Wastegate actuator TD5 Defender

By two turns.

At that point it was difficult to tell if there was any improvement. It might have had more torque, but l cannot be sure.
It was no faster up the test hill.

Then my local LR specialist told me they'd tried altering the wastegate on Defenders and it had the opposite effect, so l gave up and put it back to standard.

lightning said:

By two turns.

At that point it was difficult to tell if there was any improvement. It might have had more torque, but l cannot be sure.
It was no faster up the test hill.

Then my local LR specialist told me they'd tried altering the wastegate on Defenders and it had the opposite effect, so l gave up and put it back to standard.

Click to expand...

I think you have to sit back and consider what you are actually changing when you move the waste gate rod.
The pressure generated by the turbo is a product of the amount of exhaust gas passing through the hot side impeller, this is changed by engine rpm and the accelerator position (diesel injected ), the waste gate opening diverts the hot gas flow away from the impeller to limit the force applied and therefore controls the max speed of the impeller.
what happens is you change the point when the gate opens and the turbo pressure peaks.
Simply moving the Wast gate rod lets the turbo run on and produce pressure a higher pressure before peaking.
This will not turn up the engine power curve at all rpm, it will give more boost at maximum before the gate opens and boost pressure will hit a plateau.

As i said in a previous post you can increase the boost on defender with a manual boost controller which restricts the pressure to the actuator valve and leave the rod alone, but as raywin confirmed too more boost might not make it run faster just run better and give better response on lower revs

Thanks for all the advice. I realise that l was mistaken in my ideas about how the wastegate works on a Defender.
I ended up leaving the wastegate at the standard setting and getting it remapped. This caused various issues with white/grey/black smoke so l had it reset at the main dealer.
Now it runs better than ever, obviously slower without the remap installed but smoother and more lively than it was before it was remapped.
And no smoke at all!
Not sure what to do about the remap now though.
I can get it re-installed but if the smoke comes back (huge clouds of white/grey smoke when flooring it after driving normally for a while) l am in for another £125 at the main dealer to get it reset again.

lightning said:

Thanks for all the advice. I realise that l was mistaken in my ideas about how the wastegate works on a Defender.
I ended up leaving the wastegate at the standard setting and getting it remapped. This caused various issues with white/grey/black smoke so l had it reset at the main dealer.
Now it runs better than ever, obviously slower without the remap installed but smoother and more lively than it was before it was remapped.
And no smoke at all!
Not sure what to do about the remap now though.
I can get it re-installed but if the smoke comes back (huge clouds of white/grey smoke when flooring it after driving normally for a while) l am in for another £125 at the main dealer to get it reset again.

Click to expand...

Who mapped it? Chances are you will get smoke, I had a touch of black smoke when changing gear that all went when I fitted a full size intercooler.

Before a remap a complete diagnose and maintainance is compulsory... a log af live data readings to see if ALL the sensors are working well, new crankcase breather(depression controll) valve if it's old, cleaning the EGR(if still fitted) the intercooler and inlet manifold/MAP sensor...then if all the readings are 100% OK the remap can be done... if there is only one sensor reading out of limits or a partial fault which migt not affect much the driveability on a standard map it's involvment will be increased by a remap and then smoke or other things might occur... and the quality/reliability of the remap is important off course

I did all of those things, except crankcase breather?

I consider that valve a kinda long term service item(let's say 30-40K miles) cos it's a plastic valve exposed to hot and oily gasses and even if it works it's loosing qualities in time then a disbalanced depression in the crankcase can cause all kind of trouble... i replaced mine twice in around 80K miles and the old ones worked, they were'nt blocked but i felt an improvement in emmision and driveability with the new ones both times though i've seen cases when they were blocked closed and there was lots of smoke then and increased EGT

This dohickey?

that's the little bastid, if you change it let me know your impression please

Hmmm interesting. Never actually knew what that was, soon as pay day comes around I'll buy a new one. See if anything changes

That's what it does:
"Crankcase emission control
......
The breather valve is a depression limiting valve which progressively closes as engine speed increases, thereby
limiting the depression in the crankcase. The valve is of moulded plastic construction and has a port on the underside
which plugs into a port in the flexible air intake duct. A port on the side of the breather valve connects to the camshaft
cover port by means of a breather hose which is constructed from a heavy-duty braided rubber hose which is held in
place by hose clips. A corrugated plastic sleeve is used to give further protection to the breather hose. The breather
valve is orientation sensitive, and “TOP” is marked on the upper surface to ensure it is mounted correctly.
It is important that the system is airtight so hose connections to ports should be checked and the condition of the
breather hose should be periodically inspected to ensure it is in good condition."
(EMISSION CONTROL - TD5 - 17-1-4 DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION)

Thanks, hmmmm interesting. What does that mean in real world terms?

in a nutshell what i've already said: if it's old replace it, i cant do other translation cos english is my third language