waxoyl

waxoyl

how much will i need fer a 110
black or clear ?
how do i put it on
cheers

high pressure jet -

how thick yu gonna put it on?
inside and outside - or just inside chassis?
Inside door and wing panels or just chassis?

how longs ya bit of string?

as much as yu need.

whats wrong with old engine oil !!!!!

its a bit messy (and sum peeps say its acidic).

I've been taking the bodywork off me 110 today to get at the bits that need welding. The bits that have been waxoyled are no less rusty than the parts that haven't been treated. The small area behind the engine and around the gearbox that has some leaked oil on is in 1st class condition, no rust at all. One area that I'd say has benefitted from waxoyl is inside the chassis. When I chopped the arse end off to fit the new x member the inside of the chassis is mint, like new, and the residue of waxoyl is still there. Don't think it's much good for the outside where the water etc is battering it all the time though.

The problem with waxoyl is that it covers up the rust, and it's still there. People often waxoyl them before selling them to cover up the bad bits. I'm no rust expert, but if you just cover the rust up it's still going to be there, eating away at your beloved...

When I bough my 90 it hadn't been done yet so I saw everything underneath and it was like new (it hadn't been off road, poor thing it is now!). Simmonite's did it for me straight away before I picked it up and there's still lashings of the stuff on.

I think you still need to maintain it and re-apply as it will scrape off over rocks etc, leaving vulnerable bits... Also, it tends to melt a bit on a hot day and go really gloopy and will probably come off easier. As for durability, mine gets pressure-washed underneath quite often and the stuff won't budge.

Rust is the stuff that's left over when the iron and the oxygen in the air react, it doesn't actually "eat" the iron - it's the ash left when the fire has burned and is relatively inert. Problem is its rough and tends to grip the things that encourage rust.

What Waxoyl does is try to provide an airtight barrier between the iron and the air, which means the oxygen in it isn't there to react and cause the rust. If you apply waxoyl to the rust, coz it's rough, there's a danger that you might be locking air (or water) inside this barrier, which will encourage the reaction.

The most important thing with the chassis is to prevent water (especially water with chemicals in it, which speeds up the reaction - like salt) clinging to it, so apply waxoyl to the inside of the chassis when it is clean but give the outside a really good wash with clean (un soaped) water, getting to all the bits where the mud clings on.

Best bet of course is to provide something sacrificial to rust instead, like zinc, so if poss get galvy which will last forever, but failing that a zinc rich paint will do the trick. Trewey posted a link to some really good stuff the other day!