What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Bit of a story but a good ending.
Back in January one day away from parking the beast up for the usual 10 -14 month stasis as I need to go away to work to afford to feed the 4.6. I was at my local market in Crimea when I came back to the beast for a beep beep beep engine immobilised. Oh bugger you and went to enter the EKA code as I know it so well as I used it every year on start up after the usual 10 month off battery shut down. However this time no joy, Bugger. Came to this site and researched and became convinced it was the door lock assembly micro switch. Good on Mozz Smith for giving assistance but to no avail it was the gremlins.
Had the Beast evacuated to my parking space not 200 mtrs away and jacked it up and put it on axel stands to protect the tyres and suspension for the time away as usual.
10 months later I am due to travel back to Crimea and got in touch with Rimmer Bros as they have the part but not for my VIN number on the website. Gave them a call and spoke to a bloke called Rodger I think or George hey ho they were great I gave him the Beasts vin and a short time later he came back with the part number and the cost.
So after sacrificing my first born child for the cost of the part the part was on its way. I picked the part up in UK and brought it back here to Russia.
Went to my parking space to find the usual curtesy of Russian drivers who had parked too close for comfort so without scratching the prats door managed to remove and replace the door lock assembly and given all the bars and linkages and many curse words got it done. What a bloody mission that was (this is where members chime in of the easy way to do it) So the new part is fitted, re connect the battery and beep beep beep no lights on the dash. No problem says I. I have an auto assist battery jump starter that I have had on charge since yesterday for just such a thing. Schoolboy error at home connected to the mains it said fully charged not so in real life.
Battery in this thing is fooked. New jump assist is 12000 rubels so I stripped it down and inside its basically a bike battey so for 3200 rubels bought a bike battery.
Re built the battery assist, clamped it to the beast and put the key in the ignition.
This is where the magic happens.
The dash lights up, not brightly but lights up with no Beep Beep and no engine immobilised so just turned the key and the engine cranked not overly fast but kept hold of the key in the belief the beast would start as I thought this jumper is a one shot deal and it fired and ran...……..yeah go the beast. not having run for months just ran and no EKA code. Yea go the beast the lovely pain in the arse P38.
 
Gunnerhavesome said:
Bit of a story but a good ending.
Back in January one day away from parking the beast up for the usual 10 -14 month stasis as I need to go away to work to afford to feed the 4.6. I was at my local market in Crimea when I came back to the beast for a beep beep beep engine immobilised. Oh bugger you and went to enter the EKA code as I know it so well as I used it every year on start up after the usual 10 month off battery shut down. However this time no joy, Bugger. Came to this site and researched and became convinced it was the door lock assembly micro switch. Good on Mozz Smith for giving assistance but to no avail it was the gremlins.
Had the Beast evacuated to my parking space not 200 mtrs away and jacked it up and put it on axel stands to protect the tyres and suspension for the time away as usual.
10 months later I am due to travel back to Crimea and got in touch with Rimmer Bros as they have the part but not for my VIN number on the website. Gave them a call and spoke to a bloke called Rodger I think or George hey ho they were great I gave him the Beasts vin and a short time later he came back with the part number and the cost.
So after sacrificing my first born child for the cost of the part the part was on its way. I picked the part up in UK and brought it back here to Russia.
Went to my parking space to find the usual curtesy of Russian drivers who had parked too close for comfort so without scratching the prats door managed to remove and replace the door lock assembly and given all the bars and linkages and many curse words got it done. What a bloody mission that was (this is where members chime in of the easy way to do it) So the new part is fitted, re connect the battery and beep beep beep no lights on the dash. No problem says I. I have an auto assist battery jump starter that I have had on charge since yesterday for just such a thing. Schoolboy error at home connected to the mains it said fully charged not so in real life.
Battery in this thing is fooked. New jump assist is 12000 rubels so I stripped it down and inside its basically a bike battey so for 3200 rubels bought a bike battery.
Re built the battery assist, clamped it to the beast and put the key in the ignition.
This is where the magic happens.
The dash lights up, not brightly but lights up with no Beep Beep and no engine immobilised so just turned the key and the engine cranked not overly fast but kept hold of the key in the belief the beast would start as I thought this jumper is a one shot deal and it fired and ran...……..yeah go the beast. not having run for months just ran and no EKA code. Yea go the beast the lovely pain in the arse P38.
Click to expand...
So your original problem was almost certainly low battery voltage and you sacrificed your first born for nothing:(
 
No, My problem was the micro switches in the door, When the issue happened it had been happening randomly for a few weeks and sometimes took 3 or 4 times for the EKA to be accepted and whilst driving the door locks would cycle. I checked the battery and it was fine at the time I even then attached the auto assist just in case, Also only the drivers door would open. I have been using the key to open the door for about 6 years as the RF lead is disconnected due to the flat battery syndrome. All doors now opening and guessing the 10 months of battery disconnection cleared the memory. However a little strange in that this time it did just start and not say engine immobilised as it has in the past.
 
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hef19898 said:
Dropped of the old lady at JLR today (the only garage willing to touch her, go figure).

Positive surprises:

They are willing to replace the front propshaft with the one I bought (the bolts are just impossible to remove, so...).

They seemed happy to be able to work on an old one, also the oil leaks are perfectly ok including the oil cooler one which doesn't to be too bad after all. With one exception which brings us to...

Bad surprises:

The rear axle is leaking on the brake disc due to a bad gasket.

The fuel tank is rusted through.

The brakes are loosing brake fluid.

The shocks are shot (but I already knew that).

So, all of the bad surprises have to be done now and cannot be done on my drive ay, at least not by me. Shock and springs can wait, but the rest...

Neutral news: Costs excluding the tank issue and including an new Jag XE for the time being will by around 900 Euro, rather reasonable considering a free garage fleeced my parents for 750 for two springs and the TÜV last week. At least it helps telling me that...
Click to expand...

I am not a fan of plastic but I will say that a plastic fuel tank has advantages. I had an old Scirrocco and the fuel tank rusted inside and flakes would jam in the fuel line requiring me to preiodically stop inhthe arse-end of nowhere, disconnect the fuel line, blow down it until the blockage cleared and then reconnect and off again for 100 miles or so. Taking the tank out required undoing the rear subframe, iirc. Plastic doesn't do that!
 
Gunnerhavesome said:
Previously years ago it did come up with this and the P38 died but this time I just fitted a new door lock and the vehicle just works so I don't know why?
Click to expand...

Bit hard to see what the doorlock can do other than unlock it unless you put the EKA in. Unless it didn't realise it was unlocked? Bit of a long shot as even if it thought the door was permanently open or closed it would still start.
 
Same as my Series II it rusted away causing lots of problems, so a friend made me a stainless steel one nice and thick mettle as well, one of the best things I did
 
lol tank..
tank.jpg
 
Grrrrrr said:
I am not a fan of plastic but I will say that a plastic fuel tank has advantages. I had an old Scirrocco and the fuel tank rusted inside and flakes would jam in the fuel line requiring me to preiodically stop inhthe arse-end of nowhere, disconnect the fuel line, blow down it until the blockage cleared and then reconnect and off again for 100 miles or so. Taking the tank out required undoing the rear subframe, iirc. Plastic doesn't do that!
Click to expand...

I wonder if cars with plastic tanks suffer with the new E numbers in the fuel like some bikes do? (Well I know Ducati’s do) These E numbers can really mess with plastics/rubber.

Dopey said:
lol tank..View attachment 192828
Click to expand...

I know, just couldn’t resist :D looks good btw. And probably still as good as new inside.

J
 
Gunnerhavesome said:
Previously years ago it did come up with this and the P38 died but this time I just fitted a new door lock and the vehicle just works so I don't know why?
Click to expand...
If it's a MY99 car with the passive coil round the ignition key barrel, it either re-synced when the key was put in the ignition or you pressed a FOB button. Either way it was not the door lock micro switches.
If you can gain access to a Nanocom, you can turn off the EKA feature and the immobiliser, you can then use the car with just the key if necessary.
 
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