What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Went to overhaul the front brake calipers this morning as one had seized. Turned into a proper ball ache as a previous owner had rounded off the caliper mounting bolts, the bleed nipple was rounded off, the disk had a lip preventing the pads from sliding off easily and finally the piston wouldn't budge with and air line or when I put it back on the car.

I thought the piston popped out when I pumped the brakes but turns out it hadn't..... bet I've burst a seal some where.... bastard
 
Finally got the dash back together, of course I tried putting the steering wheel shrouds back on in the wrong order and while faffing about trying to manouver the panel over the pedals back into place I stressed and broke the side/headlamp switch. :mad::( New one on order from paddocks.
Wont make much difference at the mo as it's only got to drive 1/4 hour on friday to deliver to the sprayer for a colour change.
In prep for this I struggled to get off the rear side vent body panels which will remain black, biggest problem was being attacked by wasps while doing it. Found 3 small wasp nests under the panels.
Door cards off tomorrow to take the outer door handle trims off for the sprayer, and then friday a day helping him with the prepping. Might change the front screen as I have a spare and the old one has loads of stone chips.
 
Tightened the turbo rod? How? Why? Possible pitfalls?

Undid the 10mm lock nut and wound the rod in a turn.

It sits in the boost spike longer and feels more pokey still have a tiny bit of black smoke but not a cloud like before. Next would be a manual boost controller so there's not so much difference between spike and settled boost.

Downfalls more boost = more heat. Obviously not much at such a tiny increase not needing to be as heavy on the throttle as before
 
Grr, do you have a mig welder?

The last person near my sump plug was me, would it move.....would it heck. So I welded a blob onto it then welded nut to blob.
5lbs of pressure later sump bolt is out.
Any bolt can be extracted thus.
 
Undid the 10mm lock nut and wound the rod in a turn.

It sits in the boost spike longer and feels more pokey still have a tiny bit of black smoke but not a cloud like before. Next would be a manual boost controller so there's not so much difference between spike and settled boost.

Downfalls more boost = more heat. Obviously not much at such a tiny increase not needing to be as heavy on the throttle as before

Maybe you should have looked at why you have black smoke in the first place, have you considered cleaning out the intercooler and the MAP sensor?
 
Undid the 10mm lock nut and wound the rod in a turn.

It sits in the boost spike longer and feels more pokey still have a tiny bit of black smoke but not a cloud like before. Next would be a manual boost controller so there's not so much difference between spike and settled boost.

Downfalls more boost = more heat. Obviously not much at such a tiny increase not needing to be as heavy on the throttle as before

You need to get your big crayon set out explaining this to me. First turbo engine I have dealt with. You're talking about the waste-gate actuator rod?

Hmmm. More heat doesn't sound good. IMO these engines in the Range Rover are already close to their limit in dumping the heat. On the other hand, wonder if general wear may mean mine isn't giving as much boost as it used to?

Manual boost. Something like this?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/RANGE-ROVER-...0b39a9015&clk_rvr_id=1240637628008&rmvSB=true
 
You need to get your big crayon set out explaining this to me. First turbo engine I have dealt with. You're talking about the waste-gate actuator rod?

Hmmm. More heat doesn't sound good. IMO these engines in the Range Rover are already close to their limit in dumping the heat. On the other hand, wonder if general wear may mean mine isn't giving as much boost as it used to?

Manual boost. Something like this?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/RANGE-ROVER-...0b39a9015&clk_rvr_id=1240637628008&rmvSB=true

Don't start playing mate. Chip it if you must 175 BHP and the same torque as the 4.0 litre petrol is not bad when you consider it. The motor can be run at over 200 BHP in some BMW cars but not in a P38, Totally different torque and power characteristics are needed to push along a 2.25 ton 4 X 4 that may from time to time be pull another 3.4 tons.
 
Generally speaking, the ones running at 200bhp plus will just be moving the peak of the torque curve higher up the rev range.
In a heavy car (especially a manual) you want the torque as low down as you can get it.
 
Generally speaking, the ones running at 200bhp plus will just be moving the peak of the torque curve higher up the rev range.
In a heavy car (especially a manual) you want the torque as low down as you can get it.

Running that sort of power in a P38 would entail more visits to the fuel station and cause many mechanical problems. BHP and torque is not free unfortunately despite what the tuning companies may tell you.
 
Running that sort of power in a P38 would entail more visits to the fuel station and cause many mechanical problems. BHP and torque is not free unfortunately despite what the tuning companies may tell you.
My point exactly. Since forays into tuning during my teens, I very quickly concluded that unless you want a track car, it's much better to have a car that gives the performance you require in stock mode then make sure it's actually giving said performance.
If you want quick in a range rover, you need v8 and deep pockets. But in all honesty, if you want quick, a range rover is the wrong vehicle. (unless you can afford a supercharged one!)
 
My point exactly. Since forays into tuning during my teens, I very quickly concluded that unless you want a track car, it's much better to have a car that gives the performance you require in stock mode then make sure it's actually giving said performance.
If you want quick in a range rover, you need v8 and deep pockets. But in all honesty, if you want quick, a range rover is the wrong vehicle. (unless you can afford a supercharged one!)

Yep horses for courses. That is why Kevin buys a Corsa then spends hundreds making it just sound fast and use more fuel. It's a stupidity factor inbuilt in a lot of people. ;)
 
Maybe you should have looked at why you have black smoke in the first place, have you considered cleaning out the intercooler and the MAP sensor?
black smokes with the box on it. Dosent smoke it the box isn't on it.
I'm not after a 200bhp lump.
I'm well aware it's a huge motor and the 2.5 diesel isn't a rocket ship.
With the big intercooler that's already on it its probably just compensated for the size of it.

All pipes and inlet and everything had been cleared out.

Without the tuning box on it it didn't black smoke

With the box on it did.
My intention and fiddling was to reduce that a touch and it did.
 
black smokes with the box on it. Dosent smoke it the box isn't on it.
I'm not after a 200bhp lump.
I'm well aware it's a huge motor and the 2.5 diesel isn't a rocket ship.
With the big intercooler that's already on it its probably just compensated for the size of it.

All pipes and inlet and everything had been cleared out.

Without the tuning box on it it didn't black smoke

With the box on it did.
My intention and fiddling was to reduce that a touch and it did.
You just cannot sit still can you, if it ain't broken fix it till it is.:D:D
 
Don't start playing mate. Chip it if you must 175 BHP and the same torque as the 4.0 litre petrol is not bad when you consider it. The motor can be run at over 200 BHP in some BMW cars but not in a P38, Totally different torque and power characteristics are needed to push along a 2.25 ton 4 X 4 that may from time to time be pull another 3.4 tons.

I won't be fiddling with mine. I keep mine stock. I'm not bright enough to do otherwise. Other than the alternator set point on the recommendation of you and Tomcat.
 
Drilled out the bastard clutch housing bolt that had sheared off. Flywheel off (note the nifty flywheel locking tool courtesy of a house radiator bracket and a bolt and a few nuts plus a grinder), sump off and rocker cover off just so I can replace all gaskets. Just waiting for parts now.

Looks like gearbox is either leaking from the adapter plate or maybe the sensor thingy. New o-rings ordered for the adapter plate.

Oh, and that damn breather filter thingy off the rocker cover. Pipe has well and truly had it. Seems to be 20mm inner diameter but it will have to have a hell of a bend in it. Ideas?
 

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