Datatek
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Easier to just redo the shims if the clutch is slipping.
What did you do with your Range Rover today
- Thread starter Dopey
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Hi mark yer mines a 1999 the copper pipes are rusty but there seems to be a short flexi aswell I don't know but I'm sure someone will advise I've I could do away with that copper bits
brianp38dse
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Your looking at about an afternoon to do them, i may well be at a loose end on friday if you want a hand.
brianp38dse
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Pete you have the later set up same as mine using the pipes i posted a pic off, i am trying to get some proper measurements and some more pipe then i could make you up a set to fit.
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Them shock look a of good stuff I'm replacing mine eventually will av a look I've I don't go with originals
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That be good Brian I've you can make them up cheers
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Just been having a look. Damned if I can see an easy way to get them out. The rears go above the chassis. I cannot see exactly where they go but they seem to bend around about the top of the airbags.
Datatek
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On post 99 cars the pipes are clipped to the body before the body is mated to the chassis, it's very difficult to get the pipe that goes above the rear cross member out unless the clips are rusted away as was the case on mine. I modified the route putting the pipe back so I could secure the pipe. I also sheathed the pipe in nylon air line for protection.
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Yes, this looks the same. There's a join under the driver's A-post or thereabouts. It goes down the drivers side, around the full filler pipe, vent and flap-cable, across the car above the frame that holds the suspension then curves down to the centre of the axle where it has a couple of flexis. Breaking it into 2 or 3 sections might be possible. I get the feeling RAVE would recommend taking tge body off!
brianp38dse
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I am sure we can do it, i managed to unclip mine from the body and thread the new ones back in, i can give you a hand tomorrow if you wish just let me know. i can bring my bits and bobs with me.
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Well, if you're game then let's go for it. Looks a total barsteward to me. Been staring and thinking for 2 hours now. Don't want to start and then get stuck with a 2 ton lawn ornament.
I've even thought about slackening the body bolts and wondering if there is enough slack to lift the rear half of the body a bit to improve access.
Datatek
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Sounds like yours is easier, mine went right across and the flexi is just inboard of the wheel arch from body to chassis and another flexi I think from chassis to caliper.
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- Buckinghamshire, UK. ('95 DT)
Yes, I can see where mine goes above the chassis. Brian seems to think he can wriggle it in and out so I will let him take a look and see what he thinks. It is too damn hot today anyway. I have to have a sit down after lying under it with my legs in full sun.
Oddly enough, I cannot find any links to anyone who has taken the body off a P38. That seems to imply it isn't that easy.
RangeRoller dt
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I am sure you are right. It just doesn't seem to have a way in or out, unless you bend and pull the pipes about and hope they don't kink. Guess we'll find out tomorrow!
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Watching your post grrrr with hopeful results got to do mine
Worked on the electrics for the second battery yesterday. The fuse box broke, kind of my fault to buy cheap stuff... Finished the wiring as far I could, installed the speakers in the front doors on wood mountings and ordered all the new wiring stuff I need. The new shocks arrived, so the next couple weekends won't be idle! Can't drive it anyway now, the front seats are being refurbished!
Blew the aux fuse again, without touching anything. Replaced it, the aux circuit was still dead. Until it started working by its own again out of the blue... One day I might tackle the wiring, one day...
Blew the aux fuse again, without touching anything. Replaced it, the aux circuit was still dead. Until it started working by its own again out of the blue... One day I might tackle the wiring, one day...
If you intend to do the pipe over the rear axle, don't be fooled into thinking you can make it a perfect pattern and then thread it through, the route it has to take will mean it has to be pulled and twisted to get it from one side to the other. Therefore I would make it up up-close enough and then be prepared that it won't come out the other end exactly as it should be ( if that makes sense). Once it's through from one side to the other you then have to get your hands in above the chassis and make sure the pipe isn't kinked and that it is clipped in to the original brackets (you may break one or two taking the old one out) the mistake not to make, is to have brake pipe loose or rubbing against any metal work. That's where the MOT failures will come and you will cause the pipe to scrape and damage. It can all be done, it just takes time and be prepared to make mistakes on the way.
Remember these pipes were laid in above the chassis before the bodies were dropped on in the factory. So some bright spark at Land Rover never thought they would have to replace them in the future...cheers guys.
