What have you done to your Freelander today

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Stripped and rebuilt the brake light switch as it was arcing out and blowing the fuse, very random fault
 
Skinny Mike said:
The synergy chip was like adding after burners! I started on setting 3 but the gear box didn't like that so had it on setting 2 until I had the problems. Loads of torque most notable when pulling the caravan, felt like it wasn't there. Now on settings 1 as we use the Jeep now to pull the tin tent. This gives a smooth drive and fuel economy is 36mpg ish generally upto 45 mpg on a long run, as we live in Yorkshire which is all hills I don't think that's bad. Used to be 30 upto 37 before the chip . Yours is a newer face lift model which has a different program on the auto (some intermediate speed sensor isn't there) so you could probably run a higher setting. Mike
Click to expand...

The Jatco box has a maximum torque limit of 300Nm. I suspect this is easily exceeded with the Synergy 2.
Well worth doing more frequent fluid changes when running nearer the torque limit.
 
Well Friday took the engine sump guard tray off for repair after a pervious owners bodge job,
fixed jet washed off and as good as new. But now I've found an small oil leek between IRD and
main rear prop shaft :(
 
freelandy2004 said:
Well Friday took the engine sump guard tray off for repair after a pervious owners bodge job,
fixed jet washed off and as good as new. But now I've found an small oil leek between IRD and
main rear prop shaft :(
Click to expand...

I have the same leak.

Do you have the sump guard in pieces? mine is missing the black cover and I could do with someone very kindly tracing a template as I want to make a replacement for it.
 
I have the same leak too and presume it is because the VCU was almost solid before I fixed it. I suspect it caused a lot of strain on the rest of the drive train. I was thinking of replacing the seals on the IRD while I have it off to replace the clutch but not sure which seals to buy. Anyone know?

Rimini-Scott said:
I have the same leak.

Do you have the sump guard in pieces? mine is missing the black cover and I could do with someone very kindly tracing a template as I want to make a replacement for it.
Click to expand...
My sump guard is off already so I'll try to do something for you in the next day or two.
 
Rimini-Scott said:
I have the same leak.

Do you have the sump guard in pieces? mine is missing the black cover and I could do with someone very kindly tracing a template as I want to make a replacement for it.
Click to expand...
sorry I did on Friday morning as the previous owner decided to drill out the rivets holding the black cover to frame and the presumably bend it down to do an oil change rather than undo a few corroded bolts and then refix with cable ties :( but now all riveted back together and refitted
 
Nodge68 said:
The Jatco box has a maximum torque limit of 300Nm. I suspect this is easily exceeded with the Synergy 2.
Well worth doing more frequent fluid changes when running nearer the torque limit.
Click to expand...
Yes, that would explain alot, after a quick conversion, 300nm is about 221ft-lb. Setting 3 would be over this and setting 2 just under. This would have exerted too much pressure on the box, setting 3 changed with a thump, setting 2 was mainly ok but could explain the 5th gear issue. But it's on setting 1 now, so should be OK and still get the benefits. Cheers for the info. Mike
 
Skinny Mike said:
Yes, that would explain alot, after a quick conversion, 300nm is about 221ft-lb. Setting 3 would be over this and setting 2 just under. This would have exerted too much pressure on the box, setting 3 changed with a thump, setting 2 was mainly ok but could explain the 5th gear issue. But it's on setting 1 now, so should be OK and still get the benefits. Cheers for the info. Mike
Click to expand...
I'm sure I've got the torque limit of the Jatco correct. It's been years since I read it but from memory, I'm sure it was 300Nm and not 300Ftlb. Being a Japanese box, the rating would likely be in Nm. I don't know what part of the box limits to torque, but logic says the clutches would likely slip first. This would cause lots of heat and burning of the friction faces. Burning is relatively easy to spot when the fluid is changed.
I'd change the fluid more often when running nearer to torque limit anyway and use a better quality fluid than the LR stuff.
 
Brought a Donor Car :)

00008086.JPG
 
Alibro said:
That's looks far too good to be a donor! Wots wrong with it?
Click to expand...
It is really, If I had the room I would keep it and look for another donor - 200000 miles, oil flooding out of everywhere, clutch gone, no brakes.... That's just what I discovered on the drive home. For £535 it's a bargain and will keep my car on the road and looking good for a fair few years and I might make a few pounds out of it as well - Happy Days
 
I bodged the wife's freelander.
Got the door card off and wedged the glass up. The duck tape was becoming unsightly and the earache was unbearable
 
dandd said:
I bodged the wife's freelander.
Got the door card off and wedged the glass up. The duck tape was becoming unsightly and the earache was unbearable
Click to expand...
Why bodge it? A full regulator with motor is around £35, WO motor £25 and if it's only the cable a kit is under a tenner.
Less than an hours work to fix it and look at the brownie points. Or at least no more earache
 
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