What do my fault codes mean?

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clivesP38

clivesP38

Active Member
Posts
179
OK, got around to looking at my RR, does anyone have an insight as to what these mean? Is it one fault causing several fault codes?

3 : F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : Cannot lower FR
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden

Also dash is reading alternator fault and it has had a new one and is charging ok, how do I get rid of this message?
 
Should have added that sometimes/most times I go out in her she goes to the correct hight selected but at some point WILL throw a paddy and all four lights on the suspension switch will flash, at the same time the message 'EAS fault' comes up on the dash and it goes to it highest setting. The flashing on the switch stops after a short time and all four lights remain lit. When stopped you can see it changing levels.
 
You have some conflicting readings here - the valves can't be open and closed!

I think the people who know about this sort of thing (they will be along shortly) will tell you means something like your code reader isn't communicating properly with the car. What code reader are you using?

3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
........
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed


Pete
 
Got the software and lead from Datatek last year. Seem to remember reading valves can't be open and closed at the same time, pressure switch?! can't quite remember but know someone here will have a good starting point for me!
 
clivesP38 said:
OK, got around to looking at my RR, does anyone have an insight as to what these mean? Is it one fault causing several fault codes?

3 : F8:8_Hidden
4 : RL signal incorrect
5 : F8:32_Hidden
6 : RR signal incorrect
7 : F8:128_Hidden
0 : Engine speed fault
3 : Pressure signal constantly low
4 : Air supply fault
5 : Air supply leak
6 : Target heights incorrect
7 : Vehicle has moved
1 : Cannot lower FR
3 : Cannot lower RR
4 : FA:16_Hidden
5 : FA:32_Hidden
6 : FA:64_Hidden
7 : FA:128_Hidden
0 : FL valve stuck open
1 : FR valve stuck open
3 : RR valve stuck open
4 : Inlet valve stuck open
5 : Exhaust valve stuck open
6 : FB:64_Hidden
7 : FB:128_Hidden
2 : RL valve stuck closed
3 : RR valve stuck closed
4 : Inlet valve stuck closed
5 : Exhaust valve stuck closed
6 : FC:64_Hidden
7 : FC:128_Hidden

Also dash is reading alternator fault and it has had a new one and is charging ok, how do I get rid of this message?
Click to expand...
Those faults mean you have not established communication with the EAS ECU.
If the dash say's alternator fault and it is actually charging, either there is a bad connection on the D+ line from the alternator to the BECM, or there is a BECM fault. Most probably the former. Cure the problem and the message will go away.
 
Sounds like driver pack is playing up I used to get alternator fault until I checkedy battery it had a dead cell , changed battery never said it again
 
Datatek said:
What has a driver pack got to do with the battery or alternator?
Click to expand...
As I explained I had a dead cell in the battery
It was only holding 47 percent on most start ups I got alternator fault changed battery and it never came back that's the alternator bit.

Driver pack lights throwing a wobbly and going to the highest setting
Could be driver pack!
 
Saint.V8 said:
Nowt to do with the driver pack imo - bad comms is all it is!
Click to expand...

Bad comms with what he's eas software I'm on about this when he went out in it

clivesP38 said:
Should have added that sometimes/most times I go out in her she goes to the correct hight selected but at some point WILL throw a paddy and all four lights on the suspension switch will flash, at the same time the message 'EAS fault' comes up on the dash and it goes to it highest setting. The flashing on the switch stops after a short time and all four lights remain lit. When stopped you can see it changing levels.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you to one and all. I know the battery is ok as I changed the alternator and battery together, so probably a bad connector but I did check the BCEM connections last year, just wondered if it may be something else. I will do a continuity check on the D wire in case there is a break in it. I will check the comms port number matches and try again.
 
Comm port numbers are matched and driver updated, so thinking USB adapter is cheap chinese crap and needs replacing?? Yes I know most things come from china, but some of you will understand what I mean!
 
clivesP38 said:
Comm port numbers are matched and driver updated, so thinking USB adapter is cheap chinese crap and needs replacing?? Yes I know most things come from china, but some of you will understand what I mean!
Click to expand...
Not just coom port number but you may also need to adjust baud rates, delays and all the other slider thingys....in saying that, I never had to adjust mine....plug and play - and my USB/Serial was about 8 years old!
 
Ok, my 2pence worth

I have had my EAS throwing a fit in the past even though I had no leaks and a good compressor, caused by 2 things, so ….

1 check the white plug behind the trim panel in the passenger side footwell mine was corroded bad :-( I ended up removing it!
2 drilled some vent holes in the EAS box lid, seems a lot on here have done this and seems to be doing the trick
 
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