What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Kev12 said:
I think even the wind blowing the wrong way can upset LR's ecectronics :)

It doesn't help to have one more thing to be second guessing about. I noticed last week I couldn't reset the airbag light on my BMW because the battery was a bit low
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I'll stick the new battery in before I start piddling about undoing panels and checking connections at the weekend. Ta.
 
marjon said:
I wonder if cars with plastic tanks suffer with the new E numbers in the fuel like some bikes do? (Well I know Ducati’s do) These E numbers can really mess with plastics/rubber.



I know, just couldn’t resist :D looks good btw. And probably still as good as new inside.

J
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Plastic tank in the p38. No issues yet. Mind you, there's time yet.
 
Some while ago I was having a right mare with a rubbing/grinding noise from under the rear of Buttercup. Stopped when I refurbed and readjusted the handbrake so thought I had found and fixed it.
After a couple of months the noise came back again and this time when I pulled up I got underneath and everything was good except the nose of the rear diff was a bit warm. Getting under properly I could see that the mudshield was loose so undid the input thingy and put the mudshield to one side, at the same time I squirted some Molyslip into the bearing as best I could.
I did start a thread about it hoping that it would be an easy job to replace the bearings, turns out it is a major arse so sort of trying not to do it.
Have now run for 2 months with no repeat of noise, so hoping thats solved it, I will replace the input thingy (it's late and I can't remember the name) with a new one.
 
Datatek said:
If it's a MY99 car with the passive coil round the ignition key barrel, it either re-synced when the key was put in the ignition or you pressed a FOB button. Either way it was not the door lock micro switches.
If you can gain access to a Nanocom, you can turn off the EKA feature and the immobiliser, you can then use the car with just the key if necessary.
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Tried all the FOB pressing stuff when trying to re sync it back in January. Went through all the different syncing fault finding things and even replaced the battery's in the FOB. Nothing worked.
When I was having some work done last year at the only land rover specialst in Crimea (the land Rover Dealership pulled out when the Russians took over in 2014) I asked them about a Nanocom to turn off some stuff and no chance.
 
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frog hopper said:
Some while ago I was having a right mare with a rubbing/grinding noise from under the rear of Buttercup. Stopped when I refurbed and readjusted the handbrake so thought I had found and fixed it.
After a couple of months the noise came back again and this time when I pulled up I got underneath and everything was good except the nose of the rear diff was a bit warm. Getting under properly I could see that the mudshield was loose so undid the input thingy and put the mudshield to one side, at the same time I squirted some Molyslip into the bearing as best I could.
I did start a thread about it hoping that it would be an easy job to replace the bearings, turns out it is a major arse so sort of trying not to do it.
Have now run for 2 months with no repeat of noise, so hoping thats solved it, I will replace the input thingy (it's late and I can't remember the name) with a new one.
Click to expand...

It's connected to the thingamabob.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Don't know but as soon as I plug the Nanocom in it powers up and I can go into EAS menu. It can be a bit of a pain because if I then start the car I have to come out and go back in again.
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You can go to the EAS menu, but I'd bet you cannot communicate or do anything with the EAS until the ignition is on.
 
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