Valve Block

Stage 1 So you have checked your compressor outlet good stage 2 check Diaphragm if all is ok but after waiting for tank to fill as long as you have checked pipe to it isn't leaking your have no choice but to investigate wammers stage 3
If you have done all the checks, your compressor is healthy, and you can detect no appreciable drop on a corner, but each morning or even if you have been parked a while, the EAS flashes for ages when you set off trying to get up to standard from an indicated low position with the compressor running. You have a problem with the NRVs. With the car up to height and engine off, with a door open. Wait a few mins for delay relay to do it's thing. Then remove exhaust filter and put your finger over outlet. If you have air coming out NRV1 is leaking air from tank. It's time to change the O rings on these little buggers. BUT. I have found the Red or Orange O rings you can get in the repair kit are very soft and fail over time. Specially if the small cone shaped guide nose on the NRV is worn. Remove red or Orange O rings and fit Black Nitrile ones problem solved. Red/Orange seem to be fine everywhere else, just too soft for NRVs.

Once he gets it up he can then check your last stage wammers if it is still going down doors open and wait for it to settle and recheck exhuast port

You have made it quiet simple really

Ok first thing in the am, I will check the compressor again, taking the pipe off the bottom and giving it a good fingering, meanwhile Im changing all the O rings on the new block, I have them so might as well change them (had them when I ordered the new diaphragm (think it was 2010) while I was striping it the solenoid (diaphragm one) looked smoky/dusty

If your going thru the prosses of renewing v/ block , might as well do dryer if your not sure how old it is.if yours is ok and that's the spare its up to you

dont know where to get the beads from, desiccant i think its called

Dopey said:

dont know where to get the beads from, desiccant i think its called

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Just buy a new dryer they are cheap.

The dust is where your square o ring seal on the 40 ohm coil has worn and the solenoid base on the 1mm solenoids have worn, thus allowing the dust to get through. A replacement of the square o-ring and the 1mm solenoid base o-rings should eliminate this.
Though if they have worn it usually means they all have, the 2.5mm solenoid is the key one, if the plunger in the solenoid has hardened then no amount of o-ring changes will stop you from getting a leak around it. The non return valves may also be worn on the block causing air to freely pass when it should be sealed.

Dopey said:

Ok first thing in the am, I will check the compressor again, taking the pipe off the bottom and giving it a good fingering, meanwhile Im changing all the O rings on the new block, I have them so might as well change them (had them when I ordered the new diaphragm (think it was 2010) while I was striping it the solenoid (diaphragm one) looked smoky/dusty

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That is desiccant from the drier you need to clean it all from the internals of the block. Slight moisture will make it form a crust on the solenoid end valve rubbers and could cause corner leaks. Is that the block from your car or the spare one you have? If it is the one you took from your car that could be your problem. Change your drier. If not make sure it is cleaned out properly before it is used.

Thats the original one I took out

Cant change the square O-ring (dont have one with the kit) will have to put silicone on it to seal it, gave it all a good clean as I go along and change them

Dopey said:

Thats the original one I took out

Cant change the square O-ring (dont have one with the kit) will have to put silicone on it to seal it, gave it all a good clean as I go along and change them

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Just clean it and put a little silicone grease on it NOT silicone sealant.

ok ta

Dopey said:

ok ta

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To be honest the other valve block you have looks to be in better condition than your old one. Maybe that is the one to do up and go with. Change your drier though or that will look like your old one PDQ. Think you may well find your compressor is U/S.

OK will take it off again, swap stuff over, cant see both the compressors being u/s.... but then again???

Dopey said:

OK will take it off again, swap stuff over, cant see both the compressors being u/s.... but then again???

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Well if they are not U/S you are losing air somewhere that's for sure.

Cant do it 2day, its ****ing down, I have man-flu already, so not going out in it, will find time 2morrow if its better

Dopey said:

Cant do it 2day, its ****ing down, I have man-flu already, so not going out in it, will find time 2morrow if its better

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Soft arse.

Its the pump, put my finger over it and a small amount of air only is coming though (on both of them) one is better than the other, so ordered a Teflon seal

RANGE ROVER P38 EAS AIR SUSPENSION COMPRESSOR PUMP SEAL | eBay

So will wait for that, swap it, and hope thats the problem, I will keep the new block in, and refurbish the old one anyway fingers XXXX

Dopey said:

Its the pump, put my finger over it and a small amount of air only is coming though (on both of them) one is better than the other, so ordered a Teflon seal

RANGE ROVER P38 EAS AIR SUSPENSION COMPRESSOR PUMP SEAL | eBay

So will wait for that, swap it, and hope thats the problem, I will keep the new block in, and refurbish the old one anyway fingers XXXX

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Nana na nana. Told you so. Thing is IF you bothered to read my "How to" it's the FIRST thing you should check for. SONG."Let's start at the very beginning,It's a very good place to start".

I can actually see the smug grin on your face from this side of my computer..... your right again!!!