What did you do with your Range Rover today

tomcat59alan said:

Backed the bugger down the drive so I could paint the garage front,only the house front and the back of the garage to do then it's done,until SHE finds something else. It's like being back in the Forces, if it moves salute,if it doesn't paint it if its shines put it in your pocket.

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Unless we get some rain soon she'll have you painting the grass.

RangeRoller dt said:

Checked my battery after standing few weeks.
12.55v off, 13.88 on tickover.

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You wouldn't be playing with your new DVM would you by any chance..?

Opened the door and got cooked..

Closed it again...

Grass has turned brown, and so have I

Looked into the fault on my d/s rear numberplate light, the result of which is a new number plate light tailgate switch unit ordered, the bulb holder assembly beyond repair

Bought some new front poly bushes for the anti roll bar, the soft blue kind

And a pair of new new rear shockers.

Got round to finishing the FIP timing, modulation was very high and someone had been at the FIP mounting flange with a punch but had obviously failed.
Settled for modulation at a tad over 50% with coolant at 90C. PITA of a job.
The car has always started when cold but rough for a second or two, I thought glow plugs, but apart from the broken one the rest were OK and look fairly new. Hot start was a nightmare. Now cold start is instant and smooth, not been anywhere yet, but hot start seems OK too, time will tell

Bagshot said:

You wouldn't be playing with your new DVM would you by any chance..?

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Yes I’ve been reading up bit. Turns out operating them is a piece of pie, diagnosing with the information they supply is quite an interesting art form. Even the simple stuff can save so much work
All this wizardry talk about 12.5/14.5v from a 12v battery you’ve all been drilling into me for past few years suddenly makes sense

ARB bushes are knoclking..

Turns out they're looser than Elton Johns back porch..

Well had her off on a few tracks I had the disco2 on. Didn't break it. Found out inpa and all that I have for bmw will do all my engine abs and air suspension ews and so on that's handy.
Got another car so she had a tow jobby again and then took my towbar off and got it all cleaned up and a new bolt easy to put on if I want to

kermit_rr said:

It sounded like an old man getting up off the floor lol

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That's it that's me every time I get up. Our lass loves it ,keeps her laughing for ages

brianp38dse said:

i dont mind making them up for you and giving a hand its the bleeding i am more concerned about, on mine i made a couple of blanks which i swapped quick so i lost very little ran all the new stuff then did a quick swap over and let it gravity bleed so the block should be air free and easier to do the rave bit.

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This evening I rummaged around until I found the pipe, flare tool and pipe cutter.

Question: how much pipe did you use? Trying to work out if I would have enough.

Grrrrrr said:

This evening I rummaged around until I found the pipe, flare tool and pipe cutter.

Question: how much pipe did you use? Trying to work out if I would have enough.

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The two main ones i measured up as 90" drivers side and 155" pass side and the two others about 15 " each.
Assuming yours is the latter set up with the short flexis body to chassis either side and not the two longer ones by the diff.
Looks like its a full 25 foot coil needed with a little left over.

Took me frigging ages to get the thing started yesterday. Turn the key click, that's all just click, try again, unlock just in case the immobiliser is playing silly buggers, nothing, click. Click.. argh!!
Then after about 15 mins moved it from the great it was in, to N and fired up straight away!!

kermit_rr said:

Took me frigging ages to get the thing started yesterday. Turn the key click, that's all just click, try again, unlock just in case the immobiliser is playing silly buggers, nothing, click. Click.. argh!!
Then after about 15 mins moved it from the great it was in, to N and fired up straight away!!

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Been there, done that. Was half way to pulling most of the electrical system out when I sat in the passenger seat for a fag and just happened to look down.

brianp38dse said:

The two main ones i measured up as 90" drivers side and 155" pass side and the two others about 15 " each.
Assuming yours is the latter set up with the short flexis body to chassis either side and not the two longer ones by the diff.
Looks like its a full 25 foot coil needed with a little left over.

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Cheers.

Mine's a '95 with single exhaust. Pipes go across the axle rather than behind the fuel tank.

I have a little less than 25' of pipe. The little less where I cut a bit off to test the flaring tool!

Grrrrrr said:

Cheers.

Mine's a '95 with single exhaust. Pipes go across the axle rather than behind the fuel tank.

I have a little less than 25' of pipe. The little less where I cut a bit off to test the flaring tool!

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You may well have enough i would do one one at a time only cutting off the roll when one end is connected if you know what i mean, how far are you from Chinnor , Bedlow as i am out that way today working.

Do rears first they are usually worst

Tips..: when you've made up a flare.
A) Don't forget to put the fitting on FIRST.!!!
B) Put a bit of tape over the end straight away before any crap goes down the pipe. If you start threading these things through gaps in the chassis and body, they eventually catch somewhere and scrape s### into the pipe.
C) If you haven't got a bending took..(who has..?) Bend the pipe over a large socket or broom handle, don't just try to bend it..it will kink..!!

Ask him how he knows

RangeRoller dt said:

Ask him how he knows

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Threw away more pipe than I fitted at the end..