Other what have u done on ur disco today

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Magicgrotto said:
Yes you can ! you need to break the cover apart & inside you will find a motor & a ratchet bar ! it will only be the Brushes in the motor that are cracked but you can't buy them separate:mad: so you have to buy a new motor :rolleyes: £1.50ish of flee bay ! you have to check that you have solderer the wires on the right way round or it dunt work (ask me how i know:rolleyes:) Tape it back together & away you go! Simples :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

how do u know ref the motor wires :p:p:D:D

the great zutec of wisdom has surely couldn't have made an error

i refuse to believe it :rolleyes:
 
Magicgrotto said:
:eek: Who Me :oops: Never :rolleyes::rolleyes:
Get back in yu CORNER:mad::p:p
Click to expand...

and if i said NO ,
IMG_0518.GIF


:p:p:D:D
 
finally got my keys cut today

thks to @bankz5152 for the recommendation

went to the one in green street green

only cost £20 to have 2 x blanks cut

like the way the machine he uses cuts the key when it was new and not from the wear on the key

thks again mate
 
Actually USED the disco this weekend at a campsite working party day.
Didnt get the picture of it towing a trailer loaded 10ft high with tree prunings, but we did manage to find 5 minutes to take a photo of the three discoveries that took part in the day. Who needs a site tractor when you've got these?:

CH Service Landrovers - Copy.jpg

Pretty much the full range of spec levels. The one on the left is a TD5 "Adventurer" spec 7 seater with air suspension. Middle is a more basic spec TD5 5 seater on coils. And then on the right is a 300tdi D1 with a long list of mods. The two on the right both have straight through exhausts - so you can hear them coming a mile away.
 
Not so much on the Disco, but I do keep a 12 volt "jump pack" and I try to keep it charged so that it'll be there if I need it. There's no way it would turn over the engine by itself, but by leaving it connected to the vehicle battery for a short while it should give it that extra little bit.
The problem was keeping it charged, so I thought "Solar panels" but that was the rock upon which I perished. It was OK in the beginning but over time, especially in the winter I found that it was discharging through the panel more than it was charging and in the summer, it was over-chharging. The result was a knackered battery.
So I decided to look again at the set-up, first I'd need a panel, OK, got that. Then a lead-acid gel battery, 20Ah would fit in the jump pack, OK, got that too. Then I addressed the problems of over and under charging and found a nice little controller to do the job.

p.jpg

It switches off the charging when the volts across the panel drops below 12 volts and also if the voltage exceeds 14.7 volts. So it should just allow the battery to trickle charge with no ill effects. I hope. It also has a small digital voltmeter to help keep an eye on things.

The solar panel is on the roof of the shed and the jump pack is on a shelf in there with the controller right alongside it.
 
Hi Brian, did the panel not have a diode in it to stop the battery discharge? It would be nice if the panel glowed when it was happening.....!
Where did the controller come from - it looks like it's a DIN rail mounting jobbie?
 
brian47 said:
Not so much on the Disco, but I do keep a 12 volt "jump pack" and I try to keep it charged so that it'll be there if I need it. There's no way it would turn over the engine by itself, but by leaving it connected to the vehicle battery for a short while it should give it that extra little bit.
The problem was keeping it charged, so I thought "Solar panels" but that was the rock upon which I perished. It was OK in the beginning but over time, especially in the winter I found that it was discharging through the panel more than it was charging and in the summer, it was over-chharging. The result was a knackered battery.
So I decided to look again at the set-up, first I'd need a panel, OK, got that. Then a lead-acid gel battery, 20Ah would fit in the jump pack, OK, got that too. Then I addressed the problems of over and under charging and found a nice little controller to do the job.

It switches off the charging when the volts across the panel drops below 12 volts and also if the voltage exceeds 14.7 volts. So it should just allow the battery to trickle charge with no ill effects. I hope. It also has a small digital voltmeter to help keep an eye on things.

The solar panel is on the roof of the shed and the jump pack is on a shelf in there with the controller right alongside it.
Click to expand...

looks like a great solution

talking about other things treated myself to a basic clamp meter ,

IMG_0883.JPG
 
gstuart said:
looks like a great solution

talking about other things treated myself to a basic clamp meter ,

View attachment 115840
Click to expand...

Those Uni-T meters are the only clamp meters which claim that they can measure DC amps with the clamp. I don't know how, I've not investigated it, it might be an internal oscillator or something, but other than that I can't get my head around the idea.
I did get myself one of those Uni-T two years or so ago, but whenever I need a meter, I keep forgetting about it and reach for the old DVM I've had for years.
I've still got my old faithful AVO model 8, but that hardly sees the light of day these days.
 
The Disco has just done its good deed for the day. Sat doing paperwork and get a phone call "Are you in Bath this evening"? Always a leading question and rarely an invite to go for a pint.

Turns out a friend's clutch cable snapped whilst turning around on an awkward slope on a narrow residential road. Essentially couldnt roll backwards as that would mean rolling up a steep hill. And couldnt roll forwards as he'd hit other cars and end up in the middle of the road.

One lesson learned - the hook on my "small" tow rope (I decided the heavy duty long strap was excessive to tow a Saxo) doesnt fit around the front towing eye on the disco.

Now time for a quiet microwave ready meal before heading off to a meeting.
 
brian47 said:
Those Uni-T meters are the only clamp meters which claim that they can measure DC amps with the clamp. I don't know how, I've not investigated it, it might be an internal oscillator or something, but other than that I can't get my head around the idea.
I did get myself one of those Uni-T two years or so ago, but whenever I need a meter, I keep forgetting about it and reach for the old DVM I've had for years.
I've still got my old faithful AVO model 8, but that hardly sees the light of day these days.
Click to expand...

still got my other meters

to be honest i'm not aware of how they are able to measure dc amps

will be at some stage fitting my curtain airbags , seeing i can't use any form of multimeter on the them due to the possibility of activating i thought the clamp meter was the best way to go

daft question but is there a special reason why normal clamp meters are unable to detect and measure dc amps please

was this something to do with the hall effect

IMG_0300.JPG
 
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