Welding PAS pipes?

congo181

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519

Location

Maidstone, Kent, U.K.

• Sep 28, 2021

• #1

One of my PAS pipes has a leak where the bracket is on the front cross member.
Has anyone ever tried welding these pipes?
I’m not even sure what they’re made of…

 

H

Hicap phill

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16,319

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Wiltshire

• Sep 28, 2021

• #2

Which 1 is damaged?
Pressured / unpressured

 

L

lynall

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Kent

• Sep 28, 2021

• #3

If its steel, you can braze them, will most likely be to thin for mag or mig.

 

tottot

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west wales coast

• Sep 28, 2021

• #4

The oil remains within will contaminate the weld, not worth the trouble.

 

Flossie

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Shropshire

• Sep 28, 2021

• #5

I extended my pipe for a 200tdi conversation using an off the shelf compression straight, think it was 10mm? So you could use one of them either side of the leak and chop the split bit out joining with a new bit of 10mm tube.

 

Beneagles

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North Perthshire

• Sep 28, 2021

• #6

Flossie said:

I extended my pipe for a 200tdi conversation using an off the shelf compression straight, think it was 10mm? So you could use one of them either side of the leak and chop the split bit out joining with a new bit of 10mm tube.

Click to expand...

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congo181

Well-Known Member

Posts

519

Location

Maidstone, Kent, U.K.

• Sep 28, 2021

• #7

Hicap phill said:

Which 1 is damaged?
Pressured / unpressured

Click to expand...

I think it’s the bottom one from how it came out but I’m not 100% sure. Not at home right now but I’ll check. Be interesting to try and fix it.

 

freelance

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essex and beyond

• Sep 28, 2021

• #8

Brazing or joiner, will repair, or just replace

 

Disco1BFG

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6,316

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Buxton

• Sep 29, 2021

• #9

IMO, the only welding process which stands any chance would be TIG, preferably TIG brazing ...., then Brazing ..

Possibly the easiest way is to use a proper, correctly sized compression fitting... which is what I did on my AT cooler pipes, despite having TIG.

 

congo181

Well-Known Member

Posts

519

Location

Maidstone, Kent, U.K.

• Oct 3, 2021

• #10

Well the pipe looks too far gone to be worth saving. Luckily the original part number label is still on it as I’ve been struggling to find the correct looking part on the online diagrams, but NTC5001 looks correct.

 

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