Wheel wobble

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I've taken shims out of the swivels without jacking up.

This was an emergency measure to take the play out until I got the parts to renew.
I took all shims out of both sides before the play was eliminated, steering was better and not stiff and no play when trying to 'rock' the wheels.

Only drove it a week like that but it was perfectly ok and nothing untoward when I did eventually jack it up to do the axle.:)
 
pulling it apart was fine, it was getting that sodding spring to stay in place when i pushed the plate up and stuck the circlip on.. slip.. slip... slip

*AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH*

Then to find the droparm lip was worn, so the boot slipped off and then the bottom fell out after a year :lol:

I may have moaned about this before. The disco setup seems good. :tea:

Aw no I was talking about changing the drag link lol. I read about changing the drop arm balljoint and how bloody awkward it could be so I elected to get my usual garage to do it
 
It only took me about half an hour to change the drop arm ball joint!

Socket, jack, circlip pliers and a hammer.

Simples :D
 
It only took me about half an hour to change the drop arm ball joint!

Socket, jack, circlip pliers and a hammer.

Simples :D

If i hadn't swapped it for a disco setup, i would have drove to tynemouth and let you do it for a few beers. Think the last time took me half a day of cursing. :D

Though you probably would have refused.. you coming from the wrong side of the tyne and all that..... as i dance away on the sand ;)
 
If i hadn't swapped it for a disco setup, i would have drove to tynemouth and let you do it for a few beers. Think the last time took me half a day of cursing. :D

Though you probably would have refused.. you coming from the wrong side of the tyne and all that..... as i dance away on the sand ;)
How jolly dare you sir? Refuse beer?? :eek: FFS!

Being an ex-pat Yorkshireman, if they are paying I will drink with Sand Dancers, Makkems, Geordies, Jocks and Taffs, or anyone else for that matter! :beer2:

In fact I would probably be able to introduce you to some of the wonderful range of Real Ales available locally! Wylam, Tyne Bank, and Cullercoats brews to start with! :5bcheers2: :5bcheers2:

Back on track, the secret is to keep it all clean!

As I've had to change a few over the years, when I put anything back together I give everything a good external coat of Vaseline ... :D
 
Been a while since I've rebuilt swivels on a Series truck, but the items I remember replacing were:

Swivel seals
Lower swivel bearing
Railco bushing
(depending on wear) upper swivel pin

I've never ordered shims - typically have more than enough in the parts bin to handle the changes needed between the old and new.

Cleanliness is required here - you do not want random grit and crap floating around in there. Also, expect you will have to dismount the swivel itself from the axle to press in and out the Railco and the bearing race.

al richer
 
Been a while since I've rebuilt swivels on a Series truck, but the items I remember replacing were:

Swivel seals
Lower swivel bearing
Railco bushing
(depending on wear) upper swivel pin

I've never ordered shims - typically have more than enough in the parts bin to handle the changes needed between the old and new.

Cleanliness is required here - you do not want random grit and crap floating around in there. Also, expect you will have to dismount the swivel itself from the axle to press in and out the Railco and the bearing race.

al richer

That sounds dificult
 
I believe that the steering balls are basically the same on Fenders and Discos, so if they are, try removing a couple of shims first.

However, if you are rebuilding the lot, for each side you will need:
1/. 1 x Lower taper bearing
2/. 1 x Railko bush
3/. Selection of shims

Simple job and not a lot of parts required.

The easiest way would be to remove the wheel, then support the swivel pin housing, complete with brake disc and caliper.

Remove the top and bottom pins and the whole lot should swing out of the way. and allow access to the Railko bush which will knock out quite easily, and the taper bearing will be loose once you have removed the bottom pin.

Replacement is the reversal.
 
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if its got original front axle on a d redg (thicker drive members )and removing a shim or so ,so that it loses freeplay but isnt to stiff and notchy to move by hand ,if you google da2211 it will show you what you need ,it would mean stripping wheel station back to chrome ball and any seals like swivel seal ,hub seal replacing along with gaskets and wheel bearings would be worth looking at ,at the same time ,bottom swivel pin never needs undoing to strip or replace both top bush and bottom bearing ,a spring balance /fishing scale is used to set amount of shims needed when setting up new bush and pin
 
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