Other what have u done on ur disco today

Bleed nipple on top? That's the way the old one was in.

adrianhartopp said:

Bleed nipple on top? That's the way the old one was in.

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Sounds good and not facing downhill.....

Cheers

A two hour wash and polish, and then off to the local pub a 46 mile return trip, and it rained on the return.

Heard a strange rattle / tinkling this morning, when I gave the handbrake a slight tug it disappeared for a brief moment.

Got home and pulled the transmission brake drum off and found these wee beggars floating about inside..... refitted and all is good, not sure what made them want to make an escape for it though??


Cheers

took spare wheel carrier off, welded the cracks, primed and top coated it, 2 new tyres on the rear, GG AT3's,

The list?

sorted one of my front headlights condensation issues, for now.

made up new oil lines from the autobox to the cooler (replaced the original flexible ends with a 12mm brass compression fitting, into 5/8ths male hose barb on both ends and fitted them to the box)

fitted aftermarket oil cooler for the autobox - need to sort out a fitting for the oil temp warning light/gauge now)

whilst there, full autobox oil change, and new filter, gasket from jgs

new mintex rear discs and pads, with new calipers and replaced with good carriers and new pins both sides.


all in all a very productive day.

Just two little jobs and a couple of hours today.

Replaced the "solar load" sensor for the climate control. Manual test shows FC 00 - success! It was really a bit easy to do, just pry the thing out, get the connector off and then refit with the new sensor.

Second job, Fitted the switches for the Cruise Control. All-in-all a pretty straightforward job. I didn't disconnect the battery, but since the vehicle had been standing all last night I was fairly confident that I could do the job just by pulling the fuse F35 on the main fuse board to disconnect the power to the DCU and SRS system.
The binnacle switch was simply pull the old blank and fit the switch. The steering column switches were just a pain to get the hole opened up, not so much regarding the location, but the size. Anyway all went in OK and the driver's airbag went back with no trouble.

I relocated my ECT and EGT gauges on a A pillar pod( actually that was yesterday)... don't be scared of the windscreen, i traversed deep mud untill my cottage and i'm not gonna wash it untill i get out of here in few days

sierrafery said:

I relocated my ECT and EGT gauges on a A pillar pod( actually that was yesterday)... don't be scared of the windscreen, i traversed deep mud untill my cottage and i'm not gonna wash it untill i get out of here in few days
View attachment 147146

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Hi

That looks nice and neat as always

may i ask out of curiosity please, where a turbo actuator arm is controlled electronically instead of vacuum controlled , where would a turbo pressure gauge pick a signal up from, would it be via the MAF sensor plse

yeh i know need to get out more, lol

many thks

Hi, no, the MAF is on the intake, but what kind of turbo gauge you are thinking of? cos the ''classic'' ones are working with real pressure so they dont pick up a "signal", they are connected with a pipe directly to a boost source like let's say the inlet manifold.... though why would you want such thing on your vehicle especially as you have the IID tool?

sierrafery said:

Hi, no, the MAF is on the intake, but what kind of turbo gauge you are thinking of? cos the ''classic'' ones are working with real pressure so they dont pick up a "signal", they are connected with a pipe directly to a boost source like let's say the inlet manifold.... though why would you want such thing on your vehicle especially as you have the IID tool?

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hi, apologises was at cross purposes and doesn’t take to much for me to get confused, lol

indeed , wouldnt req one fitted due to having the iid

Turned the climate to “Lo” and to no great surprise did not get last summer’s icy blast from the vents... so booked in for a recharge on Saturday.

Fixed the broken pipe from top of rad to expansion tank.

washed it, cleaned windows. nuff done to it.

**** WARNING**** TD5 D2.

Be careful of that little pipe that runs from the top of the rad to the expansion tank, it gets very brittle over time and snapped like a dry twig..

Cheers

Orderd a new injector wiring harness after getting a misfire when giving it a bootfull plugged in me hawk eye and got fault codes relating to
Injector 1/2/3/5 intermittent open circuit

The harness is about 18months/2 years old at most I do however consider this a serviceable part this will be the first time changing it in my ownership. Not even going to check for oil at the ecu end.

More to the point, "What haven't you done to your Disco today".

I decided to replace the auxiliary belt tensioner, replaced the belt a few months back but there's still a bit of a screech on start-up occasonally.
I got everything off, fan guard, viscous fan, aux belt, well off as far as was needed, then came unbolting the single bolt holding the tensioner to the front of the engine block.
That was the rock upon which I perished! There must be a whole load of suitable words in the vocabulary of "Advanced Workshop" to cover the situation.
A 15 mm socket was required, not a standard socket, got plenty of them, but to get into the hole it had to be a "thin wall" 15 mm socket.
So it was a case of put it all back together and treat it as a "rehearsal" for when I get a proper socket.

brian47 said:

More to the point, "What haven't you done to your Disco today".

I decided to replace the auxiliary belt tensioner, replaced the belt a few months back but there's still a bit of a screech on start-up occasonally.
I got everything off, fan guard, viscous fan, aux belt, well off as far as was needed, then came unbolting the single bolt holding the tensioner to the front of the engine block.
That was the rock upon which I perished! There must be a whole load of suitable words in the vocabulary of "Advanced Workshop" to cover the situation.
A 15 mm socket was required, not a standard socket, got plenty of them, but to get into the hole it had to be a "thin wall" 15 mm socket.
So it was a case of put it all back together and treat it as a "rehearsal" for when I get a proper socket.

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Well at least you know it all comes apart easy for the next time.....LOL.

Good point though, next time I am in there I will check to see what fits on mine and if I have one.

Cheers

neilly said:

Well at least you know it all comes apart easy for the next time.....LOL.

Good point though, next time I am in there I will check to see what fits on mine and if I have one.

Cheers

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It's a good thing that I've done a bit more digging into this issue before going off to that well known hardware shop to get another socket.
Having had a look at a picture of the bolt, it's now obvious that a Torx type multi-point socket is required so I wouldn't have had one anyway.
So the next pproblem is how to get hold of a socket and where from. I might even have to buy a bolt which I can take with me to buy a socket. The part number of the bolt is PYG10006:-

Hi Brian,

brian47 said:

It's a good thing that I've done a bit more digging into this issue before going off to that well known hardware shop to get another socket.

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Give me a minute or two and I can go check if one of mine out of the halford box fits.

Cheers

I just bought some of these from ebay for £6.49.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Female-T...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I got them mainly for the bolts holding the seats down. But haven't used them yet.

neilly said:

Hi Brian,

Give me a minute or two and I can go check if one of mine out of the halford box fits.

Cheers

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I've emailed Bearmach, seeing as that's where I got the tensioner from. I'll see what they say.