving along the charge light flickers and then for no reason the guages drop and the dash lights come on. and then back to wroking again.

I have been to see an auto electrician and he says the alternator is gong High voltage

when the light flickers a lot and the power drops out It is often reading 16v plus across the battery rather then 14.15v when all is ok.

But it only does this under certain driving conditions.. If it is being driven hard it is ok it only fails in sort of normal driving conditions. and most often when coming out onto the road and up the hill from where I live

I have decided that the alternator regulator is going faulty causing the over voltage and then the shut down of the electrics (radio, dash etc)

Does this seem right to anyone and if so is the alternator a 100A, 120A or a 150A unit?

also where is a good place to get one from and also seeing as I need to do this work I may as well replace the radiator so are there any good places to get one of thees too?


cheers

ed
 
Cheers I havn't striped it down yet I need to get around this week for work etc.

I am hoping to borow a car for a few days so I can get mine in pieces and find all that I need

ed
 
Have you checked / cleaned all of your connections?? Have a look at the battery terminals, main body earth and engine earth and also the red lead coming from your alternator.

Might be worth removing and taking to a local auto centre for testing.

I'm afraid I dont know the diesel ones well - I know there are different types with vacuum pumps??

In the past I have repaired lucas A127 Alternators (ranging from 85 to 100 amp) with spare parts from ebay. There are loads of chaps selling brush packs and regulators.

See if you can get a free disgnosis from your local motor factors.

Also is your battery in good condition?? I had a battery that would start a car of mine (non LR), but would not run the radio for longer that 20 mins. It would drop to 9v and the alternator would pump 15v to charge it. New battery solved my issue here.

Regards,

Steve
 
Hi there

Cheers I have cleaned all the conections introduced extra neutrals all around the body and direct to the radio, bypased the ignition on the live side so that there is a definate live to all the accsesory and other sections. and guess what...

On tick over it is great. 14.2v rev it up and the same but under certain driviing conditions it then goes 16v 17v + and then powers off.

I have been told there are over voltage sensors that shut the ECU and hence all the other electrics off in the event of voltage of 18v and higher just to stop it getting fried. Is this true?

hopefully this new alternator (when it arives) will fix it and if not then I'm 120 quid down and still anoyed

ed
 
The DJ said:
I have been told there are over voltage sensors that shut the ECU and hence all the other electrics off in the event of voltage of 18v and higher just to stop it getting fried. Is this true?
Click to expand...

I cant answer that im afraid.

I would try the new alternator if you have one as it sounds like the problem lies here.

Regards,

Steve
 
The DJ said:
Hi there

I have a 2.0L TD4 53 2003 3 door kalihari auto with AC blar blar blar

one of the bigest mistakes yet was to get this to replace my old 2000 2L DI but ..
this weeks problems are:
(and I have seen similar to this all ready)

Driving along the charge light flickers and then for no reason the guages drop and the dash lights come on. and then back to wroking again.

I have been to see an auto electrician and he says the alternator is gong High voltage

when the light flickers a lot and the power drops out It is often reading 16v plus across the battery rather then 14.15v when all is ok.

But it only does this under certain driving conditions.. If it is being driven hard it is ok it only fails in sort of normal driving conditions. and most often when coming out onto the road and up the hill from where I live

I have decided that the alternator regulator is going faulty causing the over voltage and then the shut down of the electrics (radio, dash etc)

Does this seem right to anyone and if so is the alternator a 100A, 120A or a 150A unit?

also where is a good place to get one from and also seeing as I need to do this work I may as well replace the radiator so are there any good places to get one of thees too?


cheers

ed
Click to expand...

Phone LR dealer and speak to parts department to see if you can get the voltage regulator separatly, they will need your chassis number to do a chassis filter on their epc ( electronic parts catalogue ) to get the right one. At this time you can ask them what ampage the alternator is as it will probably tell them on screen. Why do you need a new rad? camberley auto factors are probably your best bet for quality as i think they use valeo ones.

Riggaz
 
I noticed a gradual drop in coolent and whilst I had the front bumper off to fit extra lights noticed that there was a large quantity of brown goo on the left hand side of the radiator and a gradual drip leak. I guess the previous owner tried to fix it with soome radweld or somthing

ed
 
The DJ said:
I noticed a gradual drop in coolent and whilst I had the front bumper off to fit extra lights noticed that there was a large quantity of brown goo on the left hand side of the radiator and a gradual drip leak. I guess the previous owner tried to fix it with soome radweld or somthing

ed
Click to expand...

Make sure you use a fierce fluch and get all that crap outta there before fitting the new rad
 
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