What to look for in a FL2

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LePen

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Hi Gents,

I am in the market for a FL2, and I have in fact found one its a 2010 with about 50k on the clock 2.2 manual HSE spec. All sounds well and good but this will be my first Landy so I just wanted to put the feelers out and see if there is anything I should be looking for when I head down to view the vehicle. If someone has already written a comprehensive list of things to check when buying and can direct me there that is great also.

thanks in advance guys
 
Whilst I can't help on what t look for, are you able to maintain yourself or would you be using a garage?
Hopefully it's a decent car as they are nice to drive and good on fuel.
 
As others will say. Service history, they do have a couple of weak points. But lots of info on this site to guide you. have had mine 8yrs now. Apart from rear diff, has been a fab one. Last couple of years had been used in my plumbing business instead of a van.
 
Make sure the items that LR say don't need servicing for 10 years, or 150k miles have been done. This includes the timing belt, Haldex service, rear diff oil, PTU oil, gearbox oil, coolant, and brake fluid.
If not then factor the cost of doing the work into the purchase price.

On the test drive, make sure it's quiet, without any whining noises from the drive train.

Check for rust on the front and rear subframes, and rear wheel arches too, and make sure all the toys inside work.
 
Currently I don't have great garage facilities but that being said I am not mechanically stupid, I do work on motorbikes myself so outside of major things I should be capable.
I am moving house early in the year so a good garage is a must for me
Is there a list from LR for 10 year/150k service info?
how terrible are part costs on the FR2? any reccomended part suppliers for the UK?
 
Welcome to the Asylum, Monsieur LePen!
You may wish at some point to go to the Introduce Yourself part of it and tell us a bit about yourself.
I keep it quiet, but I'd quite like a Freeloader, but I have to be careful as I have too many LRs anyway and a FL can't tow as much as I need.
There are some on here who really love them, so you'll be OK for info.
Best of luck!:):):)
 
LePen said:
Currently I don't have great garage facilities but that being said I am not mechanically stupid, I do work on motorbikes myself so outside of major things I should be capable.
Click to expand...

All maintenance tasks on the FL2 can be done by a competent owner/DIYer. It's nothing special in that regard, just normal modern car type stuff.
The timing belt is easy enough to change, but it does require special tools to lock the cam and crank (not very expensive), but you might want to get that done. The engine is a PSA/Ford unit anyway, so no need to have that done at an LR specialist, in fact the whole vehicle is a hotchpotch of parts from various European manufacturers, so there's little that's actually LR on it at all. The FL2 is a close cousin to the Volvo XC60, which itself is mainly derived from Ford components, but with some Swedish flair added.

There's an on-line manual available, which a couple of members on here have links too, Hippo being one IIRC.

Parts aren't terribly expensive, but avoid cheap aftermarket parts, as most are just that, cheap.
OE components are the way to go, and most aren't much more expensive than the cheap aftermarket stuff anyway.

I use Advanced Factors in Southampton (they're on Google), the prices are competitive, the delivery is prompt, and they're LR enthusiasts, so only sell parts they'd use themselves. ;)
 
I'll be sure to get over to the introduction part in a sec and introduce myself :)
I would normally opt for OEM parts over aftermarket (as long as the OEM parts don't suck that is) so good to know they are a stockist.
I'm assuming most of these tasks such as the timing belt are covered in said manual?
as I said earlier I have only ever worked on motorcycles but I'm sure a lot of that knowledge can transfer over.
If we assume the FL2 I am going to see all sounds and checks good but with little paperwork lets say, I'm guessing the place to start would be changing all my fluids and then working round that list of other items you have mentioned Nodge68?
or is there a stand out part I should dive into servicing first?

thanks again guys
 
LePen said:
If we assume the FL2 I am going to see all sounds and checks good but with little paperwork lets say, I'm guessing the place to start would be changing all my fluids and then working round that list of other items you have mentioned Nodge68?
or is there a stand out part I should dive into servicing first?
Click to expand...

Look at any paperwork, and see what has been done.
The Haldex needs regular fluid and filter changes, much sooner than LR suggest, or it fails. The rear diff and PTU also fail, so those need fluid changes too.
It's best to replace all fluids at 30-40k, then you'll be doing all you can to ease future issues.
The timing belt is pretty long lasting, often showing no wear or damage at 10 years/150k miles.
However the SD4 belt change interval was reduced to 7 year's and 120k IIRC, presumably because of the higher RPM the engine might be run at? I'm not sure the exact reason for the drop, as I don't believe the long interval causes belt issues.

The manual shows how to do everything on the FL2, however finding your way around the manual is often harder than the job you want to do. :eek:
 
Well I am going to see and test the vehicle this Saturday so all things crossed its in a half decent condition.
I have spent most of my free time in work compiling videos and things on haldex, rear diff and front diff (front being the PTU right?) and all the fluid changes ect, I am confident I can do all this work with little stress, just need to get hold of some good jacks and stands, any recomendations?
the timing belt I think I will have changed as soon as/if I get the car, probably wont tackle that one myself though so any idea of rough cost in the UK to have that changed? just a ballpark figure if anyone knows?
the car supposably has full service history upto 36k so thats a bonus.
 
LePen said:
Well I am going to see and test the vehicle this Saturday so all things crossed its in a half decent condition.
Click to expand...

Hopefully it's in nice condition, but don't over pay for it, as the HSE isn't so popular as a manual, so the price will be lower than an equivalent auto HSE.

LePen said:
ront diff (front being the PTU right?) and all the fluid changes ect, I am confident I can do all this work with little stress
Click to expand...

The front diff is in the gearbox. The drive for the RH front wheel, comes from the diff in the gearbox, and passes down a long shaft, right through the PTU input shaft (which is a large tube with splines on the outside), through the PTU itself, then out to the front CV joints.

LePen said:
just need to get hold of some good jacks and stands
Click to expand...
Get a decent trolley jack, with a good lift range, and a wide saddle on the top. Get stands which are tall enough, and again have a good size size saddle. Obviously both need to be capable of dealing with the 1870 Kgs that the Freelander weighs.
 
Nodge68 said:
Hopefully it's in nice condition, but don't over pay for it, as the HSE isn't so popular as a manual, so the price will be lower than an equivalent auto HSE.

any particular reason the manual is not favoured over the auto? for me its an mpg thing, as far as I am aware I should get better mpg's on the manual, I pan do do a lot of hauling upto Scotland in the winter with it for hiking ect so I am trying to get the balance between decent mpg and capable 4x4
Is there a particular code reader that would be recommended? and where would I find the port for said reader?
Nodge68 I would send you a direct message with the vehicle advert but for you to cast your clearly experienced eye over but I have no idea how to direct message on here
Click to expand...
 
Interesting thread, thanks everyone.
I'm thinking of getting a Freelander 2 soon as well, and feel I've a decent handle on the main issues. But a few I've seen for sale have noted some corrosion on the front or read subframes (or both), so just wondering if anyone can share:
a) how easy / difficult is it to replace those DIY (on a driveway rather that full workshop)?
b) any estimate it might cost to get a garage to do it?
c) if that's likely a sign of worse corrosion elsewhere...or are the subframes usually the worst of it on a FL2?? As read that otherwise corrosions isn't too much of an issue (unlike chassis on Disco2 for example)??
Thanks - any thoughts / knowledge appreciated.
 
megd said:
I've seen for sale have noted some corrosion on the front or read subframes (or both), so just wondering if anyone can share
Click to expand...

Unfortunately it's a common issue, so are even failing MOTs due to rusty subframes. Mine are also rusty, which has been noted on the last 2 MOTs.
It's possible to replace the subframes, but it's a fair amount of work, the front being more work than the rear.

The body is pretty rust free, it's just the subframes which are the main issue.
The rear wheel arches are another rust spot, but cars some rust early than others here.
 
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