Vcu propshaft question

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Nodge68 said:
Before fitting anything to the vehicle. Make sure you drain the IRD and diff oil. Looking at the old oils will give you a good idea as to the condition of the unit the oil came from. The oils should be clean, although will darken with age. If the oils have a metallic sheen or look like metallic past, then the unit is question isn't suitable for use and needs rebuilding or replacing.
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Ye I'm gonna get under this weekend and have a look. Got the new expansion tank and cap fitted this evening.alot of gunge in cooling, but oil and cap is clean.maybe the engine was changed before that's why it has older style engine.
Gomna have to give a good flush before I fill with proper coolant
 
Check the pinion out of ird this evening for excessive play and was really none horizontal or other wise felt free for a 1/5 turn or so (car was on ground)
 
Jamiebirse said:
Check the pinion out of ird this evening for excessive play and was really none horizontal or other wise felt free for a 1/5 turn or so (car was on ground)
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1/5th of a turn of slack in the pinion gear is way to much. You should see 3 to 6 mm lash at the outer edge of the output. Much more than that suggests the crown wheel support bearings have collapsed, or are just about to collapse. Drain the oil and see what the oil looks like. I'm betting it'll look like metallic spray paint, mixed with oil.
Oh. And open the fill plug before removing the drain plug though, and only use a single hex socket on the plugs, as they're made of cheese.
 
Nodge68 said:
Before fitting anything to the vehicle. Make sure you drain the IRD and diff oil. Looking at the old oils will give you a good idea as to the condition of the unit the oil came from. The oils should be clean, although will darken with age. If the oils have a metallic sheen or look like metallic past, then the unit is question isn't suitable for use and needs rebuilding or replacing.
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Won't be emptying it completely over weekend but will let a drop out, I still need it mobile for the moment, has to be tested as soon as I get the windows in(needs three, have them in boot) and then is ready for test.
Bloody parts guy ordered wrong 1st gear switch have to wait another week for that
 
Ok things as the come clearer.
Got freelander up on lift and check the front ird Union and I have 4.5mm of play turning (marked and measured)
Oil is old but un contaminated
Rear diff seems to be a little damp behind the Union but not sure if that's just the road conditions at the moment
No major play in any direction with that either but have play in the mount
 
Jamiebirse said:
I have 4.5mm of play turning (marked and measured)
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That's an acceptable amount of lash in the gears.
Jamiebirse said:
Oil is old but un contaminated
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That's even better news.
Jamiebirse said:
Rear diff seems to be a little damp behind the Union but not sure if that's just the road conditions at the moment
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It's probably the the drive flange oil seal creeping slightly. If it's just a small bit of dampness, then it can be ignored for the time being. If it starts to drip, then a new seal will be needed. ;)


So now you need to make sure you have 4 identical tyres, then you'll be in a position to fit replacement propshafts and a good or reconditioned VCU.
 
Better news was that I got a identical alloys with brand new tyre on it as a spare for €40
Customer left it in 8 months ago and never came back for it he just wanted shot of it of garage floor .. Happy days
Yes the ird showed is a 4-5hr round-trip to collect.so won't be getting it this weekend anyway. He says it was bought of a landrover specialist and never got round to fitting it before he sold car.
 
I know the carrier bearings are a easy one to access, but is there any good solution to checking vcu on "the fly"
It's only €90 and I'm getting a set of alloys(5)
Rear gearbox mount I think
Front window reg repair kit
Rear boot blind and the props with bolts and all accessories
So it's surely worth even if vcu turns out duff
 
Jamiebirse said:
I know the carrier bearings are a easy one to access, but is there any good solution to checking vcu on "the fly"
It's only €90 and I'm getting a set of alloys(5)
Rear gearbox mount I think
Front window reg repair kit
Rear boot blind and the props with bolts and all accessories
So it's surely worth even if vcu turns out duff
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If you mean bench test it then put couple of big screwdrivers either side in the knuckles and try to turn it. If you can without popping a blood vessel it might be OK but best do the one wheel up test after fitting to be sure. If not then a refurb is essential before fitting or you'll end up stranded with a broken transmission.
 
Alibro said:
If you mean bench test it then put couple of big screwdrivers either side in the knuckles and try to turn it. If you can without popping a blood vessel it might be OK but best do the one wheel up test after fitting to be sure. If not then a refurb is essential before fitting or you'll end up stranded with a broken transmission.
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some repairers do the OWUT mounted on a bench.... 1 Metre bar and 5K???
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
some repairers do the OWUT mounted on a bench.... 1 Metre bar and 5K???
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If you know what time a good VCU will give that would be fine but I don't. I know I can turn a good one fairly easily with a crow bar but that won't help the OP much.
He'd be VERY lucky to get a good VCU so most likely it will need refurbed.
 
I'd use the propshafts and refurbish the VCU, just in case .

I'm doing mine this year, so will do a write-up as it'll be using a different method to the other DIY methods I've seen.
 
Jamiebirse said:
So it's if it doesn't turn then it's duff. What if it turns really easy?
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Not very likely unless it has been damaged and all the fluid has leaked.
Jamiebirse said:
So u can refurbish rather than buy new? I knew the bearings could be replaced but I thought once a vcu went that was it
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Lots of good stuff here.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/how-to-recondition-a-vcu-yourself.307445/
and here
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/diy-vcu-service.252957/
 
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