Vcu propshaft question

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Jamiebirse

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65
Location
Ireland
Is a 2007 diesel freelander Propshaft the same as a k series 1.8 petrol?
And would anyone know the size and diameter bolts I would need to put it back on(bolts from it are missing)
 
There's no prop in the freelander was going to put back in after a check of the ird and rear transfer, no point having a 4x4 if its not 4x4, plus it drives a bit crap, very wallowy, a bit giddy
 
Jamiebirse said:
There's no prop in the freelander was going to put back in after a check of the ird and rear transfer, no point having a 4x4 if its not 4x4, plus it drives a bit crap, very wallowy, a bit giddy
Click to expand...

You'll need to find a set of second hand propshafts and decent or new VCU.

The wallowing ride is the shocks, which are past there best after 60K miles.
 
Looking at your "Show us yer Freelander" post, that's an F1. Is it a 2007 car?

I believe prop shafts are interchangeable between all the Freelander 1 cars - but I may be wrong.

There are some differences between the VCUs on some models - some have dampers fitted, others not but they should be interchangeable. I believe the V6 VCU is a different unit - but I don't know why or if they are so different as to be not interchangeable with non-V6.

What ever if you get a replacement prop and VCU, you need to test the VCU - it will probably be knackered and you'll need a recon unit. There were a couple of threads about a month ago about the implications of reinstalling props - they went through all the info you need to know on whether it can be done and what might need replacing.
 
Will have a look at shocks over weekend see if any leaking, has to be tested soon so I will know then, or maybe not they will only show an imbalance not if there gone
Nodge68 said:
You'll need to find a set of second hand propshafts and decent or new VCU.

The wallowing ride is the shocks, which are past there best after 60K miles.
Click to expand...
 
GrumpyGel said:
Looking at your "Show us yer Freelander" post, that's an F1. Is it a 2007 car?

I believe prop shafts are interchangeable between all the Freelander 1 cars - but I may be wrong.

There are some differences between the VCUs on some models - some have dampers fitted, others not but they should be interchangeable. I believe the V6 VCU is a different unit - but I don't know why or if they are so different as to be not interchangeable with non-V6.

What ever if you get a replacement prop and VCU, you need to test the VCU - it will probably be knackered and you'll need a recon unit. There were a couple of threads about a month ago about the implications of reinstalling props - they went through all the info you need to know on whether it can be done and what might need replacing.
Click to expand...
My freelander is a 2005
 
Jamiebirse said:
The ird has a cooling system of it own? If so mine has been disconnected
Click to expand...
The IRD is plumbed into the cooling system. If it's been disconnected, then it's likely that the IRD cooler has a leak. I'd not worry about it, unless you're planning on visiting a desert, as the IRD normally runs cooler than the cooling system.
Jamiebirse said:
Perfect will source some new one then.
Click to expand...

Take the part numbers off the old shocks and find some matching replacements.
 
Perfect I have to get under it at the weekend anyway and I'll check. Have a bit of resonance out back coming off revs have to investigate
 
So your car has no props and the IRD has been disconnected from the cooling system.

And you think putting props on it will make it 4WD again?

I think you're hoping there. Sounds like this car has had some "issues" in the past which is why its now running 2WD.

You might be lucky, but looking less likely as more info comes to light.

At least as you only paid £175 for it, you have money left over for props, VCU, support bearings, IRD & diff!

When you get the props - make sure you get the nuts and bolts for it. You'll need the one to connect to the rear diff, ones for connecting to the IRD pinion (together with the plates they go through) and the 4 bolts for the VCU support bearings.
 
GrumpyGel said:
So your car has no props and the IRD has been disconnected from the cooling system.

And you think putting props on it will make it 4WD again?

I think you're hoping there. Sounds like this car has had some "issues" in the past which is why its now running 2WD.

You might be lucky, but looking less likely as more info comes to light.

At least as you only paid £175 for it, you have money left over for props, VCU, support bearings, IRD & diff!

When you get the props - make sure you get the nuts and bolts for it. You'll need the one to connect to the rear diff, ones for connecting to the IRD pinion (together with the plates they go through) and the 4 bolts for the VCU support bearings.
Click to expand...
I can see where u get ur user name from... ;)
Ye I "hope" to put it right, if they had no issues we wouldn't be having this conversation and I wouldn't of got it for the small money.
It's not an essential vehicle in house hold, iv a 16 plate vitara and 13 plate mini cooper for that.
It's nice to tinker and a tinker I'd be...
 
If you want to tinker then, I'd be reading up on the DIY VCU rebuilt threads - cos when you get props/VCU from a breakers you'll be wanting to do that rather than paying £250 for a recon. You'll quite likely need new support bearings though for the VCU.

You may like to wing it on the IRD, or you'll also be taking the rear pinion off to examine the crown & pinion gears to see if they are going to turn into $$$ rather than fun. Then you'll be ordering an IRD bearing kit (with cooler and seals) for about £150 rather than a £650 recon unit.... and brushing up on your bearing pushing/pulling skills.

You may like to wing it on the rear diff, or get the cover off and check its all OK.
 
Before fitting anything to the vehicle. Make sure you drain the IRD and diff oil. Looking at the old oils will give you a good idea as to the condition of the unit the oil came from. The oils should be clean, although will darken with age. If the oils have a metallic sheen or look like metallic past, then the unit is question isn't suitable for use and needs rebuilding or replacing.
 
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