What did you do with your Range Rover today

So went out today and looked at her
She wasn’t sitting right que Eas fault from yesterday.
Oh well here we go let’s see what she says.
Unlock,open door, key in, close door, start and wait.
She wobbles down then up and a look at the lights none flashing no alarms <)
Now to try and find out why my Bosch diagnostics won’t boot up

No skinned knuckles in the garage today got to be good

OH went to the shop for beer and fags. By fu*k it sounds nice

kurtjohnson10 said:

Hi
I do have one availible if required , though i cannot seem to open my private messages for some reason. It just keeps coming up server error

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Whole site has been in meltdown for days. Where's the on/off button?

Grrrrrr said:

Whole site has been in meltdown for days. Where's the on/off button?

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i just thought it was my 386 pc finally on meltdown lol

kurtjohnson10 said:

i just thought it was my 386 pc finally on meltdown lol

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Oooh another one with a working 386 Still running XP on line and Win 3.11 off line for PCB design but rarely these days.

Datatek said:

Oooh another one with a working 386 Still running XP on line and Win 3.11 off line for PCB design but rarely these days.

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my theory is if its not broke do not try fixing it

Is it just me or are other people's messages stuck spinning for ages then when you finally see them you have doubled up? A visual echo hahaha

Wazzajnr said:

If the motor is spinning but not pushing the piston it's not the motor, it's the grub screw loose in the crank.
If a dc motor commutator is worn it will have little effect on the torque until such time its worn through so much that it can't carry enough current. Then the motor will stall and fry itself

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Ah ok, well I can't put the brushes back in now - what a crap, nasty design. You need to have magic fingers made of spaghetti. Does anyone have any tricks to actually put them back in and place the pcb back properly, which won't fit because you have to drill / cut out the rivets....

Grrrrrr said:

The arm is held on by a grub screw accessible through the allen screw in the housing on the side.

Or talk to @kurtjohnson10 as he has one in the For Sale section.

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Thanks. I'll check that when I get back. It was very tight so I didn't want to round out the hole. I'll wait until I get a standard Allen key set (I work with Americans a lot - if I say imperial they have no idea what I'm on about!)

I've got a 286 and an amiga 500 still going lol

tanis8472 said:

I've got an amiga 500 still going lol

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need any spares?

Did 650 miles without a hitch, 27.7mpg @ 60mph for most of the way. Some tosser nicked my GB badge off the back while I had a coffee...

Took her for a spin, washed the bird doings off her and just enjoyed her

Nothing at all....
Saving for a intank pump...

Did a 200 mile drive around the lake district including a run over Arnside intake BOAT.
That's an awesome byway.

tanis8472 said:

Did a 200 mile drive around the lake district including a run over Arnside intake BOAT.
That's an awesome byway.

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Beautiful area. There are some absolutely lovely roads and BOATs. I need to get back up there at some stage.

Mukiwa said:

Ah ok, well I can't put the brushes back in now - what a crap, nasty design. You need to have magic fingers made of spaghetti. Does anyone have any tricks to actually put them back in and place the pcb back properly, which won't fit because you have to drill / cut out the rivets....

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Ah, if you're careful you can lever up the edges of those rivets and then prise the PCB up without drilling. Then you push it gently back down, tap the heads back flat and it'll be good.

Brushes. You should be able to pull them back, hook the wire over the metal housing just enough to hold them in place, put the top back on and then lift one side slightly, unhook the wire and the brush pops into place. Then the same the other side. Then screw the top back down.

Nothing today, as it's raining, but my order of Williams cleaning kit arrived this morning. So next dry day , it's cleaning time.

Had a drive along another 2 BOAT's today. Fantastic roads.

Towed a friends Discovery 3 up to Old Forge Garage to have its manual gear change linkage fixed (not feeling up to laying under it to fix it for him myself).

Grrrrrr said:

Ah, if you're careful you can lever up the edges of those rivets and then prise the PCB up without drilling. Then you push it gently back down, tap the heads back flat and it'll be good.

Brushes. You should be able to pull them back, hook the wire over the metal housing just enough to hold them in place, put the top back on and then lift one side slightly, unhook the wire and the brush pops into place. Then the same the other side. Then screw the top back down.

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Thanks Grrrrrr, too late though, I cut the rivets and boy is that magnet powerful. The copper has a groove about 10mm deep into it from the brushes. Can that be repaired?

Oh and I found my front Hardy-Spicer up against the transfer box has movement, I'll check the rear prop uj's tomorrow. How long roughly does it take if all goes well? I did read your other post so I'm prepared!

Mukiwa said:

Thanks Grrrrrr, too late though, I cut the rivets and boy is that magnet powerful. The copper has a groove about 10mm deep into it from the brushes. Can that be repaired?

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Sure someone could but I couldn't!

Mukiwa said:

Oh and I found my front Hardy-Spicer up against the transfer box has movement, I'll check the rear prop uj's tomorrow. How long roughly does it take if all goes well? I did read your other post so I'm prepared!

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Well, 5 minutes to jack and support, 10 minutes to get the prop off (with the prop socket and someone to pull the handbrake on and off). After that it depends how easily the circlips come out. 1/2 hour if it is being nice. All bl**dy day if it is being a sod. Then 10 minutes getting it back on and 5 minutes to drop it back down.