What have you done to your Landie today.

moonie said:

Can I utilize this thread for an
'aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggghhhhhhhhhh'?

Replacing UJ's - irksome beyond belief!

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wotcha mean - its a peace of ****.

The Mad Hat Man said:

wotcha mean - its a peace of ****.

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I wish. It took over two hours to **** the old UJ out the front propshaft - the circlips were seized solid. Even broke my Brother-in-law's vice in the process that's how stuck they were.

Fettled down the wee burrs and wear on the propshaft sockets to fit the new UJ. Filled the cups with grease to stop the needle-bearings from coming oot but still managed to knock some out the first cup I was knocking in - cue bearings all over the sodding garden. :doh:

Finally got all four cups on but one side was resolutely not going in far enough to reveal the groove which the circlip goes in - and the circlips that came with the crappy replacement UJ's were thick bastards. Knocking that end in far enough resulted in the other end coming out. Finally with severe persuasion got the end far enough in to get a slightly filled down circlip in.

Pain in the proverbial, now refitting the prop. Still got the rear propshaft, which looks even more seized, to go........

Well that's the front propshaft refitted. Everything greased (including me - absolutely maucket), new nuts and bolts. Just the sodding rear one to do now, meh.

lol i burnt me self badly on the bloody thing

cut off a rusted bolt and it fell in a hole in me jeans so went down me leg still red hot fooking break dancing under the car

had mi new tyres fitted,and its a lot smoother now!

Made a pumped filter for my waste vegetable oil and cold filtered about 40 litres. Running close to 100% now (just the bit of diesel that was left in the tank.) It was a bit sluggish starting this morning, but there was a mild frost so it was pretty cold.

All I need now is some sort of float switch so I don't have to keep going back to check when the jerry can is full.

this do ya?

Nice shiny things site. A vertical one that can go through a lid would be easier to fit.


| Process Control | Fluid Management Control | Level Sensors, Switches and Indicators and Accessories | Vertical Float Switches

Donkey question: Will this switch a 60 watt pump to turn the pump off when the container is full?

theshanclan said:

Donkey question: Will this switch a 60 watt pump to turn the pump off when the container is full?

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Yes.

Switch ordered.

today I've striped the back end of the disco i bought yesterday... 93 and the foam in the boot was still in there..not much rust on the boot though...just the wheel arches

both front swivel balls and wheel bearings, brake pade tomorrow,

Fitted my new steering guard, thought "hmm, only a ten minute job".

In the end I was laid under the lady at 1900 doing the job by the light of a headtorch.

1 hour 30 mins to get that chuffing bolt out without damaging it!



Tonight....snorkel

Well I'm learning, slowly - rear propshaft repaired, greased and refitted with stainless metric bolts - not quite as painful as the front (of course, there is more room to work at the back).

Next is to check the rear driver side drum for binding as this was an advisory on the last MOT.

Main thing, is it's driveable again.

moonie said:

rear propshaft repaired, refitted with stainless metric bolts .

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I wouldn't use stainless bolts on a propshaft. Stainless bolts have significantly lower shear and tensile strength than the proper ones.

Treworgey 90 said:

I wouldn't use stainless bolts on a propshaft. Stainless bolts have significantly lower shear and tensile strength than the proper ones.

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Wot e said ....

Not worth skimping, get the proper nuts and bolts.

In general stainless bolts, if they're the wrong grade (which they invariably will be 'cos it's not an application that's likely to have been tested to determine the grade) can elongate more easily than 'normal' bolts and are more affected by vibration so simply aren't worth using.

If you're using them 'cos you think they'll be easier to undo i future then also think again .. they can cold-weld and will be harder to undo than totally rusted 'normal' bolts.

Fitted my DickyBates height adjustable towhitch. painted rear crossmember & wired towing sockets in. Both 12s & 12n Piccies later cos I'm off out now..

why would ya need stainless for anyway with the amount of oil and grease splattering around under a landie it aint going to rust now is it !

Tonight ah stripped the top half of the dash out of the white bus. Then ah drilled off one of the vent screens and removed the wiper moter and boxes. Next ah made a template for the wiper motor to go on the new bulkhead...



drilled the holes and stuck in a couple of rivnuts...








Then ah fitted the motor and marked out and drilled the holes for the wiper boxes...

Paul D said:

Wot e said ....

Not worth skimping, get the proper nuts and bolts.

In general stainless bolts, if they're the wrong grade (which they invariably will be 'cos it's not an application that's likely to have been tested to determine the grade) can elongate more easily than 'normal' bolts and are more affected by vibration so simply aren't worth using.

If you're using them 'cos you think they'll be easier to undo i future then also think again .. they can cold-weld and will be harder to undo than totally rusted 'normal' bolts.

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I just wanted to replace the old rusty bolts with new ones in metric so got some at the local tractor depo. I think they might be zinc-coated, not stainless - fecked if I know the difference.